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Old 10-03-2012, 08:24 AM   #61
wirewrkr
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Wow Blaine that vinegar does in fact do an amazing job. I have a /6 tank with 15 year old gas in it that I need to resurrect, what particular variety of vinegar did you use? There are so many types.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:29 AM   #62
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Wow Blaine that vinegar does in fact do an amazing job. I have a /6 tank with 15 year old gas in it that I need to resurrect, what particular variety of vinegar did you use? There are so many types.
4 gallons of target brand generic stuff for around $2.50 a gallon.

Just pour in and soak for 2 days. Most people say 1 day but I didn't see results until after 30ish hours. I've still got a bit of crud in the bottom but the POR15 stuff should take care of the rest. I put no nuts/bolts/chains or anything in it to loosen the big stuff...it pretty much did that on it's own. The baking soda step is pretty important and fun too (it fizzles hehe.)

Also..if you have a sensitive nose (me!) it's probably one of the worst combination of smells I've had to deal with...it's still burned into my nose.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:57 AM   #63
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Living in Atlanta, for some stupid reason, I can't shut off my water main at the street with out some proprietary tool.
haha, i was walking the dogs some years back and stumbled across the fabled water shutoff tool laying in the middle of the street. took it home and it has come in handy many times in water emergencies. perhaps we can start making and selling our own on the underground, ha.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:03 AM   #64
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haha, i was walking the dogs some years back and stumbled across the fabled water shutoff tool laying in the middle of the street. took it home and it has come in handy many times in water emergencies. perhaps we can start making and selling our own on the underground, ha.
No kidding. They really aren't that hard to weld up.
*side note: I need to order the toaster shirt now :)
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:15 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
4 gallons of target brand generic stuff for around $2.50 a gallon.

Just pour in and soak for 2 days. Most people say 1 day but I didn't see results until after 30ish hours. I've still got a bit of crud in the bottom but the POR15 stuff should take care of the rest. I put no nuts/bolts/chains or anything in it to loosen the big stuff...it pretty much did that on it's own. The baking soda step is pretty important and fun too (it fizzles hehe.)

Also..if you have a sensitive nose (me!) it's probably one of the worst combination of smells I've had to deal with...it's still burned into my nose.
By the way I use vinegar and baking soda to clean drains in the shower. Works like a charm if you do it right.
Pour in the baking soda first, then the vinegar. Works every time.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #66
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By the way I use vinegar and baking soda to clean drains in the shower. Works like a charm if you do it right.
Pour in the baking soda first, then the vinegar. Works every time.
Nice!
Who needs these fancy, overpriced, specialized chemicals!?

Wait till you see the carbs after my pinesol clean. I'll post that later.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:52 PM   #67
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Did you also get the funky weird black fuzz on the opening of the tank where the fumes were reacting with the air?

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Old 10-03-2012, 07:37 PM   #68
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I use white vinegar on a lot of rusty parts.I have never had the black fuzzy sooty looking stuff.Another thing that works is citric acid and water.About 1/2 cup per 2 gallons of distilled water.Let set 24 hours and check it.

This stuff goes a long way.I know some people that use this in a sterlite tub from Lowe's as a parts cleaner/soaker.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:32 PM   #69
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This didn't merit a new thread...

What do y'all use to remove ridiculously baked on and aged gaskets? The razor blade isn't getting down far enough. It just gets the big chunks off and if I'm not careful, it will cut the aluminum. I know for the timing cover I can tape some fine sand paper to a flat surface and run it on that but what about the engine block side that's still in the chassis with all the components still on.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:38 PM   #70
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Just went through the same thing removing gaskets from my toaster project. I found a razor and Goo Gone were all I needed. Coat the gasket remnants with Goo Gone, let soak for 5 minutes, scrape at 45 degrees with the razor. Repeat if necessary. The bad ones took three passes.

Nice project, keep it coming! My wife's cousin is in Atlanta - I might need to head down that way when my toaster is done!
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:41 PM   #71
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Way to go Blaine!
Oooh a late 73 with long wheel base! Best of the best!
Right on.
Huh, nice to hear. I have a late 73 LWB too, but I've heard people prefer the quicker handling of the SWB versions.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:50 PM   #72
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Use a small putty knife or paint scraper.....not as sharp as a razor blade. Sometimes you can sharpen these tools by running them over some 120 grit paper laid flat on glass. Works for me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:07 PM   #73
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i like to heat them with a torch a bit and then scrape with a paint scraper. the heat makes them a bit more pliable and less stiff.


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Use a small putty knife or paint scraper.....not as sharp as a razor blade. Sometimes you can sharpen these tools by running them over some 120 grit paper laid flat on glass. Works for me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:48 PM   #74
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Huh, nice to hear. I have a late 73 LWB too, but I've heard people prefer the quicker handling of the SWB versions.
You know, my brother has the SWB version of my bike and I actually get a little uneasy with it. The seat and euro bars have me feeling like I'm hovering or looming over the bike and for some reason it feels a bit squirrely in anything that's not a corner. Might just be because I'm so use to the r90 feeling like its almost on rails.

I'll find a putty knife and some too gone tomorrow!
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:55 PM   #75
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I've found that the gel type paint stripper works well. I just paint it on carefully with an acid brush, and then scrape it off with a stiff putty knife. Go on, git it!
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