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Old 02-18-2012, 11:34 AM   #31
civhatch90 OP
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoktorT View Post
Put the clutch splines on the backlist to get to after many other more important duties. Start with the pure safety issues. Tires, Wheels/bearings, steering head bearings, forks, swing arm bearings, rear wheel bearings. Problems here can put you into the ditch or curb.

Then brakes, flush and bleed the fluid, adjust, test.

Don't be ripping sweepers with it until you get to that safety level.

Then verify tuning and balance.

Don't just start replacing anything. Just do the maintenance inspection, verify what you got and make the adjustments.

Then have on next winter's list the tranny pull and clutch spline inspection. Do the 6k inspection first, then the 12k items to follow up. Keep notes as you go or you won't have a history to use or pass on.
Thanks, the splines will definitely have to wait- solving the master cylinder issue became a priority as well as the fork seals, starter motor, and clutch adjustment.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:10 PM   #32
photorider
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cluth adjustment

The easiest way I've found to adjust the clutch is to get a piece of coat hanger, cut to exactly 201mm. This is the space between the transmission housing front casting area where the cable fits through (rear surface of the transmission housing there), to the forward edge of the lever rear hook area. You can adjust the cable at both ends. When you are done you should have just a little free play at the lever. Hope that helps...
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:08 PM   #33
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
If anything, you may just need to clean and regrease them. Grab the wheel as you stand facing the headlight, pull the wheel towards you then push it away (towards the rear of the bike) If there is no movement, you'll probably be fine. But once you start riding you may notice a "clunk" which could indicate yucky grease. If you're going to be cleaning everything else up, I'd pull them and clean/regrease for good measure. Clutch splines, everybody has an opinion. I've pulled my trans just 10k after a clean and lube, and saw none left. It isn't as huge of a deal as some make it out to be. Nice bike!
The splines go completely dry a lot quicker than that and the clutch will work perfectly if ridden regularly until you need a new clutch or seal. No matter how much lube you put on them as evidenced in a recent thread. At least half of the airheads that I know of get that treatment with no more ill effects than the other half that gets regularly lubed splines. Maybe it would hurt less feelings if the "don't lube them unless they need it crowd" put it in words like dt did in this thread which is put it on the backburner till all the more important stuff gets addressed first. I can wholeheartedly agree with that advise since I always have more important maintenance to take care with bikes that get ridden regularly. If civh90's clutch is like a lot of them that I have caught slipping with no free play in the lever, he is going to have to go in there to replace clutch parts soon enough anyway. It doesn't do them any good. Good luck civh90!
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:48 PM   #34
civhatch90 OP
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Back at it...

Since my last post, I have rebuilt the starter and started tearing down the front end.

I realized both fork tubes were bent and one was even cracked! The cracked one is stuck to the lower triple/steering stem (if that's what its called). I hope once I can pull the tube out the triple+stem will not be bent- I really would not want to replace these. Do these ever get bent?



How the bike sits:

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Old 10-20-2012, 09:10 PM   #35
ooweel
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civhatch90 slid this into his first post

"Can't wait to ride it. I want to see what you old folks love so much about them..."

I remember being young Now I can look back at all the Airheads I had and why I had them.

Was it because they were COOL? NAH!

Was it because they handled and stopped so well right from the dealers showroom? NAH!

Was it because chicks dig them? NAH!

NAH!
It was something deeper, rooted to my passion of riding, knowing that someday when I am old, some young guy will post on a website "Can't wait to ride it. I want to see what you old folks love so much about them..."

Welcome to the passion kid
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:23 PM   #36
boxerboy81
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Looking at this picture I see two things.



1. The clutch arm may be too close to parallel to the gearbox. It's usually at a bit of an angle. Hard to tell, but sure worth checking and may solve the clutch adjustment issue.
2. You're about to lose the float bowl. The clip needs to be on further. You should feel a click when it seats correctly. The wire seats at both sides of the bowl.

Have a good read here...http://forum.boxerworks.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5461
Airbear has done the brake conversion to his single disc 90/6 and he is very happy with the result. It may even be cheaper and better than using BMW second hand bits and pieces.
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:46 PM   #37
Kt-88
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Sad news on the front end but very awesome that you found it that way!
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:47 PM   #38
Big Bamboo
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New Forks

Quote:
Originally Posted by civhatch90 View Post
Back at it...

Since my last post, I have rebuilt the starter and started tearing down the front end.

I realized both fork tubes were bent and one was even cracked! The cracked one is stuck to the lower triple/steering stem (if that's what its called). I hope once I can pull the tube out the triple+stem will not be bent- I really would not want to replace these. Do these ever get bent?
Yes, they do. When you get the new fork tubes, you'll need to insert them in the tree and check for parallel and in the same plane with a piece of glass. If not, you'll need to read this article: http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/fork/title.html


How the bike sits:

Check out the prices at Forks by Frank: http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

Big Bamboo screwed with this post 10-20-2012 at 11:53 PM
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