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Old 10-02-2012, 09:00 PM   #91
Wirespokes
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Thanks for the kind words mspa! I enjoyed the company of both you and your friend. Having you around reminds me of my early days with these airheads - and it's satisfying filling you in on all the things that took me so long to find out.

I've got a new adjustable voltage regulator you can have for $22. So that's not a problem. Since yours is working, no rush on that. Pick it up next time you're down this way.

I agree with Disston - at this point there are two possibilities for the clutch - out of spec pressure rings or lube on the disc. No way to know which till it's apart. Fingers crossed it's lube...

All the fasteners on these bikes are metric, so 5/16" aint it. And no split lock washers either!!! Only wave washers!

You'll need the 8mm nuts ( 13mm wrench) for the bar clamps. But there's no rush - with the nuts sufficiently torqued, they won't be coming loose. They've managed to stick around, what... 34 years? now. I don't think they'll be going anywhere but where you take them.

I assume the speedometer (and odometer) have been working ok? You asked if it needed parts - no. But the odometer was so sloppy it's a wonder the number wheels weren't flopping all over the place.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:09 PM   #92
disston
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Just because you can use a 5/16 wrench on an 8 mm nut sometimes has nothing to do with the threads involved. There's a lot more going on than just the external sizes and wrench sizes. The threads are not the same between Metric and SAE. So from now on don't even think of using anything other than Metric on your bike. Even if you are attaching something extra or a fairing or anything like that. When you go to the hardware store and look for nuts and bolts make every effort to only use Metric fasteners.

There may be something someday that comes up where you are forced to use some SAE fastener on your bike. It's OK. But only if there's no way around it.

You'll thank me later. (Monk)
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:24 PM   #93
mspa OP
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Disston, does this mean I have to "learn the metric system" ??? I've never been good at that. Just kidding of course. I think I can manage to stick with metric. But that means I have to get a 22mm bar one day

Wirespokes, what are "wave washers" ?

Thanks on the voltage regulator. I'll see about that next time I'm down. Speedo is working (still)

It's funny how as soon as I start thinking about paying attention to one part of the bike, another part asks for attention . . . when I really didn't want to give it attention.

I ordered parts to fix my center stand. Now my side kickstand spring is not snapping the kickstand back when I lift up. Some people would love that. I miss having it do that. I can see that part of the center stand support is pushing against the other spring.

The weather has gotten colder in the last day and my start this morning took too long. I'm going to try something a little different tomorrow, that Wirespokes suggested. Mainly don't continue trying to start and choke that bike. The idle seems good, and I'm hoping it's not something else . . .

The front end is feeling a little instable and I might be getting paranoid at this point, but I'm wondering if there is something "off" with my front tire, or maybe the front forks are contributing? I think I need to do some research and plan on spending some time this Saturday working on this. I need more time, money and it would be nice to have an extra pair of eyes and hands.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:28 PM   #94
R100LT
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MSPA ... don't sweat too much on the metric ... I would guess over 80% of the bolts on our bikes are either 6 or 8 mm ... so just keep a 10 mm spanner in one hand & a 13 mm in the other and you are good to go .

You will find that after a short while you know them by rope when you are working on the bike ... and only glancing at a reference book .
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:18 AM   #95
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Oh, I look forward to that time :) But I know it is necessary to go through the valley of repairs and maintenance to get there.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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Old 10-07-2012, 02:33 PM   #96
mspa OP
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Well, I'm about to go out and try to fix the centerstand. I'll report back with pics once it's done.

I also need to go into the headlight bucket and figure out how to get the headlight to NOT turn on in park mode. I think this may be affecting my morning startup, with the headlight drawing more power. I'm thinking at some point, I may upgrade to a Valeo starter for less weight and better starting. I have the wiring diagram in my Clymers, hopefully it won't be too difficult to track down.

I'm making a list of parts I'd like to get soon. These include:

Speedo Boot
Neutral Indicator Switch
Carb Sync Tool (Northwood Airheads)

Can you guys suggest best options for gloss black touchup paint for my frame? I see a variety at the auto supply, and curious if you guys have experience with particular brands that matched well.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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Old 10-07-2012, 05:15 PM   #97
disston
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Learning to deal with metric is really no problem. It will become second nature. What seems weird sometimes is American cars because they nowadays have both.

Later, after you have adjusted to things and gotten to know how your bike runs and what to do to keep it running it will be routine and not a mystery at all like so many things are in the beginning. You should appreciate how the bike was built and it may occur to you that it was originally all metric. Many riders have been through this same thing and if not forewarned about this issue they put some SAE fasteners on their bike but later decided that it was a bad move. You may not have a wrench for that SAE fastener. Or if the nut is missing will you remember that a metric one that looks right really isn't.

Those of us who have been around this stuff for a long time can sometimes spot a wrong fastener from 5 feet away. with out even touching it. It just doesn't look right.

It might not be a big issue and certainly you would use what ever is available in an emergency. But trying to stay all metric is really the right move.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:52 PM   #98
mspa OP
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I have just enough German in me to be that anal, so it won't be a problem. And I do look forward to knowing this bike better . . . which I know will ONLY come from working on it and pushing through the frustrating times and keep a rolling forward.

Photos are forthcoming, but I got the centerstand working. There is some bend to the tabs, but the important thing for me is for $29 in hardware, I was able to get the bolts all the way in, with new spacers and wave washer, and lube on the spacers to easy movement . . . and new springs. Much easier than I thought. I'll keep an eye on the suckers to see how they hold.

I also got replaced the nuts on the stock risers with nylocks (8mm), and tidied up some loose wiring with zip ties.

The thing I'm stuck on now is wiring inside the headlight bucket so that the ignition's parking mode will NOT turn the light on. I'm going to post some pictures in a new thread I think to get some quick help. But basically, the manual does not have a diagram that shows the numbering system on the board. Maybe the board is not correct for the bike.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:10 PM   #99
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mspa View Post
But basically, the manual does not have a diagram that shows the numbering system on the board. Maybe the board is not correct for the bike.
Google up "DIN electrical codes". Those numbers are universal on all German vehicles. All the relays and switches will have them if they are DIN spec. Makes electrical diagnostics easy squeezy once you get familiar with the code.

Any wiring diagram for a German vehicle that does not show those circuit numbers is totally lacking of any basic German design and process understanding.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:44 PM   #100
mspa OP
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Centerstand repair

You'll notice in the pics that the left side frame tab was pretty straight. The right side, a little bent. I have multipurpose grease on the spacer to help with movement. There is enough space in the centerstand hole (where the spacer goes through) to still allow good movement on the stand. The bolts come from BMW with red loctite (or similar) on the threads. The bolts are in there really tight. Thank God the threads weren't messed up.

I plan to keep an eye on the bolts, and be more careful when I pull the bike back on the stand. The spacers I pulled off the bike are still in good shape, so if I have to redo this at some point, I figure, I may just be out bolts . . .

Here's what the bolts I removed looked like:



Left side good:







Right side not as good, but it works:





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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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Old 10-07-2012, 09:53 PM   #101
mspa OP
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Sidler circuit board

Here's some pics of the circuit board. I found one DIN electric codes, but wasn't helpful. I'll continue looking.





A wire with no home . . .

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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:35 PM   #102
Kai Ju
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Color blind ?

Why is there a red contact with a green wire ?
What am I missing ?
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:03 PM   #103
bmweuro
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Tape it out of the way. It's for factory accessories like 4 way flashers and sometimes used if you have a headlight on/off switch.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #104
mspa OP
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Kai Ju, that makes sense. I just realized that the color coded circuit board should have corresponding color wires. I'll pull that green one and see if that does the trick.

bmweuro, I'll tape it back for sure. I was planning on doing a light dust/cleaning inside once I got this figured out.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:04 PM   #105
mspa OP
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Well, pulling that green wire didn't do anything for the headlight, so I'm leaving that there. Must have been like that before pulling the fuse relocator out. The DIN codes I have found aren't helping either. I can't believe the manual doesn't show this board and how it should be wired.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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