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Old 11-11-2012, 12:18 PM   #16
WitchKing OP
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She Ran! with help from my older (more experienced) brother, she ran. Not too well though, and we forgot to tighten the flywheel and sheered the key again. Ordering one now. When it did run though, it had some idle issues, and it would not stay running. I cant really describe it well because we only had it running a few times before the key sheared and now i have no spark. When i get it running again, ill mess with timing/idle/air/fuel mixture and describe it in more detail. I do have a few questions though. After the key sheared, I tried tightening the flywheel to see if i could get spark without the key. It looked like the flywheel was staying in place without the key, but i still didnt have spark. Is that still probably the key?
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:25 PM   #17
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One more thing. When I would kick it over, sometimes it would suddenly stop dead, and I would break my ankle. Is this normal? Oh. And the problem was i taped the wiring together wrong and some of the previously chopped up wires shorted. lol
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WitchKing screwed with this post 11-11-2012 at 12:33 PM
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:53 AM   #18
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WitchKing View Post
She Ran! with help from my older (more experienced) brother, she ran. Not too well though, and we forgot to tighten the flywheel and sheered the key again. Ordering one now. When it did run though, it had some idle issues, and it would not stay running. I cant really describe it well because we only had it running a few times before the key sheared and now i have no spark. When i get it running again, ill mess with timing/idle/air/fuel mixture and describe it in more detail. I do have a few questions though. After the key sheared, I tried tightening the flywheel to see if i could get spark without the key. It looked like the flywheel was staying in place without the key, but i still didnt have spark. Is that still probably the key?
need the key to line the timing up. no key, not gonna spark at right time. i'm assuming you have not loosened the stator plate bolts. don't. not being a dick, but you don't have the tools or skill to properly time it. if you have a dial indicator and know the specs, go for it, otherwise, don't touch it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:01 AM   #19
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One more thing. When I would kick it over, sometimes it would suddenly stop dead, and I would break my ankle. Is this normal? Oh. And the problem was i taped the wiring together wrong and some of the previously chopped up wires shorted. lol
should not stop dead. if it only stops dead when you had spark, your timing is off. if it stops dead without spark, you have other problems. test: put a spark plug in it, do not hook spark plug cap up. kick away. if it doesn't ever stop dead you have a timing issue. if it does stop dead you have a most likely major issue. with that in mind, if you only weigh 80 lbs, and were not kicking with authority, and it stopped, that could just be compression. here's a trick to make it easier to kick. push kicker over till you feel resistance. then a tiny bit more and you will feel resistance again.. then it will just turn easily. now, find the spot between those 2 points of resistance and kick away. this will give you maximum piston velocity when it comes back around to spark. hard to explain, but it works. basically push kicker slowly till you feel resistance, then push it a tiny bit more, then reset kicker, then kick away. disclaimer: if you break your ankle, that's not my fault.


when it ran, (not well), that could have been timing, and not carburetion. did it spit and buck? that's usually timing. if it just bogged/wouldn't rev, reluctant to take throttle, that's either not warmed up or carb problem. i'm assuming since you could not get it to run well, it still was never warmed up.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:44 AM   #20
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everything stainless said

no key = no bueno


If timing is off (like with no key) it may not want to kick over.. Had the timing off on my TY after the motor rebuild I eyeballed it on the work bench. It wanted to feel locked up and or kick back with authority...2 minutes with a dial indicator and a feeler gauge and it was purring.

buy the manual and repair it right before you screw the bike up.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:43 PM   #21
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Timing is actually pretty easy on my bike. with help, I got the basics, the plate doesnt move, only the ponts assembly. Ill keep you all posted.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:10 PM   #22
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So here's what's up. I've only figured out how to adjust the gap, not the timing. The best I could get with some b12 chemtool was fire about every 5th time. I know timing adjustment is pretty specific to my bike, but does anyone have any pointers?
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #23
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Eek

So here's where I stand now. I have spark, I have gas, but no fire. The tube from the carb to the engine is cracked, but it barely leaks at all. When I twist the throttle, it has a more muffled sound when I kick it than when I kick it with no throttle. I know I don't have the carb adjusted right, but it should at least be firing right? I have no smoke coming out the exhaust.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:48 AM   #24
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but it barely leaks at all
barely is the SAME as if it had a big gaping hole.

intake must not leak, or it will never run properly. if it's a rubber boot (i assume it is). (this is a quick TEMPORARY fix) slather it with some seal-all, or silicone, or liquid electrical tape, or whatever you have until you replace it. either way, you will need to replace it. but stopping the leak will help - this is not a permanent fix- it's a get you home/running till you replace the intake boot.

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When I twist the throttle, it has a more muffled sound when I kick it than when I kick it with no throttle
that's correct - you're letting in a bunch more air when you open the throttle..
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:10 PM   #25
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So the leak could cause the bike to not even fire? It kind of makes sense seeing that the vacuum would be weakened.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:15 AM   #26
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So the leak could cause the bike to not even fire? It kind of makes sense seeing that the vacuum would be weakened.
that is correct. when you kick it, it pulls a mix of fuel and air into the crankcase. with an airleak it will pull all air and very little fuel.
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