1974 Kawasaki F7 175 Info Please... - Page 3

Euromad · 03-13-2012, 05:54 AM

Deer in the headlights

Buy her some of the blue nitrile gloves so the solvent and fuel doesn't wreck her skin. Women care about things like that. Glad to see it running.

jamescollins · 09-27-2012, 07:06 AM

I just got done ripping the engine apart on mine. Runs like a charm now. Glad none of the local shops would work on it, great learning experience. I do have a few probably simply questions. Is there anyway to make it less scary.. lol at high speeds it bounces and shakes way to much. Shocks? I know nothing. Help me!

cgk64 · 09-29-2012, 06:25 AM

I have a 71 f7 runs real good now, but I think I have a crank bearing going out. How hard of a job was it to tear into the motor, this will be a winter project for me. Thanks.

Euromad · 10-01-2012, 06:18 PM

You both should buy a Clymer's manual for your 175's- lots of questions answered.
The forks are very flexy and a fork brace will help a lot. fresh ATF fluid in them will help but they are crappy forks none the less.
New rear shocks will help the ride a lot. Make sure your wheel bearings and swingarm bushings are in good shape. Shake the wheels from side to side- any play and you need new bearings. Grab the swingarmat the rear wheel and move side to side. If there is play you need new bushings.
Tearing into one of these motors is pretty easy. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off- other wise a crancase splitter is nice too. Depends on how tool friendly you are.

jamescollins · 10-01-2012, 06:56 PM

Caution if pulling the flywheel off. I used a pulley and threaded the bolts in to much and broke the coils. Not very easy to replace. I wish I could have found out how to rewind them though. O well. Like I said just be carefull .and if its like mine you may have to heat it up to get it off

jamescollins · 10-01-2012, 07:00 PM

Also I looked at those sites for expansion chambers and couldn't find any for my bike and ebays fresh out

cgk64 · 10-01-2012, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Euromad

You both should buy a Clymer's manual for your 175's- lots of questions answered.
The forks are very flexy and a fork brace will help a lot. fresh ATF fluid in them will help but they are crappy forks none the less.
New rear shocks will help the ride a lot. Make sure your wheel bearings and swingarm bushings are in good shape. Shake the wheels from side to side- any play and you need new bearings. Grab the swingarmat the rear wheel and move side to side. If there is play you need new bushings.
Tearing into one of these motors is pretty easy. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off- other wise a crancase splitter is nice too. Depends on how tool friendly you are.

I've got a manual for it, I've never opened one up before. bike runs good just thinking down the road in case it may need some work. Thanks.

Dave in Wi · 10-06-2012, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamescollins

I just got done ripping the engine apart on mine. Runs like a charm now. Glad none of the local shops would work on it, great learning experience. I do have a few probably simply questions. Is there anyway to make it less scary.. lol at high speeds it bounces and shakes way to much. Shocks? I know nothing. Help me!

Back when I had mine, I could run it at top speed (80 or so indicated) with no problems, so what you are experiencing is not normal. Shaking could be an out of balance or out of round tire. It's pretty easy to mount a tire so it's not seated evenly all the way around which will make it shake quite a bit. Or loose spokes, head bearings, or loose swing arm bearings could also play a part.

jamescollins · 10-06-2012, 10:13 PM

Yea I get it up to like 60 but don't wanna kill it I also weigh 250 and am 6'4" so that may be it

baloneyskin daddy · 10-29-2012, 05:07 PM

I have a great friend who rode one of these in the early 70's and had a neat low pipe on it called a "Whispering Smith" I remember the name clearly and also remember rearending him on a big hill and sending the entire pipe flying up the hill about 30ft ahead of him.

sjc56 · 11-02-2012, 05:57 PM

I have a 73 and at 60 it also gets scary, but it doesn't want to go much faster it feels toped out. Time to recheck every thing.

Euromad · 11-03-2012, 08:20 AM

Check wheel bearings and swingarm bushings. Check the steering head bearings for play too. They all can cause a bad wobble.

jamescollins · 11-03-2012, 08:58 AM

It's not just wobble I have no power. I would never dream of even hittin 65

11-02-2012, 05:57 PM	#41
sjc56 Studly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2006 Location: Broad Brook CT USA Oddometer: 818	I have a 73 and at 60 it also gets scary, but it doesn't want to go much faster it feels toped out. Time to recheck every thing. __________________ Steve

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03-13-2012, 05:54 AM	#31
Euromad Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Lower Slobbovia Oddometer: 154	Deer in the headlights Buy her some of the blue nitrile gloves so the solvent and fuel doesn't wreck her skin. Women care about things like that. Glad to see it running.

09-27-2012, 07:06 AM	#32
jamescollins n00b Joined: Sep 2012 Oddometer: 6	I just got done ripping the engine apart on mine. Runs like a charm now. Glad none of the local shops would work on it, great learning experience. I do have a few probably simply questions. Is there anyway to make it less scary.. lol at high speeds it bounces and shakes way to much. Shocks? I know nothing. Help me!

09-29-2012, 06:25 AM	#33
cgk64 Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Oddometer: 26	I have a 71 f7 runs real good now, but I think I have a crank bearing going out. How hard of a job was it to tear into the motor, this will be a winter project for me. Thanks.

10-01-2012, 06:18 PM	#34
Euromad Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Lower Slobbovia Oddometer: 154	You both should buy a Clymer's manual for your 175's- lots of questions answered. The forks are very flexy and a fork brace will help a lot. fresh ATF fluid in them will help but they are crappy forks none the less. New rear shocks will help the ride a lot. Make sure your wheel bearings and swingarm bushings are in good shape. Shake the wheels from side to side- any play and you need new bearings. Grab the swingarmat the rear wheel and move side to side. If there is play you need new bushings. Tearing into one of these motors is pretty easy. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off- other wise a crancase splitter is nice too. Depends on how tool friendly you are.

10-01-2012, 06:56 PM	#35
jamescollins n00b Joined: Sep 2012 Oddometer: 6	Caution if pulling the flywheel off. I used a pulley and threaded the bolts in to much and broke the coils. Not very easy to replace. I wish I could have found out how to rewind them though. O well. Like I said just be carefull .and if its like mine you may have to heat it up to get it off

10-01-2012, 07:00 PM	#36
jamescollins n00b Joined: Sep 2012 Oddometer: 6	Also I looked at those sites for expansion chambers and couldn't find any for my bike and ebays fresh out

10-06-2012, 10:13 PM	#39
jamescollins n00b Joined: Sep 2012 Oddometer: 6	Yea I get it up to like 60 but don't wanna kill it I also weigh 250 and am 6'4" so that may be it

10-29-2012, 05:07 PM	#40
baloneyskin daddy bikaholic Joined: Oct 2009 Location: southcentral PA. Oddometer: 1,536	I have a great friend who rode one of these in the early 70's and had a neat low pipe on it called a "Whispering Smith" I remember the name clearly and also remember rearending him on a big hill and sending the entire pipe flying up the hill about 30ft ahead of him.

11-03-2012, 08:20 AM	#42
Euromad Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Lower Slobbovia Oddometer: 154	Check wheel bearings and swingarm bushings. Check the steering head bearings for play too. They all can cause a bad wobble.

11-03-2012, 08:58 AM	#43
jamescollins n00b Joined: Sep 2012 Oddometer: 6	It's not just wobble I have no power. I would never dream of even hittin 65