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Old 10-14-2012, 04:35 PM   #46
Uncle Pollo
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Originally Posted by RecycledRS View Post
Chocolate brown is too rich IMO.
milk chocolate with peanut butter
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:57 PM   #47
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Oh, OK. It'll be alright with peanut butter!
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #48
Uncle Pollo
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Originally Posted by robtg View Post
..... " I am the only person that I know of that is running 32mm flatsides on an R80".......There may be a good reason for that. VM36's or maybe even 34's would be better. Nothing wrong with flatslides, but 32's are a bit small.
my 32s run better than my bings. waiting for the fatter needle and see.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:22 PM   #49
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Why am I in the pantry with jif and a banana?
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:44 PM   #50
Uncle Pollo
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i have that effect on women.

"pheh .... rather be eating"
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:51 PM   #51
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IMO reading plugs is too hard for most. Most everybody jets way too rich based on plug reading. I have had people look at my plugs and say my engine is going to melt. It never did. It sniffed on the dyno right around perfect too after I went back down to the mains that I thought were running best but wanted to be safe. My plugs run mostly white on pump gas. They run pure white on race gas. On race gas you are not even in the ball park until your pipes start running white. Then I lean it from there until it doesn't run right and richen it back up a bit. The same thing holds true through the rev range if you keep in mind that from idle up to the mains a little too rich for steady revs usually gets you reved up quicker. In other words. They often run best just a RCH rich except for up on the mains. A RCH rich on the mains will cost you at least a pony or two. It can be running and sounding real good and still be quite a bit more than a RCH too rich on the mains. It costs you quite a few ponies that are otherwise free for the taking. Better mileage, more power, cleaner engine. Win/win IF you don't melt your engine!
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #52
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Agreed that most run too rich and plugs are hard to read. After tuning for many years I have found that using an air/fuel gauge to be the only certain way to be sure the jetting is right. Not saying more talented folks can't do it by reading plugs but with all the additives in the fuel today I find it a "guesstimate" at best.

Of course a dyno run to two would also help.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:09 AM   #53
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have had mikunis on an airhead and need info

Ok itis a little hard reading all the posts so please outline exactly what is going on starting with idle, off idle, transition to needles and on the mains. What happens when you (try to) ride normally like you did with the stock Bings?
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:35 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
Ok itis a little hard reading all the posts so please outline exactly what is going on starting with idle, off idle, transition to needles and on the mains. What happens when you (try to) ride normally like you did with the stock Bings?
Bike runs fine....better. But it's eating gas. Plugs are slightly carbon fouled.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:22 PM   #55
Uncle Pollo
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http://www.amckayltd.com/VM34-36.pdf

Simply the best tuning guide from the xs650 forums.

The pollobusa is finally tuned.

...for now.

I will try a bigger main and see.

42 miles per gallon riding around town like an idiot.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:18 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
IMO reading plugs is too hard for most. Most everybody jets way too rich based on plug reading. I have had people look at my plugs and say my engine is going to melt. It never did. It sniffed on the dyno right around perfect too after I went back down to the mains that I thought were running best but wanted to be safe. My plugs run mostly white on pump gas. They run pure white on race gas. On race gas you are not even in the ball park until your pipes start running white. Then I lean it from there until it doesn't run right and richen it back up a bit. The same thing holds true through the rev range if you keep in mind that from idle up to the mains a little too rich for steady revs usually gets you reved up quicker. In other words. They often run best just a RCH rich except for up on the mains. A RCH rich on the mains will cost you at least a pony or two. It can be running and sounding real good and still be quite a bit more than a RCH too rich on the mains. It costs you quite a few ponies that are otherwise free for the taking. Better mileage, more power, cleaner engine. Win/win IF you don't melt your engine!
You ever work as a surveyor? That takes me back to when I pulled chain and gave shots over turn points the old fashioned way before infrared gadgets took over the measuring. Yeah, I'm getting that old...
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:16 PM   #57
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Read the whole thing.

ANybody know anything about hte flatslides with rollers as opposed to those with out?
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:12 PM   #58
Kai Ju
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Roller slides

The rollers are there to negate the friction created when the throttle is being closed and the slide is sucked against the body. It also allows the use of softer throttle return springs, just for that reason.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:16 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Pollo View Post
http://www.amckayltd.com/VM34-36.pdf

Simply the best tuning guide from the xs650 forums.

The pollobusa is finally tuned.

...for now.

I will try a bigger main and see.

42 miles per gallon riding around town like an idiot.
Wow! Great tuning manual! Thanks for that!!! Hoping to have my new needle jets tomorrow.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:32 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
The rollers are there to negate the friction created when the throttle is being closed and the slide is sucked against the body. It also allows the use of softer throttle return springs, just for that reason.

ok, I get it... I have heard the roller units were more expensive than the non's.. I also havent heard how to tell them apart, or which model numbers differentiated them. Any help there?
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