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Old 11-02-2012, 06:57 PM   #15106
jesusgatos
fishing with dynamite
 
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Location: on the road
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That's sort of a chronic problem if you want to run the rear wheel towards the front of the adjustment slots (handles better). But we're making some carbon/kevlar mudflaps that should pretty much solve that problem. Only thing is I can't tell you when they might be available or how much they'll end up costing...

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Old 11-02-2012, 07:03 PM   #15107
ride4fun562
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Thanks for your help guys, and i like that mudflap . I was assuming that it would be bad/annoying sounding for the rear tire to rub on the flap but it seems like from what you are saying that it does more damage to the mudflap than it would to the tire ? I think a 120/90 18 would be perfect but just my luck maxxis doesent make them that size. So i guess ill go with the same tire 120/100 and just deal with replacing mud flaps alot

ride4fun562 screwed with this post 11-02-2012 at 07:19 PM
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:17 PM   #15108
jesusgatos
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No, nothing to worry about.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:26 PM   #15109
Shibby!
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Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
Thanks for your help guys, and i like that mudflap . I was assuming that it would be bad/annoying sounding for the rear tire to rub on the flap but it seems like from what you are saying that it does more damage to the mudflap than it would to the tire ? I think a 120/90 18 would be perfect but just my luck maxxis doesent make them that size. So i guess ill go with the same tire 120/100 and just deal with replacing mud flaps alot

Just stop replacing them. They won't wear any more but replacing it will wear out within 10 miles of a new tire. Trust me, I've gone through a few and just stopped.

Keep an eye on your swingarm for wear, but even that can be fixed with some JB weld. The tire shouldn't hit the frame, but the cut portions of the flap could cause a bit more friction in places the swingarm wasn't designed for it. Layer of epoxy on this would make the epoxy wear and not the aluminum. Not really an issue just comes into affect after A LOT of miles.

I have 24000 km on "worn" mudflaps. No issues.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:30 PM   #15110
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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Alright gents I need a couple extra opinions on my current situation. I can't get my bike to start again after it died the other day. It was running fine on a new engine rebuild until I turned into the bar and it sputtered and died. I figured it was low on fuel and didn't bother with it. When I went to leave I couldn't get it to start. It hasn't started since.

I have:
  1. New fuel
  2. new petcock
  3. new fuel line
  4. new spark plug
  5. Checked for spark(has spark on spark tester and when holding plug to head)
  6. Top end is fresh(new piston/rings/valves/seals/tensioner/cam chain etc less than 8 engine hours ago)
  7. Checked cam chain, cam timing, valve clearance(all in spec)
  8. Checked wiring
  9. Cleaned the carb thoroughly ( tore it down completely and had it dunked over the weekend by the local machine shop)
  10. Attempted bump starting (the bike only locks the back tire, I need a bigger hill)

After the carb cleaning it would periodically fire 3-4 revolutions then die. Barely more than the spin of the kick. Starting fluid has no effect other than raising the amount of backfires.

I swapped on my recently rebuilt HS40 Carb (mikuni tm40) to see if it was still a plugged pilot circuit. No change except it will fire 3-4 revolutions every other kick now. I think that is because the accelerator pump allows me to toss fuel in. I didn't want to add another variable(new carb) but I wanted to rule out the stock carb as the issue.

So my thinking is that it could be one of a few things:

Unlikely:
  1. Loss of compression(it is still more difficult to kick than before rebuilt so it appears to have compression)
  2. CDI(only failure symptoms I can find say that there is no spark with a dead cdi, I have spark so probably not cdi)
  3. Stator(the wires to the stator appear fine and I could not find any cuts or abrasions)
  4. Plugged pilot circuit in both carbs (I checked both thoroughly, especially the hs40)

Probable:

  1. Misadjusted idle in both carbs (I have moved the idle screws around while trying to start it)
  2. Coil

My current thinking is that I have spark but the bike won't fire more than 3-4 revolutions so the spark may be weak causing it to only be able to overcome compression at low rpm. High rpm blows out the weak spark. That makes me think that the coil is the issue. It could be the idle is so out of whack it won't start or the pilot circuit is still clogged. I'm completely guessing at this point though and I'm leaning toward coil.

Can the coil or stator be tested?

Any other ideas?
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:19 AM   #15111
Kiko
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Did you check the ground wire on the coil to frame connection? Try to find another CDI and swap it out. Test the pick up coil.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:54 AM   #15112
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 582
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post

I like that , very good idea ,
i just bought new mudflap rode the bike for 10 minutes and its all scratched already - bad design , it is too soft and it moves when you ride then the wheel and the chain eat it away fast , one solution would be to take it out and put something on the back of it ( plastic plate ) to make it stronger/stiffer to stop it from flapping around .
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:46 PM   #15113
Desert Scoundrel
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Location: Lakewood Co
Oddometer: 131
Does anyone has any experience with the Acerbis Sahara underseat tank? I see a few websites still have some in stock. I know you need the seat to fit the tank aswell. I was wondering about the seat height, is it higher than stock? and how well does the tank fit? Any other problems?
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:16 PM   #15114
Sean-0
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seat is highr than stock ..they fit ok from what i have seen .. they have been known to split

weight is high ..not a good idea IMO
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #15115
Desert Scoundrel
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Location: Lakewood Co
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Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
seat is highr than stock ..they fit ok from what i have seen .. they have been known to split

weight is high ..not a good idea IMO


Do you know how much height the seat is from stock? The bike is already too tall for me so even higher is too high! Hmmmm, I dont like the splitting though, that isn't cool. Thanks
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:31 PM   #15116
Jayrod1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
That's sort of a chronic problem if you want to run the rear wheel towards the front of the adjustment slots (handles better). But we're making some carbon/kevlar mudflaps that should pretty much solve that problem. Only thing is I can't tell you when they might be available or how much they'll end up costing...

This is just protecting the shock and possibly keeping dirt/mud off the linkages. Just get a shock cover. I've seen ones that velcro on. I've also seen some home made out of pantyhose. just don't look like a creep buying some pantyhose at walmart.
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:43 PM   #15117
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Alright gents I need a couple extra opinions on my current situation. I can't get my bike to start again after it died the other day. It was running fine on a new engine rebuild until I turned into the bar and it sputtered and died. I figured it was low on fuel and didn't bother with it. When I went to leave I couldn't get it to start. It hasn't started since.

I have:
  1. New fuel
  2. new petcock
  3. new fuel line
  4. new spark plug
  5. Checked for spark(has spark on spark tester and when holding plug to head)
  6. Top end is fresh(new piston/rings/valves/seals/tensioner/cam chain etc less than 8 engine hours ago)
  7. Checked cam chain, cam timing, valve clearance(all in spec)
  8. Checked wiring
  9. Cleaned the carb thoroughly ( tore it down completely and had it dunked over the weekend by the local machine shop)
  10. Attempted bump starting (the bike only locks the back tire, I need a bigger hill)

After the carb cleaning it would periodically fire 3-4 revolutions then die. Barely more than the spin of the kick. Starting fluid has no effect other than raising the amount of backfires.

I swapped on my recently rebuilt HS40 Carb (mikuni tm40) to see if it was still a plugged pilot circuit. No change except it will fire 3-4 revolutions every other kick now. I think that is because the accelerator pump allows me to toss fuel in. I didn't want to add another variable(new carb) but I wanted to rule out the stock carb as the issue.

So my thinking is that it could be one of a few things:

Unlikely:
  1. Loss of compression(it is still more difficult to kick than before rebuilt so it appears to have compression)
  2. CDI(only failure symptoms I can find say that there is no spark with a dead cdi, I have spark so probably not cdi)
  3. Stator(the wires to the stator appear fine and I could not find any cuts or abrasions)
  4. Plugged pilot circuit in both carbs (I checked both thoroughly, especially the hs40)

Probable:

  1. Misadjusted idle in both carbs (I have moved the idle screws around while trying to start it)
  2. Coil

My current thinking is that I have spark but the bike won't fire more than 3-4 revolutions so the spark may be weak causing it to only be able to overcome compression at low rpm. High rpm blows out the weak spark. That makes me think that the coil is the issue. It could be the idle is so out of whack it won't start or the pilot circuit is still clogged. I'm completely guessing at this point though and I'm leaning toward coil.

Can the coil or stator be tested?

Any other ideas?
The only way I was able to get my bike to re-start after I re-jetted and cleaned my carb was a push start. I had the idle way too high!
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:54 PM   #15118
Capt. Egregious
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Location: Where the sewer meets the sea, Edmonds Wa
Oddometer: 376
The aftermath of 24 hours of Starvation ridge. The conditions were very nasty.





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Old 11-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #15119
Desertdweller
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal IE
Oddometer: 79
Tire

[QUOTE=Capt. Egregious;19963219]The aftermath of 24 hours of Starvation ridge. The conditions were very nasty.

What front tire do you have on that thing?
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:14 PM   #15120
Desertdweller
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Location: SoCal IE
Oddometer: 79
Speedometer/Odometer

[QUOTE=Capt. Egregious;19963219]The aftermath of 24 hours of Starvation ridge. The conditions were very nasty.

I notice you have what looks like a speedometer/odometer mounted above the stabilizer (on the bars?). What brand/model is it? I'm having trouble finding one that doesn't conflict with the stabilizer when making turns. Do you use the stock cable with it?
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