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Old 10-31-2012, 09:51 PM   #16
advhound OP
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Quick update: Not getting much or any suction that I can feel from the vacuum hose. Put a spare tube on the vacuum port on petcock, gave it a little vacuum and fuel came right out of fuel supply of petcock, no hesitation. Petcock seems functional. Drained a couple ounces of fuel from the carb bowl drain. Fuel was very clean. A couple very small white drops sunk in the cup of drained fuel. Next stop, starter fluid in carb to see if she'll turn over! Thanks for all the ideas fellas.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #17
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I took off the valve cover and discovered this piece broken off from the valve assembly towards the front of the motorcycle on the right side:


Here is where the piece broke off from the assembly:


Here is a shot of the entire front valve assembly:


A shot from the left of the motor. The valve assembly with the broken piece is to the left (front of the motorcycle).


Glad to finally have found something that is definitely broken so I am clear as to what the problem is, but wondering what else I need to look into. The starter was turning the engine decent before, but now it seems the starter is seized up and the cam chain and gears in that last picture are not turning at all. What part is that that broke? What more do I need to investigate besides replacing that one part?

advhound screwed with this post 11-03-2012 at 02:25 PM Reason: Corrected link pictures
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:14 PM   #18
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from post 14 "or most likely a broken compression release." which is what you have. my guess is that the threads are pulled out of the head on that one cam cap. remove the exhaust cam & check out the caps & cam journals and the holes. be careful... each hole has a dowel that sometimes falls out & can go into the engine (I Locktite them in). you may be able to Helicoil the damaged hole(s) in place, and if the rest isn't too beat up it can be reused. the compression release isn't really needed, remove the residue & fly on.

if you can't fix the hole in place or there is other damage, the head will need to come off... that actually has advantages. it will let you clean things up & do a Stage I (or at least 1/2).... then it tempts you to 685/688 as well. think it over, all worth while mods

for sure I would pull off the left side engine cover(s) and look for damage to the cam drive train. I suspect the cams may have jumped time, check to see if that happened. if so, valves may be bent. I would seriously consider replacing the cam chain since it was stressed. might as well do the doo while you are in there... worth the piece of mind.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:28 PM   #19
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ya, hard to tell in that last pic, but the cam lobes don't look right to me. when you have the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, the intake lobes point aft and the ex lobes point forward (like when you set/check valve clearance)..... so when the intakes are forward, the exhausts should point back & they don't look like they do. in fact, looking at the first couple pix the ex lobes are pointing down... I don't think thats right

see the line on the intake gear with the blue dot.... there is a similar line on the ex gear. at TDC compression stroke, those 2 lines should be parallel to the gasket line on the head

first.... undo the cam chain tensioner, it may be overly tight

get the timing reset & do a compression check & see if valves are bent

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Old 11-03-2012, 05:29 PM   #20
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Lots to think about regarding this...

Sorry for not re-reading entire thread - has the doohickey been done? Sometimes, when the stock spring or doohickey breaks, the broken parts will migrate and get caught in the cam chain or counterbalancer chain path. My understanding is this will usually result in catastrophic failure much like you seem to have experienced, but...

- that cam cap bolt that's backed out is not good at all. If that cap is loose, the cam may have moved around and ruined the plain bearing surfaces (which ruins the head). Is the rear bolt on that cap tight? You'll need to remove the exhaust cam and inspect the bearing surfaces for damage.

- even if the cam chain, counterbalancer chains are OK, the exhaust cam and cam bearing surfaces undamaged, the broken KACR may have damaged that exhaust valve (bent valve). Something is locking your engine up. You'll have to dissasemble further to figure it out. Suspect you won't like what you'll find.

- Suggest removing both cams, suspend the cam chain (keep it tight by tying it up) and see if you can turn the bottom end over.

Hopefully others chime in too.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:58 PM   #21
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What you are looking at on the end of the exhaust cam is the remnants of your automatic compression release mechanism. It consist of 2 weights pivoted on one end connected by a coil spring that keep 1 exhaust valve partially open at cranking speeds.

I think the spring broke or unhooked allowing one of the weights to open enough to hit the head and leverage the exhaust cam up with enough force to pull the cam cap bolt out the head. There are more parts to it some where.

That might have allowed the cam chain to either come off or slip enough to cause the the valves to contact the piston and bend. In any event, the fact that the starter can't turn over the engine is probably because the bike is out of time and the valves are hitting the piston. How that occured merely cranking the bike is a mystery to me. If you hand turned the engine clock wise, it could have allowed the chain tensioner to back off.

You might be able to fix it, if the cams or bearings did not get scored but probably be cheaper to find another head complete with cams. You will need more disassembly to determine what else is damaged.
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itsatdm screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 02:09 PM
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:30 PM   #22
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any news??????????
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
any news??????????
I haven't made time to tear into the engine further, but plan to soon. I will remove the exhaust cam assembly and inspect for damage and/or broken parts.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:46 PM   #24
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You ran it dry on oil. The exhaust cam is first to go, last on the oil line. The compression release broke when it hit the top of the valve cover. The bolts are loose because the cam ate its way into the head,, melting and destroying the aluminum as it got hot.

You will need a new head, cams and might as well do the 685 kit since its a oil burner. The bottom should be fine.

Why did it shut down? Best see if it threw the cam chain and bent the valves. Check valve clearences, if one or more are large the valve hit the piston.

If the engine is locked up it likely has more internal damage. Remove the head and cyl. and see if it turns over BY HAND.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:23 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by rustynut2 View Post
You ran it dry on oil. The exhaust cam is first to go, last on the oil line. The compression release broke when it hit the top of the valve cover. The bolts are loose because the cam ate its way into the head,, melting and destroying the aluminum as it got hot.

You will need a new head, cams and might as well do the 685 kit since its a oil burner. The bottom should be fine.

Why did it shut down? Best see if it threw the cam chain and bent the valves. Check valve clearences, if one or more are large the valve hit the piston.

If the engine is locked up it likely has more internal damage. Remove the head and cyl. and see if it turns over BY HAND.
I will probably begin by removing the head and the cylinder as you suggested and continue to uncover what may be causing the motor to be bound up.

If it come to it, what am I looking at if I need to buy a new head and cam assembly? Would I buy both an exhaust and an intake cam assembly? Should I plan on buying the parts new from Kawi? What will a replacement head and cams cost?
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:15 AM   #26
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Lots!

I've been keeping my eyes peeled on eBay for a good deal on a used cylinder head. They are rare as hens teeth, and expensive when they do pop up. On eBay, I saw a new OEM bare head assembly (i.e no valves, valve springs or cams included) be listed "buy it now" for $800+ By the time you've added replacement cams (you'll probably only need a new exhaust cam) and all the valve train parts you're talking well over $1K! Almost better off looking for a parts bike for yourself. Used KLR650 engines go for $1500 to $1800 on eBay - maybe you can get lucky and find a complete parts bike and/or a good engine relatively close to you for roughly that price, or less? Trouble is, everybody is looking for good deals like that... I know I am.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:47 PM   #27
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I considered the low oil syndrome, but didn't see the usual gaps that appear between the cam & followers and the cap & boss. easy way to tell is to pull the cam. also the oil filter will be full of aluminum.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Kawasaki-...66dbfa&vxp=mtr

good price but you need the caps.... they are machined with the head when it's made.

the intake cam will be OK, the rt side journal on the ex cam will be hashed

there is a company that repairs them but it's not cheap
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:19 PM   #28
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Engine and parts bike for ya


http://williamsport.craigslist.org/mcy/3367371325.html
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:41 AM   #29
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back at it

Hey guys, long time no update, by I'm back at it!

Tore into it and sure enough the exhaust cam shaft is scored and the head journals for the exhaust cam shaft are fairly chewed up. Oil was dark, but no shards of metal at all.

My best guess of what happened is because the exhaust camshaft is the last part of the engine to get oil, it went dry first, started getting chewed up, camshaft seized up, killed the engine. The key from the cam chain gear to the exhaust cam shaft was broken, so the gear is spinning freely. What do you guys think?

My thoughts on what needs to be replaced as of now:
-new head
-new exhaust cam shaft journals
-new cam chain because it was strained?
-what else?
@Beezer & @RandoCommando - Wish I would have hopped on those links sooner, I just hadn't torn into the engine to confirm what I needed yet. What do you guys think of this, $650 for head assembly with valves: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KLR...item589cd1e15f

What do I need to look into next? Make sure the valves weren't bent?

Shot of engine block from the right side:


Shot of exhaust cam shaft damage:


Shot of the top journals:
What is the tube connecting the intake and exhaust cam shaft journals?

advhound screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 07:53 AM
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:34 AM   #30
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That's how oil get's to the exhaust side, there is a small o-ring on both ends, if the ring is bad the oil leaks out the tube fitting and doesn't make it to the cam. bete
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