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Old 11-02-2012, 02:53 AM   #16
ME 109 OP
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Number 14 I'll replace with a bearing. Apparently it's a good improvement.
The pawl spring has been on my mind to do. Apparently it's a contentious issue to some?
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:08 AM   #17
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Yes, the pawl spring can break on you at almost any time while on the road. A regular happening at the larger gatherings of Airheads is the one or sometimes two people with broken pawl springs. The transmission will not shift and will be stuck in what ever gear it was in when the spring broke. If in 3rd gear you might get to ride it home providing it's highways to your house. If it's in second gear you might get around the neighborhood. It it's stuck in 5th gear you might burn up the clutch getting home.

To fix is not an impossibility on the road. Need some time, the rear flange puller (for the drive shaft out put flange) and a new spring. Also very helpful to have a propane torch (but you can also buy one of those)

It is also possible to put your trans in a suitable gear to get home by using a piece of wire stuck in the filler hole to move the shifting cams. I say possible but I've never tried it. Don't know if I would be able to make sense of this method of shifting.

SOP anytime the trans is opened for any reason is to replace the pawl spring.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:08 PM   #18
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I never replace them unless they are broken or the customer insists. I have seen too many just installed springs break to think you are better off with a new one.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I never replace them unless they are broken or the customer insists. I have seen too many just installed springs break to think you are better off with a new one.
That's my point about the spring change being a contentious issue.
I did have a spring break one time, a fair way from home. But It was in 4th so I managed.

Consider though, that the spring in my tranny is at least 13 years old.........
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:27 PM   #20
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I have a spring in my R100 that is 20 years old and one in my LS that is 29 years old. I haven't worried about them in the past and I am not going to start worrying about them in the future. Chances are reallly good that they will be just fine as they are.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:00 PM   #21
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I agree that the pall spring is best left alone. There were other reasons for them breaking besides getting old, like binding or who knows what.

Also, it's also possible the roller bearing instead of nylon roller isn't the best idea as it can cause wear. The nylon rollers work just fine.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:09 AM   #22
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I have seen a couple of nylon rollers split but . . . . I have tried the metal roller and I don't like the feel of them. They make me think I am on a K bike. Oh the horror!
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:10 AM   #23
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A couple of worthy points there chaps re the feel of the metal roller against the nylon, and the wear considerations.
I like to use my tranny 10/10, so any little improvements/precautions are most appreciated.

Gotta pull 5th gear off to make sure whether it's a X or not.
My bike is a 9/81 build so it should be a pre X.
I think.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:04 AM   #24
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Got the 5th gear off and it's a pre-x
Taller 5th it will be for me.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #25
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I guess I'm out voted on the pawl spring. I replaced mine because that's what I was told to do when I rebuilt mine. I wasn't a member of this list then so I did not get any other advice.

I'd really like to know why sometimes they break and other times they don't. Why do the originals from BMW last but the replacements from BMW break? But I don't hold out much hope will really know WHY? will we?
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I'd really like to know why sometimes they break and other times they don't. Why do the originals from BMW last but the replacements from BMW break? But I don't hold out much hope will really know WHY? will we?
A metallurgist with a bloody good microscope would be a start.
Minute fracturing resulting from the initial manufacturing bending process would be my guess, as a result of etc, etc.


I'm interested to learn how to achieve .05mm end play with .2, .28, .38 and .5mm shims. Guess I'll find out.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:47 PM   #27
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I'm interested to learn how to achieve .05mm end play with .2, .28, .38 and .5mm shims. Guess I'll find out.
I don't know if it is a recommended way to do this but you can make those washers any size you want by lapping them properly. If you needed one .25 start with the .28, if you want one .30 start with the .38. Using a very fine sandpaper, I would do this with 1500, and putting oil on the paper on a known flat surface, the selected shim is rotated in a figure 8 pattern. Object is an even wearing of the metal by distributing the uneven forces evenly. (boy I hope I said that one right)

I have lapped stuff this way but not those particular shims.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:54 PM   #28
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Probably need two flat surfaces, both with 1500 or thereabouts and the shim sandwiched in between.
Don't think that would be a regular occurrence with tranny rebuilds tho?
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:55 PM   #29
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You also get shims in a different selection of sizes from Cycle Works. So some of theirs and the OEM shims are usually enough.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:42 AM   #30
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I've started to replace bearings and have stopped at the rear bearing on the input shaft.

How do I get that bearing off, without damaging the thin steel plate behind the bearing?

I have changed all the other bearings (except the front input shaft)

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