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Old 09-13-2012, 10:58 AM   #61
Monday
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Really enjoying your story and pictures. Thanks for taking the time!
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #62
bokad OP
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10 September 2012
--------------
Manado, Sulawesi

Just a quick update from the present.

The last week has been action packed!

I met up with some bikers from Jakarta and we rode the pleasant 2000km across Sulawesi together. They have local chapters in most of the major cities so every night was interesting and brotherly. And sometimes filled with karaoke.
Ate horse soup (tastes good, feel funny afterwards)
Discovered a not so bad $3k Chinese cruiser called a Ruby.
Got stuck in the sand on the equator.
Survived almost solely on fish and rice.
Posed for a million pictures.
Happened to stay in a hotel hosting a beauty contest (what luck!) and met Miss Indonesia.


Bikers from Jakarta


Horse soup


2000km across Sulawesi


Surprise, it's fish!


Kaisar Ruby. $3k Chinese cruiser.


The boys in Parepare


Ural beach equator porn


More fish and rice


Posing for pictures 100 times a day. I may not be the tallest man on Sulawesi but it sure feels like it!


Miss Indonesia (not the best photo of her to be fair)
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:15 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monday View Post
Really enjoying your story and pictures. Thanks for taking the time!
Thanks! Glad to know you enjoy.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:24 AM   #64
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8 July 2012
--------------
Dili, East Timor (Timor Leste)

Even in a gated compound I wake up to the noise of curious monkeys mounting my steed. They just can't help themselves!
I don't so much mind the sitting but I hate the bouncing, knob turning, switch changing, wire touching.
I bang on the window and they skitter away.



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Old 09-29-2012, 06:26 AM   #65
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9 July 2012
--------------
Dili, East Timor (Timor Leste)

There is an art collective here (Arte Moris). It's kinda like a hippie student camp in a dilapidated compound. The line between scultupre and garbage is blurred. It's hard to tell when one ends and the other begins. Abandoned vehicles serve as canvas, workshop, and bed room. We're free to wander around and no one pays much attention to us. I like that. The artists are friendly. Some of the works are interesting. I buy something.


Entrance to Arte Morris


I think Ural blends in nicely.


I requested my own ape paint job but the man was gone for the day.


Love it


Exhibition halls need some love. And a new roof.


Is scary when you look up and see this. I don't like spiders.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:51 AM   #66
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10 July 2012
--------------
Dili East Timor to Kupang, Timor

A few pictures from Anna on the trip out of Timor.


The road is lovely when it runs along the coast. Heart and spirit soar when driving it. Feeling of freedom.


Just had to pose with the hole in the road.


Just had to pose with the hole in the road.
Pondering if the Ural should 'accidentally' roll over.


Peasant house.


And fields.


And people.
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:42 PM   #67
Flachlandtiroler
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I very much enjoy reading this RR every time, you’re not really going to let that bike roll over into the sea, are you?

I think this




isn't a chicken donut, it strongly resembles a Dutch puff cake, filled with cream, called a “Bossche bol” or a “Moorkop”:




which would not be very surprising as Indonesia was once a Dutch colony.Maybe someone swapped the cards.

Good luck with your great ride!
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:39 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flachlandtiroler View Post
isn't a chicken donut, it strongly resembles a Dutch puff cake, filled with cream, called a “Bossche bol” or a “Moorkop”:
I can't say for sure as I didn't try it but the card definitely says chicken donut. And given some of the other strange combinations I've seen here I wouldn't be surprised if it was!

Glad you enjoy the report. I'm way way way behind schedule. Half way across Borneo now and almost to Sumatra.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:07 AM   #69
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10 July 2012
--------------
East Timor to Kupang, Timor
The day has come to return to Indonesia.
I'm not excited about it but it's not possible to drive in any other direction.
The gas stations are all out of gas.
The Ural front brakes fail going down a hill.
The cloud has returned.

Gas stations without gas is pretty common and entrepreneurs are always ready to fill the gap. 10% markup of course. Run the station out of gas then sell it at a profit to those that need it you see? I don't mind the markup actually but I feel that the fuel isn't pure. Feels like they are padding their profits by mixing it with something cheaper.

Crossing in to Indonesia the roads get much better and it takes time for driving style and speed to adjust. Just like it took time to slow down once we were in East Timor. Better too slow in Indonesia than too fast in East Timor though.


If the station doesn't have fuel plenty of entrepreneurs do.


If the station doesn't have fuel plenty of entrepreneurs do.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:08 AM   #70
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11 July 2012
--------------
Kupang, Timor

I don't know why exactly, it's not rational, but Indonesia is stressful to both of us and a strain on our relationship. We feel it as soon as we return.
It's been a long day. Failed brakes, congested roads. We're dirty, tired, and trying to find a hotel.
We're having a discussion (this means argument and probably my fault) at the side of the road and a guy stops his scooter a few feet away (still in traffic of course) to gape at us dimly. We wait for him to leave. He keeps staring. Doesn't approach, doesn't say anything, just stares. It would have been outwardly obvious that we were having a moment and needed some privacy but he just sits and stares. We motion for him to go away. He stares. I shout at him to go away. He stares. Anna shouts at him. He stares. I get a bit more aggressive and loud with motions and words, the international 'I'm going to punch you in the face if you don't F off'. He stares. Finally I fire up the bike, mount it standing up and hanging off the side, rev it high, and fly towards him. Suddenly he understood and took off mighty quick. I'm glad. The Ural doesn't stop very quick and I didn't actually want to run him over. Immediately I feel regret. I don't want to be that kind of person. I've just reached that point though. Tired of all the staring, shouting, stalking, touching, running off the road. Tired of all the unwanted attention. How can you explain the feeling that builds over a month? Being shouted at and harassed dozens of times a day every day for weeks on end until you cringe at the thought of walking down the street and don't even want to leave you hotel to eat. I don't know what it is. Mostly with the young (<20) males but sometimes old ladies as well. They whoop and bounce around. They make noises I've never heard outside of a zoo. They pull up beside in a car as you're walking the street and hoot and gesticulate and bounce. Bule (whitey) bule bule whoop whoop bule! We need out of here, need to get back to civilization.


For what reason I don't know but people wear their helmets for hours after leaving their bike. Looks like bobbeldy head aliens and makes me smile.


Colorful bemo (private mini bus), nicest cars on the roads.

bokad screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 01:26 PM
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:01 AM   #71
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13 July 2012
--------------
Kupang, Timor
Given up on the idea of getting to Papua New Guinea. We're already months over schedule in Indonesia and getting to PNG will require alot of time and boat transport for very little payoff in riding.

Next stop Sulawesi instead. I had thought we should be able to hire some small cargo boat to take us wherever. Even with local help that's proving impossible so we'll ferry back to Flores instead and try from there.

We wait a few days for the next ferry to Flores and show up 5 hours early. Too late, it's full. F*ck!

We decide that as a couples trip this isn't working. Too much stress. Anna will take care of some stuff at home and rejoin me in a more pleasant country. I will press on because I'm a stubborn bastard. Of course it doesn't occur quite that blandly or easily but this is the end result.

On a completely unrelated note we found peanut butter in a specialty store a month ago and now carry a jar everywhere. Useful comfort food for any meal. And you can always find jelly and bread.


Too many passengers, not enough boat.


Nyuk nyuk nyuk


The look of public transit terminals everywhere.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:02 AM   #72
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14 - 16 July 2012
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Kupang, Timor

Mope mope mope
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:49 AM   #73
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For some people in 3rd country Helm is not cheap.
Helm is common target from thief thats why you always see ppl always used they helmet
not because safety but maybe they affraid a thief or maybe they only stop by quickly
Quote:
Originally Posted by bokad View Post
11 July 2012
--------------



For what reason I don't know but people wear their helmets for hours after leaving their bike. Looks like bobbeldy head aliens and makes me smile.


.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:31 PM   #74
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17 July 2012
--------------
Kupang, Timor to Aimere, Flores (by ferry)

The plan now is like this. Ferry to Aimere, Flores. Drive to Labuan Bajo. And from Labuan Bajo there is a scheduled ferry service for Sulawesi. It's a bit sketchy though. It hasn't been running lately but they say it ran last week and will again this week. I hate retracing my steps but this seems like the best way.

It's a 27 hours boat ride. I come prepared. Ear plugs, eye mask, booze, food, and won't be going #2 for at least 36 hours.

As soon as I get on the boat I figure this isn't going to be good. No place to lay down, only hard plastic seats very close together. And it's going to be full. I've heard that the crew will often rent out their personal rooms for the right price (normally $40). Good time to find out. I find the first mate. He wants $100 and won't budge below $80. I look at the cattle car situation developing on the peasant deck and agree. For $80 you get a private room with a bed, air conditioner, and satellite TV. Really what you are paying for though is to NOT be down there. At first I'm a little ticked about the high price but then I fart alot in his bed and I feel that we are even.

The crew likes me. Not only am I a novelty but also nobody else has even been a big enough sucker to give them $80 for a one day trip. They're going to party hard with that soon. I get to drive the boat. They force food on me, more than a reasonable share. They cut up a watermelon and several crew don't get any. I had 3 pieces :)

The crew area is a bit shabby but spacious. The exact opposite of the lower decks. As our voyage progressed that $80 seems like more and more of a bargain. 12 hours in to the trip I'm convinced it's the best money I've ever spent.
Again, you're not paying for comfort, you're paying to not be miserable.
A steel ladder leads down to the passenger deck. There's so much smoke pouring out of the whole in the floor that I think there might be a fire. But no, that's just ALOT of people smoking in a small place with little ventilation.
I went to check on Mr Ural once. It was about 6 hours in to the trip and I could barely make it through the mass of people on the floor, stairs, under trucks, on trucks, beside the toilet, on the bulkhead, everywhere. In typical clumsy moves I stepped on about 5 people.

Mr Ural was the center of a small village. Already it had served as a table, bed, ashtray, chicken coop, garbage can, and chair. I step on a few more people on the way out. It's impossible not to. I try to get something from the bike again a few hours later but by then it is impossible to make it through the crowd.

Trash is starting to accumulate. They don't bother to consolidate. You don't put your peanut shells in a chip bag or put small items in to larger items. You just throw it all on the floor. Wow I'm glad I'm up on the crew deck! I can't imagine how anyone sleeps below. So many people, so little space. So much smoke and blaring pop music.

When we reach port the next morning and the boat empties out I head down to the bike.
It's covered in chicken feathers and brown sludge. WTF! The fuel petcock is petcock is moved to some crazy impossible position and it's been put it neutral which allowed it to roll around and F up the fender. Damn!



Snack up before the boat


These trucks are everywhere. Hard working and reliable. Japanese! As the third world grows so will their fortunes. I've been meaning to buy stock in Mitsubishi.


Every bit of space is used. Poor Ural is bottom left.


When you walk in and see this, think about packing in there for the next 27 hours then pay up and get a room!


Everyone on the deck, notice the one girl looking at me and smiling. Love this pic.


Chilling with the crew. Good guys.


Driving the ship


garbage everywhere


my room


crew rec room
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:06 AM   #75
HairBear
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WoW! what's with all the birds in the rec room?

Really enjoying the ride - two
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