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Old 08-29-2012, 04:48 PM   #31
Navin OP
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I wish I had measured them as delivered now!

I'm pretty sure they were close to 9mm before and they were stalling like crazy diving into corners off road. They were definetly higher than they are now. I now know 16mm is too low. If it doesn't stall at 12, it'll stay there. I'll move 1mm at a time now if I have to go to less fuel again.

Thanks!

I just had her in the woods and did a few dozen brake slides into corners off of fast WOT straights, NO STALLS!!!

Next to cure the off idle lag it has for a few hundred RPMs in the basement and smooth out the hit after it. H2W says a JD kit cures it and I'll do that mod next. For now I figured out how to ride around it, man this thing rips now! I need to get it in the deep SNJ sand!
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:12 PM   #32
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So, ran her hard in the deep NJ sand today. Not impressed again. I got these to cure the CV stalling in whoops, but, while better, they still get sloppy in deep, nasty whoops while skimming. Everytime it took a hard hit it would drop power causing the bike to drag, start skidding and swapping. Ridden at 60-70% it is fine. Start bottoming the suspension and all bets are off.

Another SE rider with FCRs was having the same symptoms. I have a vac FP, he a facet so that didn't seem to matter.

Street use they rock. At a DS pace they are great, race pace in turns the bike explodes out like a missle but wick it up in whoops and they flubber.

So, anyone using a FPR with FCRs?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:50 PM   #33
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I too was surprised when it did it to me the first time. They are better than the CV's but like you say, still do act up.

I'm wondering what the actual cause is? Is it the high G's that cause the floats to sit lower and so stay open thus causing the overly rich running?

It seems to me that whoops cause it to run very rich. I had a guy behind me once who thought my bike had caught fire, when the bike finally stalled flames were coming out the exhausts.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:59 PM   #34
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have any of you guys tried lowering the float level??????

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Old 10-16-2012, 01:05 AM   #35
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don't know much about them but Would the R&D power II bowls help or the Power Pump II ?

have you had a chat with Eddie Sisneros on thumperTalk
http://www.thumpertalk.com/user/5904-eddie-sisneros/
he is a guru for the FCR's & in the past found him very helpful. it never hurts to ask.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:38 AM   #36
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My floats are as low as I dare to run them at this point. I'm thinking the slant and depth of the bowls is the cause too. My MX FCRs never miss a beat.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:15 AM   #37
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I wonder if there is a way to build a spring loaded needle and seat...kinda like the Holley Carbs when used for off-road

http://www.holley.com/6-513.asp
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #38
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I think it needs a fully baffled bowl.

Mine is either gonna sell or be retired into DS/street use only. I may have to weld on the passenger pegs to keep myself from trying to race it in the future but I'm really committed to ending my last few semi fast years of racing on a proper small bike.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:34 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
So, ran her hard in the deep NJ sand today. Not impressed again. I got these to cure the CV stalling in whoops, but, while better, they still get sloppy in deep, nasty whoops while skimming. Everytime it took a hard hit it would drop power causing the bike to drag, start skidding and swapping. Ridden at 60-70% it is fine. Start bottoming the suspension and all bets are off.

Another SE rider with FCRs was having the same symptoms. I have a vac FP, he a facet so that didn't seem to matter.

Street use they rock. At a DS pace they are great, race pace in turns the bike explodes out like a missle but wick it up in whoops and they flubber.

So, anyone using a FPR with FCRs?
Maybe you could do a 990 injection swap!


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Old 10-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #40
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Maybe you could do a 990 injection swap!




NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

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Old 10-16-2012, 11:48 AM   #41
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Maybe you could do a 990 injection swap!


I haven't read the whole thread here, but the few posts I have read made me think that same thing! I have been thinking about it for mine. Shortly after I got my SE (new) I took it on a ride with some steep hills and rough terrain. It was scary when it would just flood out on long, steep downhills or stumble in the rough. I'm super happy with the EFI on my 990 R.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:12 PM   #42
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Try this for cold weather starting help

I put a Euro headlight switch on my '05 Adventure so I could have the headlight shut off while starting. Added a little more latitude for cold weather cranking...
Adventurers Workshop sells them.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:20 PM   #43
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Adventurers Workshop sells them.
Are they still in business? I heard they took a bunch of orders and shut down. If you got an order filled, you did well.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #44
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I put a Euro headlight switch on my '05 Adventure so I could have the headlight shut off while starting. Added a little more latitude for cold weather cranking...
Adventurers Workshop sells them.
We have those on our bikes, and it helps. We stock those.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:35 PM   #45
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Eek Yikes

Quote:
Originally Posted by veetwo _tls View Post
don't know much about them but Would the R&D power II bowls help
At $500 retail for the two carbs that is an expensive fix!

I do think the totally horizontal position of the carbs has a lot to do with bogging problems, and yes I think float bowl baffles would help

The Power Bowl 2's work well on the KTM singles
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