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Old 11-08-2012, 03:28 AM   #31
Sidecarjohn
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Nothing wrong with an airhead Beemer, but the CX is known, available and predominantly would appear to mean less cost implications. Surely a major factor considering the original question is being posed. The subframe issue, although important, is hardly a deal breaker.

Any CX outfit I have known over the years has been a sound proposition whether a 500 or 650. Go for it.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:50 AM   #32
halflive
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An airhead does also require a subframe. The oval frame tubes are very thin walled. A proper airhead subframe will cost about 800 dollar. Much more than a home build CX subframe.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #33
yatesfly
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I hope you go ahead with he cx and build the subframe. I have a gl500 that has about 60something thous on it and is expendable I also have a dnepr sidecar. I talked to sidecar Bob and looked at the pictures I could find and the angle iron looks the easiest for me. I am just slow and not good at posting pictures on the pc. However reading your post has got me at least looking for iron and have enough to start. One reason I got held up was it appears I may have to lose the exaust system as it is (maybe) and some of the fairing that is no big deal. I do have a mt-16 dnepr so I kind of know what a rig looks like. Anyway good luck and I will watch your progress and will post to let you know how I am getting on. I think the first part I will make will be the part that goes on the engine lugs and try to figure out in space where I want the front mounting ball. And am also thinking of using the center stand mounting ears. Any how good luck hope you go with the cx they are good bikes. Dennis
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:11 PM   #34
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actually the pictures I am using came from halflives site Dennis
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:13 AM   #35
MGV8 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halflive View Post
You are not the first to mount a sidecar to a CX. After seeing one i collected some pictures and started a dialog with Sidecar Bob and Doug Bingham.
Made a story and howto on my website: http://halflive.hostei.com/halflive/...0CX/cx500.html
Thanks, I have read through that post, I think I will get my feet wet with the CX.
But I got held up. I was planning on getting started this weekend but when I went for the tubing all my guy had was square or black pipe. I don't have bending dies for either and don't want to use either. I do have some 1 inch DOM left from a suspension project but don't want to use it for this project. Tubing is now on order. Maybe I will work on making the CX run again. A good first place the start
Brian
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:17 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by jaydmc View Post
You have the CX, they work well as a sidecar bike. The sub frame is very easy to make for this bike, It will not cost all that much to mount the sidecar if you make the mounts your self. So I say run the CX
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Thanks Jay, that is the plan for now. If I find the perfect GS I will be in touch.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:00 PM   #37
Dickie
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Go for it. I had many happy years with a CX and Palma with no troubles at all. Com star rear wheel can be converted to a car rim with a couple of steel polos quite easily. I didn't have a sub frame on mine, although it may have been the best option, just a steel plate bolted between the two lower engine eyes. Top mount was a long bolt with caps through the tube above the radiator on my 500, with an eye bolt on the end. Top rear was a tube clamp and the bottom rear was a plate mounted on the bolts rear of the rider foot rest. Watsonian supplied it all as a kit, although that was in the early 80's.
I made up a fork brace and some caps to allow me to put external springs over the fork tubes to stiffen the forks.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:12 AM   #38
XL-erate
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Just a note to DIY builders here. Many larger cities in the U.S.A. will have a Surplus Steel or Surplus Metals company in town. Surplus doesn't have to mean old rusty or used crap at all. Usually it's brand new leftovers from large jobs.

Both surplus places I've used in the last 10 years had top quality steel and alloys that were well protected from inclement weather. Maybe a light surface rust on some but that's no problem. The two I've used sell by the pound, not the steels specs, and the prices are jaw drop low! In general I can buy $500 worth of steel for $50-$100 or less.

Added bonus is some of the premium stuff is often mixed in with common mild steel and is sold at the lower prices. Just have to check the numbers on the tube, plate or whatever and know what you're looking for. Pays to investigate and shop around.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:01 PM   #39
MotoJ
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Originally Posted by XL-erate View Post
Just a note to DIY builders here. Many larger cities in the U.S.A. will have a Surplus Steel or Surplus Metals company in town. Surplus doesn't have to mean old rusty or used crap at all. Usually it's brand new leftovers from large jobs.

Both surplus places I've used in the last 10 years had top quality steel and alloys that were well protected from inclement weather. Maybe a light surface rust on some but that's no problem. The two I've used sell by the pound, not the steels specs, and the prices are jaw drop low! In general I can buy $500 worth of steel for $50-$100 or less.

Added bonus is some of the premium stuff is often mixed in with common mild steel and is sold at the lower prices. Just have to check the numbers on the tube, plate or whatever and know what you're looking for. Pays to investigate and shop around.
These guys have locations all over the place. They have everything and they'll cut it to size for you, so you don't have to worry about transporting long lengths from a wholesale steel yard.

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:00 PM   #40
XL-erate
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Yes, handy if they're local and no minimum purchase plus cut lengths.
However I don't think they sell as a Surplus dealer and the difference in prices is just amazing. I think I pay between $1.85 and $2.25 per lb surplus price, not sure. Will call them tomorrow if I remember [fat chance] and post up current price.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:03 AM   #41
MotoJ
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Originally Posted by XL-erate View Post
Yes, handy if they're local and no minimum purchase plus cut lengths.
However I don't think they sell as a Surplus dealer and the difference in prices is just amazing. I think I pay between $1.85 and $2.25 per lb surplus price, not sure. Will call them tomorrow if I remember [fat chance] and post up current price.
They do have scrap bins you can pick through and buy by the pound, but it's not surplus, per se. I bought 53 lbs of small pieces of varying thickness plate to use as welding coupons for $14 a couple weeks ago. In the bins were a few pcs each of steel round tube, square tube, angle, etc, in lengths of 4 feet or so. Easily big enough to put a sidecar frame together.

Just a resource for others if they have a Metal Supermarket nearby. There's a Store Locator on the site.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:34 AM   #42
XL-erate
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Sounds good! There aren't any Metal Supermarkets in the towns I've shopped at, probably because the Surplus Steel places are already there and well established. That sounds like a good option, thanks!
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:53 PM   #43
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Yeah I wish we had a ready supply of steel/what ever. I haven't got my tubing yet, but have been way too busy at work to follow up with my steel guy. Being in the hinterland of Canada we have to order any thing out of the ordinary, in. My needs are a bit small to order direct from the big guys so I piggyback an order with my local Fab shop. Any ways lots of winter to come so have time. On the plus side found a bad choke cable on the CX, stuck on. Of course a new one is out of the question so I will get creative with what I have. Might get started soon depending on my dear wife's schedule
Brian
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