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Old 10-30-2012, 09:13 PM   #61
jimmex
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Nice RR. I was just ahead of you on the Hwy 16 and Creel, Parral route. It was beautiful. Also really like the Rancho el Murillo. It has a very pleasant old world charm and the proprietors are friendly.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:25 AM   #62
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Nice RR. I was just ahead of you on the Hwy 16 and Creel, Parral route. It was beautiful. Also really like the Rancho el Murillo. It has a very pleasant old world charm and the proprietors are friendly.
Thanks for following jimmex.

Mexico sure has a lot of roads that could just be done over and over again and not get tired of them.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:23 PM   #63
Ruan
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Loving the RR. Keep it coming, pls
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:06 AM   #64
going south
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Real de Catorce, looks & sounds amazing.... it is now moved up a few notches on my list

Thanks for taking the time...
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #65
Pedro Navaja
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The horse ride was probably up to the ghost town. I hope you took pictures for us. Glad you liked Norma's place in Saltillo.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:24 PM   #66
GuateRider
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I keep on enjoying your RR
The pictures from real de catorce brought back a lot of good memories from our 2 week long stay there on our way up north. BTW, I had quiet a few beers with Milo back then
Tonight we are staying in the hotel San Martin in Hermosillo , thx for mentioning it !!
Ride safe !
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:53 AM   #67
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Loving the RR. Keep it coming, pls
Glad you are enjoying it Ruan. Thanks for following

Quote:
Originally Posted by going south View Post
Real de Catorce, looks & sounds amazing.... it is now moved up a few notches on my list

Thanks for taking the time...
Real de Catorce was on my list of places to see but always seemed out of the way. I'm really glad I went. While not as much of a "typical" Mexican town, it is a pretty relaxing place.

Appreciate the comments.

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The horse ride was probably up to the ghost town. I hope you took pictures for us. Glad you liked Norma's place in Saltillo.
Pics in a few minutes. Many of these places like Norma's and some others, I could spend a lot more time there. Very comfortable.

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I keep on enjoying your RR
The pictures from real de catorce brought back a lot of good memories from our 2 week long stay there on our way up north. BTW, I had quiet a few beers with Milo back then
Tonight we are staying in the hotel San Martin in Hermosillo , thx for mentioning it !!
Ride safe !
Glad you enjoyed them. Wow - 2 weeks, now that is doing it right.

I got the Hemosillo tip from a couple of others so, glad to pass it on.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:32 AM   #68
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Oct 26
Quick history of this fascinating town. Started silver mining in the area a little over 200 years ago which industry ebbed and flowed depending on the Mexican political situation. Around the early 1900’s started getting some foreign capital in, they built the tunnel into town and for awhile the area was a significant producer of silver in the world. Production finally petered out and the town declined to a few hundred hardy souls. Somebody decided they should capitalize on tourism and the town has reestablished itself solely on that industry. Really enjoyed it.


Went to the only ATM machine in town for about the 6
th time and got the “can’t connect to your Bank” message. Which I think roughly translated means it is almost out of cash and we’ll save it for our own customers so, take a hike. Kinda running thin on kish-cash but should make it ok.

Go and find Emilio, one of the “Approved” horse tour guides and decided on a three hour ride up a neighboring mountain.

My faithful steed, Dollar, and I worked our way up the mountain with Emilio on his mule. It was actually a lot of fun.






Went through some old mine ruins on the way.



That's me, playing a bad imitation of someone who really knows how to ride – have not been on a horse for at least 30 years



The remains of some old houses



Got to the top and then had to pony up another $20p to some guy who appeared out of nowhere for "permission" to walk the trail to the top. Took about 15 minutes walking down that trail but something substantially longer going up as I was breathing pretty heavy as we were around 10,000 feet altitude. Here is Emilio trying to look busy so maybe I won’t want him to walk up with me . . . Ha!



Fantastic views of the flatlands below.






At the top there was a big ceremonial circle with a bunch of things people had made. Further up was a small building with all sorts of stuff in it. Emilio tells me the natives come up here to do their spiritual thing which involves consumption of parts of the local cactus, peyote. The natives have apparently been using this stuff for a few thousand years. When the peyote is available for harvest they apparently have a pilgrimage of sorts of natives from other areas.






Coming back – some of the houses in Real






I found the Mexican saddle interesting – much larger horn and hardly any leather



Across the street from the hotel was this big Mexican transformer. It was getting pretty long in the tooth and the more I looked at it, the funnier it got.



The steel poles are dual purpose – hold up the transformer and stop runaway cars. Useful in this town
.



Oh, and don’t forget to thread those wires through the steel structure . . .



There has been a big church service both nights I have been here. Apparently in connection with a religious festival that lasts more than a month. Quite a few will pilgrimage here to participate which all contributes a bit to the local tourism.

Like most churches, they ring their bells regularly and when they were still ringing away at 11 PM and waking me up, I figured that was ok as some poor junior Monk has to get up and pull on those ropes – picturing Lon Chenay pulling on the ropes. Then looking at the church during the day, I notice they have speakers stuck all around the bells – they have it on automatic – no Junior Monk, no hunchback . . .

Ate dinner in the Hotel dinning room. Had the rabbit – outstanding!





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Old 11-02-2012, 07:03 AM   #69
GaryWild
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Rex,
Good call to take the horse up. Great old architecture up there, enjoyed the pics. I also liked the up close transformer shots and saddle details.
Have fun, the team and I are thinking of you here,
Gary
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:52 AM   #70
Jick Magger
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Rexbuck

Real de Cortace looks like a winner. Great pics and man do you look at home on that steed. No really you do.
Thanks for the great photos and I will be sure to put this place on the list. Keep it coming. Enjoying the report.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:09 PM   #71
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Rex,
Good call to take the horse up. Great old architecture up there, enjoyed the pics. I also liked the up close transformer shots and saddle details.
Have fun, the team and I are thinking of you here,
Gary
Thanks Gary
Those guys did amazing things with rock - it's a pretty bountiful resource in much of the country where wood is scarce. Everything from roads to buildings.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:17 PM   #72
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Rexbuck

Real de Cortace looks like a winner. Great pics and man do you look at home on that steed. No really you do.
Thanks for the great photos and I will be sure to put this place on the list. Keep it coming. Enjoying the report.
Hey Jick, glad to have you along. Catorce is a cool and unique town - I could easily come back.

To show you how good of a horseman I am, here is a pic I took when Dollar decided to start trotting downhill - see the results of being one with the horse? You could learn something here




Oh, and thanks for keeping the economy rolling along . . . we old guys appreciate it.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:20 PM   #73
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Oct 27 Leaving Real

Took my time getting the bike out of its parking space on the “sidewalk”. Straighten the bike out, get it on the road, navigate up the little bit of hill past the guy across the road with his Land Rover's (with bald tires) door open, head down a one way street the wrong way (cause it was the easiest) and around to the bottom of the street the hotel is on. Haul my heavy stuff down and head off through the low hanging ropes and throngs of people.

Was the only one to go out through the tunnel so the guy hands me the baton to deliver to the other side. Since the tunnel is one way, keeps things orderly. Whole whack of people over there waiting for the baton to come back so they can come into town. Half dozen or so tour buses sitting there – they can’t go through the tunnel so the people are hauled in on donkey drawn wagons. I think this is the end of the Catholic celebrations in town so I’m guessing these are worshipers.

Was cloudy and windy when I got up but no rain - whew! However, when I got out the other side of the tunnel, there was a light rain and the first 8 km or so had a few sphincter clenching moments as the bike slid a bit here and there on the wet cobblestones.

Heading to Ciudad Valles and rather than take the straightest route, which is largely flat and straight, decided to detour a bit to get a few km of nice roads. GPS, as usual, was quite confused and had me on all sorts of nasty side streets in the town of Tule . . . I finally took the bull by the horns and went where I thought I should and eventually the GPS agreed to me. If two are wrong, doesn’t make it any righter . . . after going up more crappy dead end steep dirt roads, asked a couple of guys where the highway was and turned out I was one block off . . . the other way from where I was trying to go. Idiot!

Road to Ocampo is pretty nice, twists up in the hills – only problem was there was some pretty low clouds making it foggy and wet and couldn’t see Jack so, I just took my time.

Staying at the Hotel San Fernando in Ciudad Valles, an old hotel with big rooms and lots of hardwood but it is a bit long in the tooth. A a lot cheaper than Mision Valles I stayed at last time – wasn’t in the mood for fancy schmancy.

Sorry, no pics today
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:39 PM   #74
SR
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Hi RexBuck, I just found this thread. Great to see you are back on the road. We will be following right along. Subscribed!

Suerte!

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Old 11-04-2012, 04:44 PM   #75
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Oct 28 - They day I hoped wouldn’t end.


Holy cow! Started off on Hwy 70
west from Ciudad Valles and I immediately began to recognize it – man was it fun. Last winter when I rode the same road it was also a Sunday so no trucks. What a blast. Looks like they are just about done with the new cuota so, should take most of the weekday traffic and leave this sweet little bit for the odd motorcycle.

When I got to the small town of Rayon I headed south hoping to find some back roads. Had a couple of alternatives and when the first alternative turned into a rocky, muddy road in the thick fog, I figured I’d have enough of that later and moved on to plan B over to Hwy 69.


Peńalmiler proved to be another typical town for me. Head in, don’t notice any signs and now I’m wandering around town. Find what looks like a highway and head out. GPS says nope! Nice road so I ride it for awhile. Better go back – ask an old guy directions and wind up on the highway that I came in on. Turn around. After a few GPS recalcualtions, find the right road – wasn’t sure at first as a bit ratty but it improved.


Just about the whole ride today was rural twisted roads. It was a fairly long day for me and many times I’d hope it wouldn’t end. It was just such a blast. Incredible views, incredible roads. Just about every road was twisted with fantastic views. I think Hwy 120 from Japon to where I turned off to go to Peńamiller was easily in my top 5 Mexico roads and may even be vying for number one. One of the best days riding I have had.


Talking about being a "long day for me" - I find I am less prone to really long days . . . like I used to. Somebodys ride report I read established the 3-3-3 rule: No more than 300 miles a day, finish by 3 in the afternoon and no more than 3 beers. The first one is the easiest – when you are riding back roads in Mexico, either the twisties or the topes will slow you way down and 300 miles or 500 km is lots - today was about 470 km. The second one . . . sometimes I can knock off early , and the third one – I actually try to stick to that one, not always successfully, but the intention is there.


Not a lot of pics today – I was trying to rely on my GoPro and the remote I finally got hooked up to take on the go pics. Had some technical problems so didn’t get a lot.


Trees overgrowing the road – trucks keep them trimmed and create a tunnel effect




This guy was just grazing on the side of the road.




Same with video – the first part of Hwy 120 was much different than the second. This video is a small part of the downhill ride.






Arrived in San Miguel de Allende just as the sun was setting so the timing was perfect. I’m embarrassed to reveal that I’m staying at the Best Western. It seems that so many of the hotels here are crazy priced and the one that seems to come up as a frequent recommendation on ADV has no internet. (The gadget guy needs his connection with the world if he is going to stay in one place for 3 days).


Will check out SMA tomorrow.

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