New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread

[tempeturtle]

Originally Posted by Leap of Faith

O.k, here it goes. should I be using the kill switch or the key to turn off my engine? On my older bikes I have always used the kill switch but when I read BMW manual it seems that the state for use on an emergency. Help!

The used the kill switch to turn both my BMW's off. The one on the F800gs broke off and I was told that I had to replace the whole switch part not just the switch arm which is very expensive. The BMW shop said that it was for emergencies only and not to be used to turn the bike off. They said use the key..... that is what I do now and never replaced the broken off red little arm.

[PatrickM]

Originally Posted by Leap of Faith

O.k, here it goes. should I be using the kill switch or the key to turn off my engine? On my older bikes I have always used the kill switch but when I read BMW manual it seems that the state for use on an emergency. Help!

No one said kickstand yet?!?

The problem with using anything but the key is if you don't get into the habit of turning the key and grabbing it, you may leave it in the bike and drain the battery.

[BillACK]

Originally Posted by 4TooMany

No they don't... they teach you to use the engine cut-off switch. :)

Whats the difference between the engine cut-off switch and the kill switch?

[4TooMany]

Originally Posted by BillACK

Whats the difference between the engine cut-off switch and the kill switch?

No difference. Just that the MSF doesn't call it a "kill" switch.

[itsatdm]

Just get in the habit of using the key. I usually put the kickstand town, remove my helmet and gloves.

If you have a direct wired GPS and forget, you could wake up on a frosty morning in a remote place with a dead battery.

[mischief]

Hey guys, I have a weird "gnashing" noise coming from the front end. It happens about 20 mph no matter what gear, accelerating or decelerating. The last time I had the front wheel off the bearings were fine and there isn't any side to side play, Nothing seems to be loose or binding and it only happens at or about 20 mph, has me stumped.
Also if one of you high fender guys would let loose of the stock fender, mine is cracked at one of the axle mounting points and I would be interested in buying your old one
Thx for any input
Christi

[Hicks]

Originally Posted by 4TooMany

No difference. Just that the MSF doesn't call it a "kill" switch.

AFAIK there is.

Using the key should be more gentle to the engine and maybe other stuff.

---

also, the kill switch is too vulnerable construction for daily use I think. And -- as others mentioned -- you cant but just the switch itself.

[4TooMany]

Originally Posted by Hicks

AFAIK there is.

Using the key should be more gentle to the engine and maybe other stuff.

My answer of "no difference" was between a "kill switch" and an "engine cut-off switch". They're just two ways of saying the same thing.

[CaliKarl]

Thanks for all your help for answering all my stupid questions. Now, I have one more for you. What is the cheapest, simplest way to get HID headlamps? Just switch the old bulbs with HID ones, or purchase one of the severly expensive kits from the likes of Adventure Designs? Thanks again.

[PatrickM]

Originally Posted by CaliKarl

Thanks for all your help for answering all my stupid questions. Now, I have one more for you. What is the cheapest, simplest way to get HID headlamps? Just switch the old bulbs with HID ones, or purchase one of the severly expensive kits from the likes of Adventure Designs? Thanks again.

Kit. The kit is the bulb, igniter and ballast. You'll swap out the bulb with the HID one, plug in your existing wiring harness to the ignitor and then follow the wiring from the ballast back to the new HID bulb.

Something around $35 should do just dandy in your low beams. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...rcycle-HID-Kit

You may not want to swap out your high beams because if you use them to flash, well HID's take a few seconds to warm up so defeats that purpose.

[Hicks]

Originally Posted by 4TooMany

My answer of "no difference" was between a "kill switch" and an "engine cut-off switch". They're just two ways of saying the same thing.

aha ok ;)

[HighFive]

Are there any fatbar options with different rise and pullback versus the stock bars which come with the same type of interior threaded bar ends as the OEM? I'd switch to Pro Taper Evo but I've become addicted to my Kako cruise lock which screws into those big OEM threads.

I've been looking at the bars on the 1200GSA and they look & feel a bit different than the F8 bars......might do the trick. Anybody tried that swap?

HF

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by HighFive

I've become addicted to my Kako cruise lock which screws into those big OEM threads.

My oem bars were bent in an off. Didn't want to buy the same but yes to throttle lock. Used helicoil inserts to recreate. I had a thread but Apple nuked all pics.

This should give you a good idea of how I kept it.

[HighFive]

Sweeeet idea! Love Helicoils and didn't even think of it. What size did it require? And just to be certain, are you also using the Kayko? You didn't say exactly.

HF.

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Sweeeet idea! Love Helicoils and didn't even think of it. What size did it require? And just to be certain, are you also using the Kayko? You didn't say exactly.

HF.

Size was m12 x 1.75. I used longest in the kit, I think 28m. This fits the oem hand guard fastener. Expect a loose fit insert to bar (you could epoxy if you like) but snug when finished with hand guard fasteners.

My throttle lock is the Wunderlich fit with oem hand guards.