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Old 10-29-2012, 03:18 PM   #16
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser View Post
Starting to think about hiding some electrical gizmos.
There's a lot of room under the rear of the tank,
huge tunnel.
Any foreseeable complications to putting stuff in there?
if you're putting a yboot in, there will be space under the seat..... probably easier to access.. and you removed oil tank right? lotsa space.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:24 PM   #17
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yboot for sure.
That airbox was a bastard to remove.
Oil tank is gone too.

Oh there's tons of space all over, definitely room under the seat.
I just wanted to do a good job of tiding up the bike.
Seemed like under the tank was a good spot to jam some crap.

I gotta figure my seat up soon too.
Have some fibreglass and crap,
never tried it before.
Maybe it's about time I did.

Shucks, got all winter.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:42 PM   #18
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That airbox was a bastard to remove.
.
there is no doubt about that. at first it seems they built the bike around the airbox.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:49 AM   #19
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Playing around.

Took this whole mess of junk,
which was bolted on under the right side cover



And the damn thing just slides under the tank and sits on the rails!



I don't know if this is how it'll be,
but it sure is kinda neat how well it slid right in there and fits.

--------

Finished up the brackets for my FZR rearsets



I just need some longer allthread and the shifter should be good to go.




I really need help brainstorming for the brake side.
Somehow have to get the stick lined up with the master cylinder.




I thought about mounting the MC on the outside,
but it sticks out crazy far.
I feel like I might have to move it, but I'm not sure exactly.

*if anyone has pics to share of disc brake RD rearsets, I'd love to see some close ups!!!
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:29 PM   #20
Kai Ju
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Would a z shaped rod work ? Tilt the M/C forward a bit and get a brake rod that goes behind the frame tube.
Or find a more modern M/C that doesn't have the brake light hydraulic switch plumbing and bolt it to the outside like you already tried.
Or, get rid of that switch, plug the hole and bolt it to the outside.
In either case use one the readily available conventional brake light switches to actuate the rear brake light.

I used to have a Geneva green RD, as well as the Blue, and wish I still had them. Oh well.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:46 PM   #21
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Would a z shaped rod work ? Tilt the M/C forward a bit and get a brake rod that goes behind the frame tube.
I don't know, would it?
It looks like it should.
I might be able to use a length of threaded rod and bend it just right.
Seems almost too easy.

Going to have to try it. Just wish places around here sold metric allthread.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:41 PM   #22
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When I made the shift linkage for my home made rear sets on my Beemer I bought 1/4" rod, carefully sanded it down on both ends to just under 6mm and ran my 6x1.0 mm die over it.

You only have to do one end, the other end is a slip fit inside the M/C

I found aluminum rod as well as steel at the local Ace hardware store.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:42 AM   #23
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good thinking.
Have you tried a zrod before?

I can definitely make something that would line up.
the concern is: i'm not sure how its going to react when the lever is pushed.
It's going to be so far away from the center axis,
and the pivot,
that I'm thinking it might rotate, instead of move up and down.

I really can't wrap my head around it until I try it out,
but I will.
and will report back.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser View Post
I might be able to use a length of threaded rod and bend it just right.
Seems almost too easy.

Going to have to try it. Just wish places around here sold metric allthread.

don't use allthread for linkage, it will break (especially if you bend the rod into another shape).. just thread the ends of plain rod...
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:07 AM   #25
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another idea

Can you move the M/C up to where the bottom mounting hole is at the top ? All you'd need is a straight bracket with three holes in order to mount the M/C.
If so, then all you have to do is make a longer rod, which will need very little of a bend to work.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:01 PM   #26
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well I think I can use the original mounting point and use a z rod.
I mocked up one with a wire clothes hanger,
seemed that it should work.
Hopefully I'll be able to find something laying around this weekend that I could use.

-----

Dove into the wiring today.
Got everything out of the bucked.
I'm going to trim out stuff I won't use.
Things like the oil gizmo that went to the tank,
Idiot lights, etc.
This is my first major solo wiring gig.
Going to learn some shit I figure.

Let's start.
What are these things:







What are they called and what do they do?
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:56 AM   #27
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you gots a flasher, a flasher cancel unit, and a resistor. they make magic.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:32 AM   #28
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really?
blinkers need 2 gizmos to work?
fucking pussies.

The one that's jammed inside the frame...
the flasher,
I can move that thing wherever, right?
It's not like he needs to be concealed in the cover of darkness, does he?
Grab and pull? Seemed almost like there was something holding it in there.


I was up in the air about touching any of this crap.
I guess I got a little itchy last night

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Old 11-04-2012, 01:23 PM   #29
stainlesscycle
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really?
blinkers need 2 gizmos to work?
fucking pussies.
yeah. 2 gizmos.

i misspoke. voltage regulator not resistor (although in essence the same thing.)
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:05 PM   #30
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It's like I'm decorating a christmas tree



Absolutely no idea what I'm doing.
Really just lining things up by point of origin and destination.
What's the deal with all the brown wires? Jeezaloo.
They seem to be all connected together,
figuring on attaching them all to a terminal bus,
like I'm planning on with the grounds.
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