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Old 11-06-2012, 12:57 PM   #61
LandsVW OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
eeeh


the rings do move...since they ALL move its likely that they all are relatively in the same position when rebuilt...the actual piston has a circular motion to it...there is a little play at the rod, a little at the pin...etc...
...
A little Google research has piston rings moving about 1 revolution per 1000 rpms, give or take. The 3 part oil ring probably moves as a unit (especially important to space them correctly), and all of them move relative to each other, so 'theoretically' my engine should smoke or not smoke just as much as it did before the timing chain broke the guide, LOL.

I do realize I'm doing this part sorta risky like, but that's ok, I'm aware of the risk and am willing to get it running first, then tear it down again if I need to.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:10 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by LandsVW View Post
A little Google research has piston rings moving about 1 revolution per 1000 rpms, give or take. The 3 part oil ring probably moves as a unit (especially important to space them correctly), and all of them move relative to each other, so 'theoretically' my engine should smoke or not smoke just as much as it did before the timing chain broke the guide, LOL.

I do realize I'm doing this part sorta risky like, but that's ok, I'm aware of the risk and am willing to get it running first, then tear it down again if I need to.

oh yeah, here's my reference, LOL

http://www.sacskyranch.com/piston_ring_rotation.htm

When I was rebuilding 2 strokes 'back in the day' they had a pin in the ring groove, specifically designed so that the end of the ring didn't rotate around and get into either the exhaust or intake port (can't remember which one right now).

cam chain feels tight. I lightly burnished the timing chain tensioner shaft and with the new spring seems to be doing what it is supposed to do.

Tonight I might be able to finish the engine assembly - if all goes well...
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:23 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by redprimo View Post
This is so true. On the xl500 basket case that I picked up and transported for a buddy it came to me sans the seat, cam, and cam chain. I still have his front and rear fender but I reaized that as I was unloading everything from my truck into his garage. Then yeasterday I found a rear brake backing plate that is not from any of my bikes.

Good luck on the house thing.
Thanks on the house! It is another saga of epicly boring proportions that is dragging on and on...

Here's a quick story of my worst basket case move and reassemble. My dad (lives in Fairbanks Alaska) drove to Minnesota in his 2000 Toyota RAV-4. On the way back (very cold, -35 - -45 F) the rear seal blew, dumped his oil, and ruined the engine. A Canadian Toyota dealership took it apart. They then quoted him some outrageous price to rebuild. So, he bundled all the parts, bolted the subframe back under it, threw the engine/tranny in the back and towed it back to Fairbanks. That was in January of 2008. He proceeded to buy one of those low mile Japanese recycle engines. THEN in May he offered to buy me a plane ticket to fly up and reassemble. I did, but what a job! Toyota parts all over the place, 2 engines with different external components, buckets of bolts, a half-reassembled sub frame. Oh, then to top it off, They had a minor flood that year so the water had gotten in to the Toyota exhaust system and the rear wheel bearings. Got it done though, and the car is still running fine! Oh yeah, I love a good challenge! (or a bad one)
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #64
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yeah thats me!

cept its a 2 year younger xr600 than yours

cheers
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:38 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp View Post
Lock up anything rotating in relation to the clutch and then apply a torque wrench

Stick a penny between the gears behind the clutch basket. Nothing will turn and the penny is soft enough that it will not damage the gears.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:26 PM   #66
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Sorry about the lame picture. Here's possibly a novel way (haven't seen it before anyway) of holding the clutch basket while center nut is being torqued: put a penny in the gear under the clutch basket. Put another penny at top of clutch plates. Use C-clamp and tighten against the bottom of clutch basket and the penny. It doesn't really have to be very tight, just snug. Torque the nut to 80 ft pounds! Couldn't figure out how to hold the center from spinning w/o some elaborate method, special tool, or fabrication so came up with this tonight...

I have my engine right side all put together.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:34 PM   #67
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Here's the beast as bought:

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Old 11-07-2012, 01:16 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by LandsVW View Post
Sorry about the lame picture. Here's possibly a novel way (haven't seen it before anyway) of holding the clutch basket while center nut is being torqued: put a penny in the gear under the clutch basket. Put another penny at top of clutch plates. Use C-clamp and tighten against the bottom of clutch basket and the penny. It doesn't really have to be very tight, just snug. Torque the nut to 80 ft pounds! Couldn't figure out how to hold the center from spinning w/o some elaborate method, special tool, or fabrication so came up with this tonight...

I have my engine right side all put together.
This is my way to turn a nut.

Quote:
Cheerful bike in the back of the garage.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:30 PM   #69
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This is my way to turn a nut.



Cheerful bike in the back of the garage.
I thought of something like that, had seen it before... The cheerful bike is not mine, darn it all! Mine is a not so cheerful bike still disassembled - but hopefully getting better!
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:48 PM   #70
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engine sits in frame as of last night! a few bolts seem to be missing on several brackets. I'll try and tighten a few bolts tonight. Cold weather, possible snow. Not motorcycle weather that's for sure...
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:40 PM   #71
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bolts were found... How does the wire route from the ignition trigger on the right side to up under the tank? I can see all sorts of ways it could be burned by the exhaust pipe etc... also, found a 1 inch by about 4 inches in diameter black rubber band. It's torn in two. I can't see where it came from? I'll post pictures if necessary. Carbs aren't in, but I do have spark. I figure I should kick it over until I have oil at the banjo bolts at the head before I install spark plug?
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:36 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by LandsVW View Post
bolts were found... How does the wire route from the ignition trigger on the right side to up under the tank? I can see all sorts of ways it could be burned by the exhaust pipe etc... also, found a 1 inch by about 4 inches in diameter black rubber band. It's torn in two. I can't see where it came from? I'll post pictures if necessary. Carbs aren't in, but I do have spark. I figure I should kick it over until I have oil at the banjo bolts at the head before I install spark plug?
If you did not use assembly lube in the top end, you can put about 1/2 qt. of oil (out of the total amount needed to fill) in the top end via one of the valve adjustment ports. Then start the engine once you are prepared to loosen the line you mentioned to be sure oil is flowing before riding.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:05 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp View Post
If you did not use assembly lube in the top end, you can put about 1/2 qt. of oil (out of the total amount needed to fill) in the top end via one of the valve adjustment ports. Then start the engine once you are prepared to loosen the line you mentioned to be sure oil is flowing before riding.
thanks.

If I put the 1/2 quart through the valve cap, should I put the other 2 quarts in the top tank? Or should I add more to the lower engine?

Also, valve adjustment is .004 and .005 inch for all valves? that's what my 1988 book said I think.


do the engine to frame bolts go through from left to right, or does it matter?

I'm missing my compression release lever. The cable was taped to the handlbars. I'll have to ebay it or something...

probably will wander out to the garage tonight, brave the cold, and do a few things.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #74
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I put one quart in the frame and the other quart 'n a half in the left intake hole. Since most of the assembly is on the right side I put the bolts in from the left and nuts on the right. Your correct on the valve clearances.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:20 PM   #75
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I put one quart in the frame and the other quart 'n a half in the left intake hole. Since most of the assembly is on the right side I put the bolts in from the left and nuts on the right. Your correct on the valve clearances.
Thank you!

Tonight I put the carbs on. Probably the biggest pain in the butt since I started this reassembly. Probably has something to do with 40 degree rubber boots and those carbs are pretty tight in between frame and engine.

Also, anyone have pictures of the hose routing for carbs and/or throttle cable routing? I made my best guess, but since I didn't disassemble, I may be wrong... Exhaust is next!
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