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Old 10-11-2012, 07:36 PM   #16
jrsride2002 OP
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Pissed Its not over... Why??

OK, so I thought this issue was solved. I blew one fuse, replace it, all done. Case closed..... So I thought...........

Ok, so the bike did fire right up when I put the new fuse in. I even drove it to the nearest car wash for a quickie clean. I got it home, and it blew another fuse. Then another, and then another.... 3 fuses in 5 minutes means their is something wrong. Where do I begin?? Then ground under the seat, above the airbox, is nice and tight. I haven't found any chafed wires/exposed wires. And its still the headlight fuse that is blowing...

More thoughts please,
~Junior
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:32 PM   #17
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrsride2002 View Post
OK, so I thought this issue was solved. I blew one fuse, replace it, all done. Case closed..... So I thought...........

Ok, so the bike did fire right up when I put the new fuse in. I even drove it to the nearest car wash for a quickie clean. I got it home, and it blew another fuse. Then another, and then another.... 3 fuses in 5 minutes means their is something wrong. Where do I begin?? Then ground under the seat, above the airbox, is nice and tight. I haven't found any chafed wires/exposed wires. And its still the headlight fuse that is blowing...

More thoughts please,
~Junior
You have a short someplace in the wiring that is protected by that fuse. You need to get a wiring diagram and and trace those wires till you find it. Chaffed wiring is often hard to see. It tends to be on the bottoms side of the harness bundle, tight to the frame, and dirty. It doesn't take a very big spot of bare wire to cause a short. Any place that the wiring has been tampered with is suspect. You said you replaced the headlight with an aftermarket one that has it's own wires. What happened to the stock head light connection? Is it flopping in the wind? Could it be hitting the frame and shorting out? The starter switch is in that circuit. There may be a short in it. Are there any other mods made to the electricals of the bike besides the headlight? If so could they have caused the short.

Walter
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:20 PM   #18
justinchee
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Could it be retifyer.. It's time for a change? Has it been 1yr??
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:55 AM   #19
jrsride2002 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
You have a short someplace in the wiring that is protected by that fuse. You need to get a wiring diagram and and trace those wires till you find it. Chaffed wiring is often hard to see. It tends to be on the bottoms side of the harness bundle, tight to the frame, and dirty. It doesn't take a very big spot of bare wire to cause a short. Any place that the wiring has been tampered with is suspect. You said you replaced the headlight with an aftermarket one that has it's own wires. What happened to the stock head light connection? Is it flopping in the wind? Could it be hitting the frame and shorting out? The starter switch is in that circuit. There may be a short in it. Are there any other mods made to the electricals of the bike besides the headlight? If so could they have caused the short.

Walter
Yea, my uncle said the same thing. Yesterday. Stock headlight connector is flopping in the wind with zip ties..
I've traced those wires already and didn't see anything wrong. Dirt, HELL YES but no exposures. I'll go over it again, now that the tank is off, and clean the wire up a little bit.
Other mods are LED's all around. And started to do the Trail Tech Vapor, but never hooked the unit up... No reason Just cause, I guess.



Quote:
Originally Posted by justinchee View Post
Could it be retifyer.. It's time for a change? Has it been 1yr??
1Yr?!?!?!?? You have to replace these at all???? Are you serious???? Mine is still OE!!
Well, I guess I can get one cheap on evilBay...


Thanks again guys!! Its time to ride and im getting 'the itch', and this issue is not helping me any,
~Junior
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:56 PM   #20
Walterxr650l
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Electrical problems like this are best found with a logical systematic troubleshooting approach. That circuit only feeds a few things. The stock headlight and associated switches, and the starter switch, starter relay. The headlight power is routed through the starter switch so that it can be shut off while the starter is engaged. So then the question is does it only blow the fuse when the starter button is pushed? If so the problem is in the starter switch, starter relay, or the wiring between them. If not then it is in the headlight side of the circuit, which includes the starter switch.

Ok so lets try to isolate where the short is. So get a bunch of spare fuses and your wiring diagram. ( If you don't have a shop manual you should get one.)To start I'm going to assume that every time you push the starter button you blow a fuse. Start by unhooking the wire from the starter switch to the starter relay, at the relay end. Make sure the end of the wire isn't touching anything and push the starter button. Still blow a fuse? If no the problem is in the relay. If yes, reconnect the wire to the relay, and unhook the starter switch end. Push the starter button. Still blow a fuse? If no, the problem is in that wire, If yes the problem is in the switch assembly.

Now I will assume that the short is in the headlight side. Every time you turn on the key you blow a fuse, or most of the time you blow a fuse. The headlight is powered by a wire from the fuse to the starter switch. From the starter switch it goes to the headlight dimmer switch, where it splits to high or low beam depending on the switch position. You aren't using the headlight anyway so unplug it where it exits the starter switch. Did that fix it? Yes well you aren't using that part so just leave it unplugged. No Well the next step is to unplug the starter switch. Still blowing the fuse? No then the starter switch is the problem. Yes, then the short is in the wire between the switch and the fuse. Are there any joints/connections in that wire. I suspect there is one under the seat. If so keep working back till you isolate what section of wire the short is in.

I suspect that you will find the problem is in the starter switch, but unless you like wasting money replacing good parts you need to prove it.

hope this helps
Walter
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:15 AM   #21
jrsride2002 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
Now I will assume that the short is in the headlight side. Every time you turn on the key you blow a fuse, or most of the time you blow a fuse. The headlight is powered by a wire from the fuse to the starter switch. From the starter switch it goes to the headlight dimmer switch, where it splits to high or low beam depending on the switch position. You aren't using the headlight anyway so unplug it where it exits the starter switch. Did that fix it? Yes well you aren't using that part so just leave it unplugged. No Well the next step is to unplug the starter switch. Still blowing the fuse? No then the starter switch is the problem. Yes, then the short is in the wire between the switch and the fuse. Are there any joints/connections in that wire. I suspect there is one under the seat. If so keep working back till you isolate what section of wire the short is in.

I suspect that you will find the problem is in the starter switch, but unless you like wasting money replacing good parts you need to prove it.

hope this helps
Walter
Holy crap..... Walter... I love you.... I never could think of it that way... DUUDDEE Im like so high on intellectualness that I cant even see straight.... Wooaahh

Thanks for the help! It does happen with the key, not the button/switch
To tired tonight, but will work on it tomorrow.
~Junior
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:13 PM   #22
cbig
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yes

Always check simple stuff..switches then wires. You said you fell. Which side? Good indicator of a short happened. Also when in doubt check with mcma111. He knows these bikes well and from threads I've read rebuilt several. You might have twisted some wires off in your fall.

Good luck.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:50 PM   #23
jrsride2002 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbig View Post
Always check simple stuff..switches then wires. You said you fell. Which side? Good indicator of a short happened. Also when in doubt check with mcma111. He knows these bikes well and from threads I've read rebuilt several. You might have twisted some wires off in your fall.
Good luck.
Yea, i've been reading a few other topics that he has is mitts into. I myself and a total dunce when it comes to electrical stuff, so I personally dont see how checking a switch is simple... Just beyond me is all im saying. Thanks!

My solution:
As to my solution, I did unplug the wire going from the starter button, to the dimmer switch.
What I did was just unplugged the Blue/White connector from the dimmer switch side of the harness altogether. Then tapped the connector off with electrical tape. So far it is working, but I thought I had this issue figured out before, so I am not getting throwing down my happy dance just yet. However, thanks to Walter's help, I believe this will solve my issue. If I were using the stock headlight, this would do nothing for me. Being that I do have an aftermarket headlight setup, this is a solution....

Will come back to this thread after a few more rides, and give a final update. Thanks again to everyone who helped out!!!!
~Junior
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:54 PM   #24
cbig
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Not sure

What a dimmer switch is unless you mean hi low beam. If yours is like my 600 that is a switch on the left. Your setup sounds different... Hence your hot lead may be wired different or all together. Need to see your aftermarket schematic.

Either way if yu unplugged it and it runs, what does that tell you? Could mean you have a short there, yes? Connect one end of your taped up leads to a multimeter, the other to the handlebar. (ground) check it on ohms and see if there's continuity. Then check the other lead, and check them both while using the switch. If irrespective of the use of the switch you have continuity you found your short. If that switch side is what hit when you went down be a good bet. Sounds like your positive source for the solenoid is grounding or shorting out, causing your fuse to blow. If this same hot lead is sent to your "dimmer" or is on some common bus you are on track. Generally a hot lead (positive) is supplied to the hi low switch which gets sent to either high or low. 2 position switchCan't tell without seeing it and you have an aftermarket setup. Not solving this isn't helping by keeping the lead out.

Generally stock xr's are damn reliable provided you keep oil in them and do minimal maintenance. Good luck.

Chuck
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:25 PM   #25
jrsride2002 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbig View Post
What a dimmer switch is unless you mean hi low beam. If yours is like my 600 that is a switch on the left. Your setup sounds different... Hence your hot lead may be wired different or all together. Need to see your aftermarket schematic.
Yea, you're right. The left side switch for the hi/low

Baja Designs dual Fuego lights


Quote:
Originally Posted by cbig View Post
Either way if yu unplugged it and it runs, what does that tell you? Could mean you have a short there, yes? Connect one end of your taped up leads to a multimeter, the other to the handlebar. (ground) check it on ohms and see if there's continuity. Then check the other lead, and check them both while using the switch. If irrespective of the use of the switch you have continuity you found your short. If that switch side is what hit when you went down be a good bet. Sounds like your positive source for the solenoid is grounding or shorting out, causing your fuse to blow. If this same hot lead is sent to your "dimmer" or is on some common bus you are on track. Generally a hot lead (positive) is supplied to the hi low switch which gets sent to either high or low. 2 position switchCan't tell without seeing it and you have an aftermarket setup. Not solving this isn't helping by keeping the lead out.

Generally stock xr's are damn reliable provided you keep oil in them and do minimal maintenance. Good luck.

Chuck
Yea, i'll dig a little deeper tomorrow. Today, im burnt out.
As for the headlights(pictured above), they run directly to the batt with there own inline fuse and handle bar switches(1 light, 2 lights, and off).

Thanks Chuck. Will take a look again later,
~Junior
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:04 AM   #26
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
Electrical problems like this are best found with a logical systematic troubleshooting approach. That circuit only feeds a few things. The stock headlight and associated switches, and the starter switch, starter relay. The headlight power is routed through the starter switch so that it can be shut off while the starter is engaged. So then the question is does it only blow the fuse when the starter button is pushed? If so the problem is in the starter switch, starter relay, or the wiring between them. If not then it is in the headlight side of the circuit, which includes the starter switch.

Ok so lets try to isolate where the short is. So get a bunch of spare fuses and your wiring diagram. ( If you don't have a shop manual you should get one.)To start I'm going to assume that every time you push the starter button you blow a fuse. Start by unhooking the wire from the starter switch to the starter relay, at the relay end. Make sure the end of the wire isn't touching anything and push the starter button. Still blow a fuse? If no the problem is in the relay. If yes, reconnect the wire to the relay, and unhook the starter switch end. Push the starter button. Still blow a fuse? If no, the problem is in that wire, If yes the problem is in the switch assembly.

Now I will assume that the short is in the headlight side. Every time you turn on the key you blow a fuse, or most of the time you blow a fuse. The headlight is powered by a wire from the fuse to the starter switch. From the starter switch it goes to the headlight dimmer switch, where it splits to high or low beam depending on the switch position. You aren't using the headlight anyway so unplug it where it exits the starter switch. Did that fix it? Yes well you aren't using that part so just leave it unplugged. No Well the next step is to unplug the starter switch. Still blowing the fuse? No then the starter switch is the problem. Yes, then the short is in the wire between the switch and the fuse. Are there any joints/connections in that wire. I suspect there is one under the seat. If so keep working back till you isolate what section of wire the short is in.

I suspect that you will find the problem is in the starter switch, but unless you like wasting money replacing good parts you need to prove it.

hope this helps
Walter
Likely the most logical and user friendly troubleshooting post I've seen. You sir, are a contributer!
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #27
jrsride2002 OP
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Likely the most logical and user friendly troubleshooting post I've seen. You sir, are a contributer!
Oh God yes!! I am thankful that someone took the guess work out for me, because I would STILL be guessing WTF if it were not for Walter's help!!

No new update as of yet, but will mention changes.

Again, thanks to everyone!!
~Junior
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:31 PM   #28
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Resurecting

Hey guys, im just posting an update.

With the awesome help of Walter, my wire unplugging worked like a charm! I haven't blown a fuse yet, no issues with the starter not drawing enough or drawing to much. New batt is holding in strong, so everything seems just right!!

OK, so im confident that this wiring mod worked out for me, in my purposes/needs
Again, much thanks to ALL for input, knowledge, and help for this fiasco,

~Junior
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