Drz400 Thread

[wingam00]

This may help. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/846648-lower-footpeg/

Also do a web search on "lower foot pegs drz400" and you will find some other info.

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

This has probably been covered but after looking through waaaaay to many pages I'll just ask.

I'm 6' 3" and need to lower my foot pegs. I just put on new pegs, stock height because I couldn't find a drop set for a 2011 model.

Anybody know of lowering blocks and/or where to get them for the dizzer?

[SKINZ]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TheQuadShop

That's od, when I put that part number of 37820-36E00 into other sites like CheapCycleParts and Bike Bandit it comes up as the engine kill switch.

A kill switch would work the same as a reset switch. One way to find out! Has anyone tried jumping the leads in the connector? Curious to know if it works.

[MotoBoss]

Originally Posted by wingam00

This may help. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/846648-lower-footpeg/

Also do a web search on "lower foot pegs drz400" and you will find some other info.

Thanks, I've already checked these sources and it looks as though the Moose is about the only "store bought" option. Really I'd like to have a 1/2" back and 3/4" lower peg option. I have a 1/2" back and 1" down block on my KLR and with the addition of the taller ATV bars is a great fit.

May have to "manufacture" my own bolck....................

[Jeff@TheQuadShop]

Originally Posted by SKINZ

A kill switch would work the same as a reset switch. One way to find out! Has anyone tried jumping the leads in the connector? Curious to know if it works.

I ended up finding one on eBay, we'll see if it works.

[The Recycled Teenager]

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

Thanks, I've already checked these sources and it looks as though the Moose is about the only "store bought" option. Really I'd like to have a 1/2" back and 3/4" lower peg option. I have a 1/2" back and 1" down block on my KLR and with the addition of the taller ATV bars is a great fit.

May have to "manufacture" my own bolck....................

Go for it and you will get exactly what you want

[150ron]

Originally Posted by 955616846

It's a 1.6" rim so yes, it'll fit fine.

Gotta ask... what are you up to? Any reason for the 2.75" preference?

Originally Posted by SKINZ

Here is a good link that shows acceptable rim widths and tire profiles. The chart is near the bottom of the page. There will be no fitment issues.

https://www.denniskirk.com/help_center/tire-sizes.jsp

But why the 2.75?

Thanks guys, i want to order a set of shinko 244's, will like to get the 5.10-18 for the rear (which im sure will fit fine) and have two choices for the front, either the 3.00-21 or the 2.75-21, would like to get the 2.75-21 to keep the front narrow and the weight down as much as possible, not to mention i like the skinny front tire look to go with the wide rear tire look.

[threadkiller]

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

Thanks, I've already checked these sources and it looks as though the Moose is about the only "store bought" option. Really I'd like to have a 1/2" back and 3/4" lower peg option. I have a 1/2" back and 1" down block on my KLR and with the addition of the taller ATV bars is a great fit.

May have to "manufacture" my own bolck....................

You may also consider a higher seat. I use and recommend the SDG Tall.

[Muddler]

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

Thanks, I've already checked these sources and it looks as though the Moose is about the only "store bought" option. Really I'd like to have a 1/2" back and 3/4" lower peg option. I have a 1/2" back and 1" down block on my KLR and with the addition of the taller ATV bars is a great fit.

May have to "manufacture" my own bolck....................

I'm the same height as you and want to do the same thing. I think it will come down to butchering my own pegs. Interested to hear how you go.

[MotoBoss]

Originally Posted by threadkiller

You may also consider a higher seat. I use and recommend the SDG Tall.

Just added a new SeatConcepts seat, helpful but dosn't do much for you when standing. Pretty sure I'm going this route with cables http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...parts_id=10013.
Still going to come up with a peg lowering block of some kind. A friend of mine has a milling/CNC machine in his garage workshop and I'm asking for help !

[dasvis]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TheQuadShop

That's od, when I put that part number of 37820-36E00 into other sites like CheapCycleParts and Bike Bandit it comes up as the engine kill switch.

Nope, I installed one on my bike, it IS the remote trip meter reset. Works great! Much better than screwing with the little buttons on the istrument panel.

[Rwelch360]

I have about 750mi on my bike now, I tried my best to follow break in procedures for the first 500 miles. But i have been neglecting the no WOT for first 1000mi. My favorite thing to do is take off from a traffic light and rip through the gears. Plus on days I rode to work I would be at WOT on the highway to keep up with traffic. Anyone have any issues when they didn't follow initial break in procedures?

Second Question, do you have to trim the stock levers if you run cyrca bark busters? I was going to run tusk, but I didn't want to trim the levers down. I would rather buy shorter levers that I can just drop into the stock perches.

[coarsegoldkid]

I didn't trim the levers when installing the Cycra guards. Having said that Cycra guards were troublesome. I really don't think they fit any bike. You must massage them to get them to work. Some people bend them to fit. I did some cutting of the aluminum and I raised the bars but the mounts still were tight up against the instrument panel on the right side. The left side was tight up against the ignition switch. With a warehouse full of handlebars to choose from it would be easier. On the plus side they have performed well in slow speed earth moving.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by Rwelch360

I have about 750mi on my bike now, I tried my best to follow break in procedures for the first 500 miles. But i have been neglecting the no WOT for first 1000mi. My favorite thing to do is take off from a traffic light and rip through the gears. Plus on days I rode to work I would be at WOT on the highway to keep up with traffic. Anyone have any issues when they didn't follow initial break in procedures?

Second Question, do you have to trim the stock levers if you run cyrca bark busters? I was going to run tusk, but I didn't want to trim the levers down. I would rather buy shorter levers that I can just drop into the stock perches.

The engine needs to be loaded properly during the break-in period to get a good ring seal and a bit of WOT action is what is required. Riding it "like you stole it" all of the time or coddling it are both bad and I would think, going by what you have described, that you have done more good than harm so rest easy.

No idea about Cycra guards and short levers...

[The Recycled Teenager]

Originally Posted by dasvis

Nope, I installed one on my bike, it IS the remote trip meter reset. Works great! Much better than screwing with the little buttons on the istrument panel.

So for the folks at home
Where did you purchase it and is there a number for it

[8baller]

kind of new to this and after much research have decided a DRZ is what i want...looked at a few different options from KTM Husky DRZ XR DR etc etc and have made up my mind this bike is about the one that suits me best...
i know they have been out for a while and i cant see myself buying a new one..so i was wondering ..did they change them at all besides colors and graphics through the years?...or are there differences...if so what would be good years to look at?..and what would be good to look at when buying a used one?...thanks in advance..just dont want to buy something and be told later i would have been better off looking for this year or that year because of some performance issue or whatnot..

oh yeah..i want the S model...maybe an SM i could put some dirt wheels on