1981 R80g/s Bings Application question: 64/32/ ?

[elmontanero]

Might sound odd as I've done the query and can read the chart.
I've got Bing 63/32/ 323&324 's on my bike. I realize that they aren't listed here either. I'm guessing that they might be the California spec carbs? (yeah, The smog stuff has been stripped off my bike too)
Background for the question: Fresh coils, wires, plugs, carbs have been rebuilt, both the bodies and slides are worn and scored pretty good though.
Recently the bike ran perfect then has been crappy, poor, intermittent etc. And I'm thinking that the carbs could be the issue, I've done the in place carb cleaner with the jets out, screws out, but haven't pulled them off the bike for the harder inspection.
The A&S application chart. Again, I can read and understand it.
The real questions are: If I'm shopping for some used parts will the rest on the list work? Do I need a matched pair listed for them to work properly?

01 CARBURETTOR LEFT 64/32/351 1 10/1984
01 CARBURETTOR RIGHT 64/32/352 1 10/1984
01 CARBURETTOR LEFT 64/32/321 1 03/1985
01 CARBURETTOR RIGHT 64/32/332 1 03/1985
01 CARBURETTOR LEFT 64/32/357 1 11/1984
01 CARBURETTOR RIGHT 64/32/358 1 11/1984
01 CARBURETTOR LEFT 64/32/351 1 03/1985
01 CARBURETTOR RIGHT 64/32/352 1 03/1985

Chart is misaligned, Vbulletin condenses your spacing.

Alternately if there's a Airhead guru in San Diego willing to take a look, listen... There's Belgian Beer in the Fridge.

[SOLO LOBO]

The only thing I have ever seen on Bing 63/'s is from Snowbum

These early model Bing 63/32/3 and 64/32/4 carburetors were a bit crude. The idle passageways in the carburetor were a poorly designed simple single stage type and were somewhat abrupt in operation as the throttle is just barely opened from idle stops. That is the primary reason that the butterfly's had better be installed absolutely correctly. Even on much later models, the positioning of the butterfly is very important.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/earlybingR75CV.htm


64/32/323 and 324 are what's on my early '81

[elmontanero]

Thanks Gage. But are the 323/324's then the one's that Snowbum refers to "3/4's" ? And anybody got info as to using all the rest of the numbers: 351/352 ; 321/332 : 357/358 for use on this bike? Or is a 32mm carb a 32mm carb and I need to quit being a hand wringer on this?

I hate to admit it but the g/s was relegated to the "visiting family" garage bike. This last hiccup has been for about a month as I've been maintaining the oilheads (gasp) to keep me on wheels (I don't own a car). The g/s has almost been consigned to the "for sale" status. Your posts relating to wrenching vs riding has made me feel better about the beast.

(Bike tank was always drained and fresh gas put in place, both petcock and inline filters, fresh battery. Less anybody think it's one of those. And again I've half - hosed them down with Carb Cleaner)

[disston]

If you removed the main jet stacks with the needle jet and the pre-atomiser then when replacing them it is possible the jet needles got bent. It is for this reason I think it is a good idea to always remove the carbs if you want to clean them. I take the jets out and replace the O-rings that I think it needs. I some times need only one or two O-rings, some times none. I don't know why they go bad, but they do. We are told the carb cleaner ruins them but I'm not sure about that. Still I try to not get them wet with carb cleaner.

I use wheel bearing grease or silicone spray to put O-rings in.

The alignment of the throttle plate is critical. If trouble with the O-ring on the throttle shaft get new screws. You also may need a new shaft because the original screws are peened in place and if not filed before removal the threads in the original shaft are ruined. Even if carefully filed the threads may be no good.

If the slides and carb bodies are scratched up too much you will do best to find some new carbs. There are other parts in the 64 series carbs that wear out. The jet needles and the needle jets are both wear items. I have had to replace idle mix screws because the were rusted. I guess water was in that gas tank.

Supposedly all the carbs that start with 64/32 are the same but I've seen it said there were differences over the years. Still if you know what you are doing you could build a carb from any of these bodies I think. The carb tops are different sometimes. All of those carbs you mention look the same except for jet sizes, but I didn't study them too much.

The 3's and 4's that Snowbum is referring to are the earliest /5 carbs. You don't have them.

[Renner]

Originally Posted by elmontanero

... if there's a Airhead guru in San Diego willing to take a look, listen... There's Belgian Beer in the Fridge.

I'm no expert but will take my chances at the Belgian beer.
I'm about 2 miles north of downtown San Diego and have the same -323/-324 carbs on my '83 R80ST.

Plus I've chased the carburetor gremlins to wits-end & back, finally exorcised them by venting the crankcase breather overboard.

Even with a rebuilt top-end, some schmutz-slurry can condense/collect at the bottom of the air inlet elbows, right at the inlet to the carburetor's idle and atomizer air inlet passages.
A local airhead steered me toward going overboard with the vent and I took the leap of faith.

- this after rebuilding the carbs twice, the 2nd time cleaning the carb bodies & bits in a heated ultrasonic tank
( http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6601/40/sra_trupower_uc_20d_ultrasonic_cleaner_2_liter ) and still finding no joy.-

It worked the charm for me. YMMV
I run the vent tube out along the brake rod.

Originally Posted by elmontanero

The real questions are: If I'm shopping for some used parts will the rest on the list work? Do I need a matched pair listed for them to work properly?

that I can't answer.

[elmontanero]

Thanks Renner,

I'll be in touch soon. I'm going back in there in the next couple days to try to get the thing straightened out. I'm interested in your routing of that breather. Besides a couple R80's might offer an interesting meeting.

Chimay? Duvel? or German : Franciskaner? Canadian: Unibroue? (underrated but wonderful).

[disston]

Renner,

Is there a thread about this breather modification? Instead of asking my questions here maybe they have already been asked.

[Renner]

Originally Posted by disston

Renner,

Is there a thread about this breather modification? Instead of asking my questions here maybe they have already been asked.

no thread.
'can offer tube size and general length, more pics.
I picked up the vinyl(?) tube at Home Depot or Ace or somewhere... will get back to you on that.. ran it out the 'smog' port adjacent to the airbox elbow port.

Originally Posted by elmontanero

Chimay? Duvel? or German : Franciskaner? Canadian: Unibroue? (underrated but wonderful).

all sound most-excellent.
have you visited these folks?
http://www.societebrewing.com/wordpress/

[disston]

Well I don't have a smog port on my 1975 R90/6. I Think I can find some where to drill a hole and figuring the size of the rubber hose is not a problem. The only real question I think I have is, if I run the hose up for a little bit then the oil can condense and some of it run back it to the engine? Or is this a bad idea and make the hose down all they way?

[Renner]

Originally Posted by disston

Well I don't have a smog port on my 1975 R90/6.

yeah, I was remembering your /6 a moment ago

Originally Posted by disston

... if I run the hose up for a little bit then the oil can condense and some of it run back it to the engine? Or is this a bad idea and make the hose down all they way?

good idea AFAIK as BMW did essentially that very thing with the CV system circa '78.