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Old 10-28-2012, 10:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
how reliable is that? cause that sure would simplify life
Plenty reliable. Give it a try. A couple lbs for a torque wrench doesn't sound like much, but when you start to add up everything you need, every ounce will count. Besides, you would likely need two torque wrenches to cover the range of fasteners.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:11 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by crofrog View Post
I'm more worried about the axle nuts because they place side load on the wheel bearings.
Tightening the axle only puts pressure on the inner race of wheel bearings. They are separated by a sleeve to prevent any effect on preload. Their have been instances where the sleeve is too soft a material on certain bikes ,and if over torqued could deform and effect the bearings.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:58 AM   #18
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We've gone through an exercise at work (We make seriously expensive stuff and 99.99% safety record would leave craters all over the country).

Bolts can be accurately torqued by "running them down to touch, plus 1/4 turn" or something in order to arrive at a predetermined torque. This was brought to us by a supplier and we had arguments for months over it. We lost and the supplier is right. Warning: that 1/4 turn works for a specifc torque value and is obviously not universal. More in a minute...

It's certainly a lot more accurate than anyone's reasonably priced chinese, non calibrated torque wrench.

I'm at home and just did a quick google search and came up empty, but I'll look for the documentation at work that gives a really good idea of what to do in order to arrive at a predetermined torque value.

The concept put forth of marking all your bolt assemblies with paint is friggin genius, and would work as long as you are putting the same components back together. If you replace one of the components and the thickness is different then it would have an effect. It would still beat the heck out of just cranking it pret'near and hoping for the best.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #19
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Torque Sockets!

Check these torque sockets out! We use these at work for noob installers. They always overtorque this fiberglass mast, so we give them one of these torque sockets. They act like an extension essentially, but click when the predefined torque has been met. unlike a torque wrench, they will not continue to spin after the set torque has been met.

They work great, you can set them to any torque, and unlike torque wrenches they are not shock/vibration sensitive.
2012 BMW GSA - yeehaw! 5 years of drooling, finally did it.
2003 SV650s
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #20
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I'm gonna test the 1/4 turn thing and the paint marks to see if it all adds up after multiple loosen/tighten.
if it pan's out, i'll be leaving the tw home.

that would be f'n cool!
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #21
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If you understand the principle of how a torque wrench works,pound/feet etc,you can easily make a torque wrench using something like a fishermans spring scale (small and light) and a tommy-bar (you will probably be carrying this anyway) marked to one foot.
Simply hook the sping scale around the tommy-bar at the one foot mark and pull the other end of the scale until it reaches the desired weight,say 20lb,to give a torque of 20ft/lb.
If you applied the same 20lb to a two foot tommy-bar,you get a torque setting of 40ft/lb while 20lb applied at 6 inches (half a foot) would give a figure of 10ft/lb..
All you have to remember is torque is the product of a mass at a distance.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:04 PM   #22
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
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I wouldn't leave home without a centerstand and everything needed to fix multiple flat tires. 9 times out of 10, when I have a problem, it's a flat tire. I don't carry a torque wrench, and in fact do not even use on on my bikes other than for some internal engine bolts. I don't use one on the axles, sprocket bolts, or even the valve adjusters if they are screw and locknut. I did recently use one on the clutch basket nut when I installed a kickstarter on my XT225.

I have found that for most bikes the manual specifies too much torque for the rear axle. You don't need 100+ ft/lbs. on most chain drive bikes 60 ft/lbs is plenty. I have never had a rear wheel move in the swingarm at 60 ft/lbs. This is easily within the range where you can do it by feel and get real close.
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