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Old 10-07-2012, 03:00 PM   #46
ebrabaek OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: El Paso,NM
Oddometer: 4,605
Wicked Restarted......

So after much thought, and ....uhhmmmmm... more thought.... I have decided on two options...... Either a one piece replacement for the plastic beak....reusing the front black tip. The whole unit being a few inches longer...... Or....
Two....
Tie this into a new set of side/top panels ridding the bike of the crazy lines on the top part of the snorkel, along with the sharp bend in the side plastic front of the riders knee....... I cannot get myself to put a high fender on the bike...... TO....and the important part here..... is TO ME..... it looks bad. But I really like the pictures people have posted here with just the low fender removed..... I think along with that, and a set of CF fork guards..... I'm in busyness. So... the question of the day.... Curtsey of a fellow inmate.... 3-5 inches is volunteered..... That is quite long. Wadayathink....???????
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:23 PM   #47
ebrabaek OP
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So.... I took a stick on a 90 deg. angle to the tire....at the point of contact with the lower fender.... There was 2 inches to the beak..... so in theory to yield the same protection....beak goes forward two inches. Beak is now off, and release agent is applied. The simplest way is to make a print of the original beak, and use the front and rear part, so you get an accurate press of the mounting of the beak, and the forward section where the stock black plastic will bolt right on. This way it is vastly different than the stock, and thus no copyright infringement issues, if I decide to make a mould, in case any one are interested....



So it has begun.....
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:37 PM   #48
ebrabaek OP
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First of two layers of epoxy.....

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Old 10-07-2012, 06:00 PM   #49
zgfiredude
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Not to hijack, but I am gonna have some BMW parts for you to make now that I bought one an hour ago........
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:15 PM   #50
ebrabaek OP
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Second layer of epoxy.... Now it will sit overnight.....

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ebrabaek screwed with this post 10-07-2012 at 08:12 PM
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #51
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by zgfiredude View Post
Not to hijack, but I am gonna have some BMW parts for you to make now that I bought one an hour ago........
Ohhhhh dear...... Sertao?....or perhaps the 700....no wait..... 8GS.... 1200 is not you, plus too much money goes in to the city of Aspen, for you to shell out the doe for the 1200....... OK...shutting up....wadayaget.....Buddy old pal.....

After you pick up your new 650 single in Durango....just head south.....and we'l fab something up...... Congrats amigo.
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ebrabaek screwed with this post 10-07-2012 at 06:31 PM
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:27 PM   #52
Ducksbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek;19768741and thus no copyright infringement issues, if I decide to make a mould, in case any one are interested....:evil:evil

[IMG
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x16/ebrabaek/IMG_2385.jpg[/IMG]

So it has begun.....
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:08 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Ohhhhh dear...... Sertao?....or perhaps the 700....no wait..... 8GS.... 1200 is not you, plus too much money goes in to the city of Aspen, for you to shell out the doe for the 1200....... OK...shutting up....wadayaget.....Buddy old pal.....

After you pick up your new 650 single in Durango....just head south.....and we'l fab something up...... Congrats amigo.
Ahhhh, you sneaky devil! But, this is Nancy's new bike!!
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:18 PM   #54
ebrabaek OP
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There have a bit of talk in a few other threads here on advr, regarding orange peeling of epoxy after laying up. And several ideas have been pitched to "correct" the issue.....Most of them wrong, so I thought that I'd post what works, and have been working for me for years..... Simply just wash the piece you are going to make, in soap and water.....then dry it,and apply the release agent, and after two layers of epoxy ( MAX CLR-HP).... you can see that there are a clear, clean surface, even after a few squirts of acetone to rid the bubbles.....


Note the reflection of the garage door....


Until next time....
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:24 AM   #55
ebrabaek OP
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As this piece is going to be a throw away after the first cast is made, I tried to use a bit of fiberglass , but was reminded of how bad it conforms, as compared to the CF. This beak has some crazy angles, but I am hoping that I cam make this without vacuum moulding. So far so good. This will now set, and then the next two layers for a total of three will be laid.

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Old 10-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #56
ebrabaek OP
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So the first layer of CF has stabilized..... and thus the second layer of Carbon....and one glass, for a total of three layers.... cure overnight....

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Old 10-08-2012, 10:26 AM   #57
Jeff4155
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Love these builds.....
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:17 PM   #58
ebrabaek OP
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I kind of knew I was in for a hoot...... With these sharp angles..... and surely enough.... The fabric was not able to conform to the outer angles.... That would be somewhat different though as you lay up into the cast.... but this is not worth fixing..... Plan B tomorrow..... It almost certainly involves a Garage Gangsta Vacuum bag.

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Old 10-08-2012, 09:35 PM   #59
therivermonster
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Looks good, earling!

What's wrong with the layup as in nothing seems to be amiss. Were you planning to use the CF part as a mold, or as the part?
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:43 AM   #60
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by therivermonster View Post
Looks good, earling!

What's wrong with the layup as in nothing seems to be amiss. Were you planning to use the CF part as a mold, or as the part?
Before I start a project, I do a little testing first. In this case..... I knew the angles were pretty crazy for a non vacuum layup. So I first try to see if it is feasible to do this. I begin as such, so if it does not work... I don't have a lot of time in the piece....like foam extension, that all breaks away when I separate the two pieces. Second. ...I try to make a cast of the part needed to be worked, if possible and then save the original, so when I f%$# it up..... No harm done. That is what this cast would serve as.By now I could have made a print.,.... sand...buff....etc, and be done with it, but as there have been interest here, I am focusing not just on me, but on perhaps a future production, and as always it has to make sense financially. And when you step into the realm of vacuum bagging, there is another cost associated with it. Historically, that does not work in the favor of the small shop, as the pieces simply becomes too expensive for people to buy. That is why you have not seen me do any of those.... Plus it is a pain in the a$$, and you tend to disturb more than you help. I will try a few things today, and see what I come up with......
Look on the two aft corners, and the two forward center part of the beak.... see the pull off. Everything else is good. What happens.... mould making 101.....When you have a sharp 90 deg. corner, as the matrix cures, it creates a bit of heat. That heat is what is spiraling out of control as exothermic runaway when you have a pool of resin. Weather you set the piece out in the sun....or it created its own heat the polymeric composition changes. Like...... its tacky........ you add the sun..... now it re-flows again. That happens until the polymers have aligned and set. In that process the fabric...sort of can disturb itself, and that is where vacuum bagging can be helpful, as it holds the matrix in place....regardless of what goes on. Truthfully, I am surprised that it only pulled in the corners...... But I have done this more than once.... This piece would serve a few casts, before it would be in need of work, but I am not trying to copy a stock beak in Carbon Fiber.
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