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Old 10-16-2012, 05:41 AM   #76
runnin4melife OP
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Well I was flipping through the touratech book and saw the clamps they used for stuff and thought hell they sell those at hardware stores. I found some I liked and the rest is history.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:51 AM   #77
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Made the fender mounting bracket and should put it on this Sunday.

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Old 10-18-2012, 05:13 PM   #78
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Looking good so far!

Anxious to see how it looks all done. They all have come out well so far and it's always good to get new tips/ideas/solutions in the mix.

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Old 10-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #79
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Once I get back in town I will finish the fender mount then I begin the carbon fiber fork guards. I have the KLX 250 fork guards at home and just like Erling suggested I will try to conform the lower part of the guard to match the bolt pattern then fab up a few carbon fiber ones. I am about 80% done with the front bit tweaking will occur.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:55 AM   #80
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Erling, the KLX front fork guard would be a great model to follow as they have the slider portion that runs along a track on the inside of the guard which provides increased stability. The issue is that I am not quite sure how to fabricate this? I am imagining that I would have to either fab the guards then fab the track and then incorporate them together or something else entirely. I will post pics shortly.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:30 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Erling, the KLX front fork guard would be a great model to follow as they have the slider portion that runs along a track on the inside of the guard which provides increased stability. The issue is that I am not quite sure how to fabricate this? I am imagining that I would have to either fab the guards then fab the track and then incorporate them together or something else entirely. I will post pics shortly.
I am having trouble picturing this...... I tried yesterday to use sheets of lexan, but it did not turn out as good as I wanted. When you say track...... You mean the bottom part that bolts on to the two holes on the fork????
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:00 AM   #82
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The track runs down the center of the fork guard w/the guide being fixed to the upper fork tube.

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Old 10-22-2012, 09:49 AM   #83
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I see....... That is one of the inherit issues with plastic. It will eventually crack.......thus the need for top stabilization. One you make the CF repro.... You need not worry about the top track, as CF is pleanty strong, and stiff.....Thus not necessitating the track. Might wanna look at this......

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1#post19873141
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:24 PM   #84
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Done mounting the KTM 690 fender, the bracket worked out nicely! The only issue I had was getting the washers to stay in place as I mounted everything, that was solved with some super glue. I just tac'd them in place and it made my day much easier.

I had to place the back 2 bolts that mount to the fender before securing the outer 2 bolts that mount to the lower triple first because once on I cannot access that location.

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Once on you can see that I have 3 bolts mounting the bracket to the lower triple and 4 bolts mounting the bracket to the fender and 1 of these bolts runs from fender to lower triple (center). This provided the greatest stability in all aspects given what I had to work with.

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In this picture you can see that I made a small sleeve to fill the void between center bolt and the bracket. This worked out great and makes that bolt exceptionally rigid!

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I really think the fender looks great and honestly it does not look too much like it is a franken fabrication. I still want to mess with the beak a bit as well as see if I can one up Erling on the fork guards (doubtful, but will try).
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:34 AM   #85
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This is really looking great!

Nice work
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:25 AM   #86
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So I didn't think about this too much when I secured the brake line nylon sleeves to the fork clamps but under full suspension travel this section actually comes very close to contact with the rear portion where the older fender connected. I found this out by doing quite a few wheelies to test everything out. When I got home the sleeves went from the original 90' position to a 45' position. This needs to be fixed, I am toying with a few things for now.

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This is a quick and dirty fix, it will not stay like this. I am just seeing if this distance will work.

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Old 10-24-2012, 01:52 PM   #87
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On to the fork guards

So I went and bought some 26 gauge aluminum (easier to bend than glavanized, but easier to screw up too) and made a template for a fork guard. This was based somewhat off of the aesthetics of a MX fork guard but that was the extent. I only made one so far which is currently curing. It is a test to see how it works out.





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Once the CF cures I will see how it turned out... I am hoping it is good to go.

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:41 PM   #88
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Nice.... I like the look and shape. I might eventually cut the outside, as such, but I wanted to leave this open, as to protect the top side of the sliders. Unless you use the HTE ( I don't recall seeing you buy that, then I think that you need 4 layers, as the hp is not as stiff..... Buy only you can judge that after casting..... You can always add that on the backside later......
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #89
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Yeah I bought some HP and HTE, I got the HTE after the I decided I wanted to make the radiator guard a week ago. I ran 4 layers with the HTE. I wanted to make it really stiff. I think I used a little too much resin on this one as it began to pool/drip after I started the cure, I just put it on an angle and the excess ran off so no worries.

Also on the radiator guard, I spoke with my father regarding this and he recommended just drafting a template on CF and using a small router tip to carve out the stuff. He said the CNC machine wont like the CF. I think he is full of it and doesn't want to risk something weird happening so that is what I will have to do. He is very specific about his stuff and since I am not there I cannot sneak in and do it.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:12 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Yeah I bought some HP and HTE, I got the HTE after the I decided I wanted to make the radiator guard a week ago. I ran 4 layers with the HTE. I wanted to make it really stiff. I think I used a little too much resin on this one as it began to pool/drip after I started the cure, I just put it on an angle and the excess ran off so no worries.

Also on the radiator guard, I spoke with my father regarding this and he recommended just drafting a template on CF and using a small router tip to carve out the stuff. He said the CNC machine wont like the CF. I think he is full of it and doesn't want to risk something weird happening so that is what I will have to do. He is very specific about his stuff and since I am not there I cannot sneak in and do it.
Ha ha ha........ I think CF vs cnc mill.... the mill wins......... Worst case you need to clean the bit from gummed up resin. Best case.... you have the only CF rad guard in the world. I think, if you use the hte, and control the ratio's...... bake it at 350 deg as last step...... then go easy, like if there is a way to control the fwd. movement of the mill, or gnaw a little here,,,,,and there....back to here.... it could be done...... Me tinks. I'd like to see it done.......
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