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Old 11-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #16
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
My second heater is also acting up, I suspect it has an issue with plugging in the gas line, as it has a rather yellow flame, although judging from the rust up under the heater, I think it is the OEM one with the shop.
Have you checked the gas line drip legs at each heater unit? You may have condensation in the gas lines. The yellow flame indicates poor combustion (as you may know).

I had an issue with my garage heater where the pilot light sounded like someone was blowing on it or it was exposed to a stiff breeze. Occasionally, it would go out. It turned out that the pilot assembly was dirty. As rebake mentioned, a blast of compressed air should resolve that. My yearly maintenance, before I light the heater for the winter, involves liberal applications of compressed air to all of the internals. That's overkill but it does clean a lot of residual dust and has kept the pilot light working, issue free.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #17
P B G OP
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Hey thanks all for the help,

@Bronco638 - just did that tonight to the sterling heater. Nothing really in the cap.

This is the second one, which I can keep the thermocouple going by hitting it with propane till red, but then it turns off, so I suspect this was an issue with the pilot venturi. BUT - This one does have a cracked heat exchanger *gasp*.

SO I think the sterling is prone to replacement.

The other heater, the Modine is still resisting efforts, it seems like its a gas valve - I'll probably convert the modine to intermittant start.

That said,

Anyone install radiant natural gas heaters? If I replace the 100000 btu sterling with a radiant, it seems like that would give me one forced air, one radiant, so the air temps could be controlled.

Anyone knowledgable in radiant gas heaters?
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:11 AM   #18
Bronco638
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I have a flame heater while a neighbor has a radiant unit from the same manufacturer (Vanguard). According to the literature, the open flame unit will heat the air which, in turn, heats objects within the warm air. The radiant unit supposedly heats objects which, in turn heat the air.

My neighbor doesn't use his much anymore because he finds it to be ineffective. I love mine. However, I have never really compared them, I'm just going on what he's saying.

How may sq. ft. do you need to warm? Forced air might be the most efficient method. And, definitely replace the unit with the cracked h.e. I don't want to read about you being overcome by c.o., in the Sun-Times.

EDIT: I installed the unit in my garage. Not hard at all. However, if yours is mounted from the ceiling, you'll need some sort of lift. Working on a ladder is a no-no. The piping isn't as hard as you would think. The t-stat wiring should be pretty straight forward.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:50 PM   #19
P B G OP
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Annnnddddd...

Success.

So I like to provide conclusions to my threads when I can.

First heater - Modine is now up and running.

Problem was the heater valve, replaced unit with an intermittent pilot unit (the type with spark ignition to fire up the pilot to then light the burner.

Benefit to this route is that 1 - my standing pilot won't blow out. And 2 - I should use less gas yearly than with a standing pilot, and I eliminated an ignition source for when I'm using volatile chemicals.....



Second heater is still resistant. Very similar symptoms, but the crack in the Heat Exchanger is troubling. So I may not convert the gas valve on that, but it gives me some time to do research. Almost considering some form of solar - evacuation tubes perhaps to provide day time heating, then I'll still have gas to maintain at night. On separate thermostats I can use gas to maintain minimum night temps, and then set the solar to bring the temps way up... things to consider.
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