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Old 10-29-2012, 08:49 PM   #16291
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TheQuadShop View Post
That's od, when I put that part number of 37820-36E00 into other sites like CheapCycleParts and Bike Bandit it comes up as the engine kill switch.
Nope, I installed one on my bike, it IS the remote trip meter reset. Works great! Much better than screwing with the little buttons on the istrument panel.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:07 PM   #16292
Rwelch360
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is this bad??

I have about 750mi on my bike now, I tried my best to follow break in procedures for the first 500 miles. But i have been neglecting the no WOT for first 1000mi. My favorite thing to do is take off from a traffic light and rip through the gears. Plus on days I rode to work I would be at WOT on the highway to keep up with traffic. Anyone have any issues when they didn't follow initial break in procedures?

Second Question, do you have to trim the stock levers if you run cyrca bark busters? I was going to run tusk, but I didn't want to trim the levers down. I would rather buy shorter levers that I can just drop into the stock perches.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:35 PM   #16293
coarsegoldkid
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I didn't trim the levers when installing the Cycra guards. Having said that Cycra guards were troublesome. I really don't think they fit any bike. You must massage them to get them to work. Some people bend them to fit. I did some cutting of the aluminum and I raised the bars but the mounts still were tight up against the instrument panel on the right side. The left side was tight up against the ignition switch. With a warehouse full of handlebars to choose from it would be easier. On the plus side they have performed well in slow speed earth moving.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:37 AM   #16294
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis View Post
Nope, I installed one on my bike, it IS the remote trip meter reset. Works great! Much better than screwing with the little buttons on the istrument panel.
So for the folks at home
Where did you purchase it and is there a number for it
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:06 AM   #16295
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any differences between the years?

kind of new to this and after much research have decided a DRZ is what i want...looked at a few different options from KTM Husky DRZ XR DR etc etc and have made up my mind this bike is about the one that suits me best...
i know they have been out for a while and i cant see myself buying a new one..so i was wondering ..did they change them at all besides colors and graphics through the years?...or are there differences...if so what would be good years to look at?..and what would be good to look at when buying a used one?...thanks in advance..just dont want to buy something and be told later i would have been better off looking for this year or that year because of some performance issue or whatnot..

oh yeah..i want the S model...maybe an SM i could put some dirt wheels on
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:29 AM   #16296
Ryel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8baller View Post
i know they have been out for a while and i cant see myself buying a new one..so i was wondering ..did they change them at all besides colors and graphics through the years?...or are there differences...if so what would be good years to look at?..and what would be good to look at when buying a used one?...thanks in advance..just dont want to buy something and be told later i would have been better off looking for this year or that year because of some performance issue or whatnot..

oh yeah..i want the S model...maybe an SM i could put some dirt wheels on
maybe this would be of some help:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/642...e-drz-history/

there have been some changes from 2000-2004 so you would be best served to get a 2004-2012 model S; the SM suspension is not up to off road work. check the common fixs on the TT list and look for them on the bike you want to buy.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:35 AM   #16297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryel View Post
maybe this would be of some help:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/642...e-drz-history/

there have been some changes from 2000-2004 so you would be best served to get a 2004-2012 model S; the SM suspension is not up to off road work. check the common fixs on the TT list and look for them on the bike you want to buy.
thanks...i'll check that out as soon as i get off work
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:53 AM   #16298
150ron
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It seems as tho there is NO rim lock on the rear rim of my 2007 DRZ400S? is that so?

do people add them for off road use? (rear only)
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:13 AM   #16299
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I added rim locks to my S model.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #16300
Homercules
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8baller View Post
kind of new to this and after much research have decided a DRZ is what i want...looked at a few different options from KTM Husky DRZ XR DR etc etc and have made up my mind this bike is about the one that suits me best...
i know they have been out for a while and i cant see myself buying a new one..so i was wondering ..did they change them at all besides colors and graphics through the years?...or are there differences...if so what would be good years to look at?..and what would be good to look at when buying a used one?...thanks in advance..just dont want to buy something and be told later i would have been better off looking for this year or that year because of some performance issue or whatnot..

oh yeah..i want the S model...maybe an SM i could put some dirt wheels on
I converted my SM to offroad and it's been great. Not sure about the fork comments...the fork is set up for road work but when set up for offroad is fantastic. I prefer it to the old school S fork personally. If there is a problem it's the larger front rotor. I put Warp 9 wheels on my SM and they are ok. Just ok. (I have to re-true the wheels occasionally and the rotor is a bit warped) Throw on a bash plate and a gps (or vapor) for a speedo and you're set. But only get an SM if you plan to use it as a road bike as well otherwise just get an S.

Here's mine from a trip a few weeks ago. I forgot to put on the bash plate before I left.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #16301
ifixfords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
It seems as tho there is NO rim lock on the rear rim of my 2007 DRZ400S? is that so?

do people add them for off road use? (rear only)
I drill an extra hole in the wheels opposite of the pre-drilled rim lock hole. Then I use two of the light weight motion pro rim locks opposite each other. With two you can drop the air down really low for extra traction.

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Old 10-30-2012, 10:44 AM   #16302
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Rim locks are not a standard fit on these bikes. If you want them you'll need to add them yourself, but they are not really required until pressures are dropped below 15psi or so.

I have used Tubliss with its integral rim lock on the DR-Z since new.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
I added rim locks to my S model.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixfords View Post
I drill an extra hole in the wheels opposite of the pre-drilled rim lock hole. Then I use two of the light weight motion pro rim locks opposite each other. With two you can drop the air down really low for extra traction.

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Thanks guys,

looking at the bike, there is a hole (with what seems like a rubber grommet in it) about 6 inches or so away from the inner tube stem hole, is this a hole to fit a rim lock if someone wanted too? just remove the rubber cap thing that is in there?

if it is, then i can use that one, or drill another one like suggested by fixfords, wonder why they did not include one on the bike.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:12 AM   #16303
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
I added rim locks to my S model.
just to make sure, did you get the size 2.15 for the rear wheel?
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:18 AM   #16304
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
...wonder why they did not include one on the bike.
As previously said, for a dual-sport like the S which isn't likely to see ultra-low tire pressures, they're unnecessary, make tire changing more difficult, add weight, and contribute to wheel imbalance. I've only seen standard rim locks on off-road only bikes.

- Mark
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #16305
ifixfords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
Thanks guys,

looking at the bike, there is a hole (with what seems like a rubber grommet in it) about 6 inches or so away from the inner tube stem hole, is this a hole to fit a rim lock if someone wanted too? just remove the rubber cap thing that is in there?

if it is, then i can use that one, or drill another one like suggested by fixfords, wonder why they did not include one on the bike.
That is a hole for a rim lock and I just add another one opposite of it. Suzuki does not add one to keep the cost down, and most people will not miss it. I like using two, as I set the pressure low on a regular basis for the type of riding I do.
Definitely not necessary for fire roads and light trail riding. In fact as mentioned if you don't go below 15-20 psi, you really don't need a rim lock.

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