How do you check if the alternator is functioning properly.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by JRWooden

With stator disconnected also check from the 3-pins of the stator to frame-ground, reading should be "infinite" or very nearly so...
A low reading there means cooked for sure!

At 4000 rpm reading from 1-2 2-3 3-1 should be ~75 VAC

I've not checked mine, but am told normal resistance of the stator windings is ~3.5 ohms

(all this with stator unplugged)

I've not heard from Electrosport for several weeks, so just sent my contact there the "once-a-month" pester e-mail

I am close to either go with the series R/R.....or new stator/flywheel combo. Really too bad ES has not gotten there yet. Don't look good I guess...

[LukasM]

Guys just look into the reliability of Electrosport with existing products before putting your hopes on them. A more than spotty record....


I personally don't think the new flywheel will make any significant difference, what are those little holes on a spinning wheel really going to do in terms of cooling?

At least the series R/R is "cheap" and has been successfully used by the owners of many other bikes with problematic stators.

[guzzimike]

Originally Posted by LukasM

At least the series R/R is "cheap" and has been successfully used by the owners of many other bikes with problematic stators.

Mine seems to be working fine at this point. (see my post in the other thread)
One side effect I have noticed is that voltage has gone from 13.9 to 14.1 - 14.2

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by LukasM

Guys just look into the reliability of Electrosport with existing products before putting your hopes on them. A more than spotty record....


I personally don't think the new flywheel will make any significant difference, what are those little holes on a spinning wheel really going to do in terms of cooling?

At least the series R/R is "cheap" and has been successfully used by the owners of many other bikes with problematic stators.

Lukas:
I can't seem to find much reliability data on other Electrosport units do you have a source?
Here they get 4-stars with 25 reviews but that's about all I can come up with..........
http://www.bikebandit.com/electrospo...ustries-stator

I did stumble on these guys: http://www.customrewind.com/
The website is lame, but they are purported to do good work........ Since I have a burned up stator from a friend's bike I'm going to call them this week and talk about our 200C stator conditions and see if they run away screaming........... or nod their head knowingly and whisper sweet nothings in my ear...

On the flywheel holes.... unless we can get someone with the new design to lay in some thermocouples I guess we won't know for sure ....

it would seem that it would allow for at least some "flow-thru" of air and perhaps oil?
I don't know what the oil level is in the crankcase but it does seem like it might be high enough be able to run thru the (new) holes in the flywheel for some beneficial effect but ... I'm just guessing

[LukasM]

Just search on ADV and you will get plenty of hits. They are right up there with Sidewinder Sprockets...

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by LukasM

Just search on ADV and you will get plenty of hits. They are right up there with Sidewinder Sprockets...

Wow ... THAT GOOD huh?

[whitham_wannabe]

Arse! Came back here to report that I was up and running again with a replacement Electrosport stator, only to read the last few comments ...!

Oh well, we'll see how this one lasts. One thing is for sure, it is better than the burned out BMW one that now resides in the trash.

[yns]

Hey,
For a week now I go to work with a damn 100cc Chinese moped bike... (at least I still have a job in Greece... )

Long story short: Bike 37.000 km, a couple of weeks ago it starts turning on with the 2nd or 3rd effort. Clock turns off and then on again and resets doing the check from the start. I buy a new battery. It lasted ~ 200km. After some beers last Friday I had to walk home. Day after I started the bike with the old battery (that still had some life) and brought it home. With motor running I measured a pathetic 10,4V at the terminals.

Today I opened the stator case. This is what I found:

Does it look fried to you? For sure I have seen worse...


Here's what I measured with stator plug disconnected from the R/R:

Continuity between the yellow stator wires (1-2, 1-3, 2-3)

- Engine off (battery connected)
All tree between 0.6 and 0.9 Ω

Continuity between the yellow stator wires and earth (engine casing)

- With battery disconnected:
Wire 1 - ground: 1.2 Ω
Wire 2 - ground: 1.3 Ω
Wire 3 - ground: 1.1 Ω

- With motor running (4.000 rpm):
Readings went crazy but sometimes they showed numbers from 2 to 3 (Ω or megaΩ? - it's a professional instrument but I guess I don't know how to use it and if I'm supposed to check for continuity with motor running)


Voltage

- Motor running idle:
Wire 1 - 2: 27V~
Wire 1 - 3: 26V~
Wire 2 - 3: 25V~

- Motor running @ 4.000 rpm:
Wire 1 - 2: > 75 V~
Wire 1 - 3: > 80 V~
Wire 2 - 3: > 75 V~

Your opinion? Is it the stator or should I search for a rectifier?

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by yns

Hey,
For a week now I go to work with a damn 100cc Chinese moped bike... (at least I still have a job in Greece... )

Long story short: Bike 37.000 km, a couple of weeks ago it starts turning on with the 2nd or 3rd effort. Clock turns off and then on again and resets doing the check from the start. I buy a new battery. It lasted ~ 200km. After some beers last Friday I had to walk home. Day after I started the bike with the old battery (that still had some life) and brought it home. With motor running I measured a pathetic 10,4V at the terminals.

Today I opened the stator case. This is what I found:

Does it look fried to you? For sure I have seen worse...


Here's what I measured with stator plug disconnected from the R/R:

Continuity between the yellow stator wires (1-2, 1-3, 2-3)

- Engine off (battery connected)
All tree between 0.6 and 0.9 Ω

Continuity between the yellow stator wires and earth (engine casing)

- With battery disconnected:
Wire 1 - ground: 1.2 Ω.....Shorted
Wire 2 - ground: 1.3 Ω.....Shorted
Wire 3 - ground: 1.1 Ω.....Shorted

- With motor running (4.000 rpm):
Readings went crazy but sometimes they showed numbers from 2 to 3 (Ω or megaΩ? - it's a professional instrument but I guess I don't know how to use it and if I'm supposed to check for continuity with motor running)


Voltage

- Motor running idle:
Wire 1 - 2: 27V~
Wire 1 - 3: 26V~
Wire 2 - 3: 25V~

- Motor running @ 4.000 rpm:
Wire 1 - 2: > 75 V~
Wire 1 - 3: > 80 V~
Wire 2 - 3: > 75 V~

Your opinion? Is it the stator or should I search for an alternator?

Stator..... alternator... is the same thing. Looks like yours is shorted out. You can see the whole measuring method here...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809879

Make sure you test for earth with the r/r disconnected.

[yns]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Stator..... alternator... is the same thing. Looks like yours is shorted out. You can see the whole measuring method here...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809879

Make sure you test for earth with the r/r disconnected.

Thanks Erling, I meant R/R when I wrote "alternator in the last phrase. I'll correct it in my post and I'll check your guide. I've read all the posts of the 2 main threads about stator failures but I had missed your guide. Will update with my results.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by yns

Thanks Erling, I meant R/R when I wrote "alternator in the last phrase. I'll correct it in my post and I'll check your guide. I've read all the posts of the 2 main threads about stator failures but I had missed your guide. Will update with my results.

No worries..... That's what I thought you meant.... It looks like your are shorted , and it is possible, that the few "good windings" are producing the 50-70 vac you see, but as soon as connected to the r/r ( those reading should be done disconnected) the voltage drops.

[yns]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

No worries..... That's what I thought you meant.... It looks like your are shorted , and it is possible, that the few "good windings" are producing the 50-70 vac you see, but as soon as connected to the r/r ( those reading should be done disconnected) the voltage drops.

In fact, all the measurements are made with the R/R disconnected. I have not changed anything to the electrical system apart from an extra 12V socket (directly on the battery) for charging the cell phone with the engine off. But I did this last summer... Seems that I have to go to an electrician to have the bike checked but first I will try to have a measurement done at the terminals with the socket disconnected (and the r/r plug connected) to exclude that this is that shorts out.

Edit: it wasn't the extra socket... And my neighbors didn't like the fact that I was testing with engine at 4.000 rpm at 10:00 pm...

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by yns

In fact, all the measurements are made with the R/R disconnected. I have not changed anything to the electrical system apart from an extra 12V socket (directly on the battery) for charging the cell phone with the engine off. But I did this last summer... Seems that I have to go to an electrician to have the bike checked but first I will try to have a measurement done at the terminals with the socket disconnected (and the r/r plug connected) to exclude that this is that shorts out.

Edit: it wasn't the extra socket... And my neighbors didn't like the fact that I was testing with engine at 4.000 rpm at 10:00 pm...

Ha ha... I understand..... In my home country of Denmark, they would not look at this kindly either. You really dont need the electrician. Just do the three measurements, as in my thread. It is a series of tests. If any one fails, your stator is bad. Ie. You cannot have two tests be ok, and a third bad..... Then the stator is bad.