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Old 11-14-2012, 08:35 AM   #3901
RedRocket
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Looks like you're having a great time .

Nice monkey shot!

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Old 11-14-2012, 09:54 AM   #3902
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Mark, your adv trip gets more and more swanky by the week. You sure these excluded one-time charges follow GAAP accounting rules -- to keep your budget at a nominal $60/day?
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:55 PM   #3903
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Originally Posted by matloik View Post
Mark, your adv trip gets more and more swanky by the week. You sure these excluded one-time charges follow GAAP accounting rules -- to keep your budget at a nominal $60/day?
Hello Matt,

I have been including everything on my Per day charges.... Except trip to Galapagos Islands (about $2,000 USD total).

Had not bought the new tire and spent $180 USD on a full day wine tour. So that $60 USD for Argentina is going up quickly. But I had originally budged $100 USD to include bike maintenance and borders and shipping as needed....

That includes all fuel (which is expensive down here where the mileage increases because to the distances needed to travel). and of course the longer I am staying in the country it takes the per day costs down with these bigger expenses!!

Will update once I spend the next 2 months in Argentina and Chile to see what the real costs are. I know that as I ride solo at this stage of the trip, I am spending more on Lodging ..... But enjoying the comforts!!
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:58 PM   #3904
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Originally Posted by rockymountainoyster View Post
The road over the Andes from Mendoza to Santiago is incredible. I don't remember the name of the pass south of Aconcagua but I have never seen anything quite like it. Incredible switchbacks. The customs and immigration out of Argentina and into Chile were a major pain in the ass. It is a huge busy crossing and the Argys and Chileno's don't get along real well and are not very helpful, especially with the vehicle exportation/importation stuff. You can expect, as an American, to get hit with a $130 immigration fee when you enter Chile for the first time. Very important to carry that receipte as you head south. You will be crossing the border numerous times and you don't want to have to pay that fee again. Chile is not to be missed, especially Patagonia, but you could cut across to the Argentine Atlantic Coast to Comodoro Villa Darivia and then head south to Ushuaia from there and then come back up through Chile. Several ways to slice it. Enjoy!
Just a quick update on this. While driving into Chile I did not have to pay any immigration fee (think it only applies if you fly into the country). And took only one hour at the border crossing. The Argentina Immigration and Aduana were a piece of cake. The Chilean Aduana gal was great!! Very very smooth, no issues.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:17 PM   #3905
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Wow, last time I checked in here you were in Cuzco Guess I better catch up. If you are south of Santiago and headed north there is a couple in Osorno that run a tour company called Motoaventura. I have their number on a sticker on my bike but I don't have my bike here . Anyway, they have stacks of tires and are a wealth of knowledge. Super cool folks if you are in that area and need something moto-related. They are easy to find online.

Also, the HU community in Santiago is a good bunch as are the BMW motorcycle club there.
Cusco was over a month ago.....

I am staying with ADV rider in Santiago, getting a few things done on the bike, including switching out the chain, sprockets after 22,000 Miles will be riding southward after that!

Hope you are well Pete!
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:24 PM   #3906
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Hanging in there. Not having as much fun as you but Melissa and I are headed to Myanmar soon for a little R&R. Keep up the good work
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:34 PM   #3907
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Looks like the wife might be joining me for a bit of my trip, thanks to your pictures of elegant dining and wine tasting. She likes to travel a little bit more luxuriously than I do. Funny, she wanted no part of it based on my pictures.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:24 PM   #3908
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Mark, When you get to the bottom, I think you are planning a trip to Antarctica, but then what?
You riding back up the East side?
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:48 PM   #3909
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Mark, When you get to the bottom, I think you are planning a trip to Antarctica, but then what?
You riding back up the East side?
You should go to New Zealand...
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:40 PM   #3910
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Border Crossing

Glad to hear that is working out better since Feb of '08. They were talking about making it work better sounds like they succeeded.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:00 AM   #3911
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Originally Posted by Katoom119 View Post
You should go to New Zealand...
Plus 1 on New Zealand. Truly beautiful riding. Oh, and hi Mark.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:03 AM   #3912
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I agree with those guys. Head to New Zealand. I'm there now, actually (in New Zealand -- South Island) as a friend lives here and I've been visiting. It's a stunning place. This is my third trip...and I'll be back many more times. It's nice to have friends with a great guest house to stay in, too.
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:48 AM   #3913
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Originally Posted by Katoom119 View Post
You should go to New Zealand...
I have been seriously considering NZ but still trying to work out Logistics. Have emailed about importing the bike, but no reply from NZ.......

Traveled in NZ years ago for a month, so i know what fun I will be in for.
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:58 AM   #3914
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Mark, When you get to the bottom, I think you are planning a trip to Antarctica, but then what?
You riding back up the East side?
Not exactly sure what my plan will be. Have a very big mix of thoughts, emotions and logistics when in comes to what will be next.

The "plan" is to be in Ushuaia through Christmas and New years with some other bikers. Rented a place in Ushuaia for all us to hang out for that two weeks!!

Then will ride north .... Maybe through some of Patagonia that I will miss, then? Hard to say. If I choose to go to New Zealand, I will want to get there in February so that I am in better weather especially in the south Island.

Have also been studying the shipping logistics..... The costs are really high. Will float it out here .... But have been considering selling my bike down here ...... If I found a buyer ready to do the ride north..... Then fly to NZ and rent or buy a bike.... Then do the same in other places like China. Loved my experiences in India on a smaller local bike. Less hassle with shipping logistics and costs. But we will see.

Also have a bit of a pull toward getting back to the US and getting onto my next chapter, which will be a good thing too!! I cannot really retire, so I need to find some meaningful work and get started. That said, it will also include travel by moto. Like Riding in China in May/June 2013 with my friend Lv Fei! still working out this kinds of plans ..... but it is a long way off!


Right now I will just enjoy the next couple months and see how it goes. Stay tuned .... As the "World Turns"
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:03 AM   #3915
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The trip has been filled with meeting interesting people. These are the real gems of the trip!!

Hector, Matias and I had a great few days!! But as it is in this kind of Moto travel, we have different directions and schedules. We talked about this as solo travelers. You connect with others, have fun together but then when head back out on your own there is a little sense of loneliness and sadness of parting ways.

Matias and I headed out of Arequipa toward Jaliaca. Great ride in the high plains with volcanos in view.





Quietly riding along as we both fill with thoughts of the road ahead. Just 3.5 hours and we said Goodbye. Matias heading North and me south! Travel safe friend..... See you next year in the states!





One of Hectors Stickers.........



Jaliaca is a small town but was very busy....



Lots of markets, people in all kinds of vehicles



Moto Shops!



A few toll stops, but Motos do not need to pay. Most of these toll boths do not say anything about mottos. But this one had a sign, and a gravel road to go around. Nice!





My first view of Lake Titicaca. The highest and largest lake in the world at over 13,000 feet.



I heard Puno was not much of a town, but did have the Uros People and there floating islands. So I knew it would be touristy..... But decided to go. 5 sole entrance fee, 10 Soles Boat trip, then 10 Soles on the reed boat.



Not really sure what to expect as we cruised out 20 minutes from town.

Then the double decker reed boats.



and a close look at a "floating Island"





We get off on one of the family Islands for the Presentation of there lives, then of course the Gifts for sale......

Yup. We are floating. The thick reeds are solid but spongy.... you can see the tie down rope in the water.





The little Tourist show explaining the life of the Uros. Then the sales pitch.



Cooking pots....



Then we all hopped about for a reed boat ride to the main island.





Looking down on the main island, as the sell their goods, and food.





Storm clouds on the horizon, with some good lightening. The captain said it would not rain until later.... He was right.



When I returned to the Presidente Hotel..... Had a knock on my door...... Mike and Jill had made it to town!

We planned to meet the next day to check out Visa's for Bolivia and figure out what a riding plan would be. They were planning to go around the lake to the north but there was no border crossing so it would take some planning and work at the Bolivian Embassy.

I had another night that I did not sleep much. I can only think it is the Altitude somehow...



We met in the Am, saw the Bolivian Embassy, who was out of the necessary Stickers to give us Visa's ....... New plans.

They stayed here. $30 Soles for a double bath down the hall. Looked like a nice place.



Back together riding again!!



Max (the Sasquatch) Likes their sticker



We rode south along the lake toward Bolivia. At the Junction for Copacabana or Desaguadero We flipped a coin, since we just did not care which way we headed into Bolivia..... Tails. Desaguadero it was.

Last looks at Lake Titicaca on the Peru side....



We roll into yet another border town. They are always a bit rough and not real appealing.



As we roll up to the Peruvian side of the "fronterra" we see the Police the point where we can stop. Off we get. Always easier with two bikes as we can watch the bikes while figuring out where to go to Immigration and Aduana.



The Immigration is on our left. And Aduana was on the right. What is so different from the Central America borders is that there is no "helpers" or money changers rushing you. Seems so calm and relaxed!

The check out of Immigration and Aduana takes about 20-30 Minutes. Easy. 1/2 way done!

You will also have to pay a 5 soles municipal tax before you leave.

Then Into Bolivia!







As we get across the bridge, the police point a place for us to park.... Just to the right side. The Offices for Immigration and Aduana are in the blue building in the center of the street.



Here we go again!! You then walk around to the left of the building for immigration. Go to Office 1 and show passport and get paperwork to fill out.

As US citizen you need to fill out the Visa paperwork with passport photo, copy of Passport and $135 USD (nice clean bills no tears or defects, they check them closely). Once paperwork is completed take them to Officina 2 where the guys will take your paperwork.

Mike has all their paperwork and $.



Once they sticker your passport, you walk just across the street for copies of two pages of new stamp and sticker in passport and return to the Immagration guys and then you are done!!



Aduna is back at the front of the building and clearly marked. You need Title with Plate number and Vin number, passport copy. He signed us off quickly.



Mike and Jill done with Immigration.....



**** Be sure to check the documents to make sure they got all your numbers correct!! (Matias did not when he entered and they had made typo errors. At exit they wanted him to go back to Entrance border or La Paz to have it corrected..... He offered $100 Bolivianos ...... and they let him leave, but extra hassle you do not need!)

Done. Took 1.5 hours or so.

Border guards were interested and wanted to ask about the trip.... Had one Police guy make us sign a book then wanted some extra $. Mike said no.

*** As you start riding out to La Paz there is a police checkpoint that they asked to see documents and then wanted 5 Boliviano for Municipal tax ….

Finally on our way into Bolivia.



You notice subtle changes in the people, dress, and slightly poorer look and more trash…

Riding into LA Paz is a busy experience. The traffic starts about 15 miles from La Paz. GPS got is through the crazy t city Alto and then down the hill into La Paz. On our way in a truck bumped my rear pannier and we also saw 3 mini buses crash right next to us…. Very Hectic! For sure.



Mike and Jill in yet another exhaust of one of the buses!



Slight reprieve from traffic as we head down the hill into La Paz........




Hostel. Lots of one way streets. We had a list of a few hostels, and settled on Blancito which you ride into the entrance and lobby of the Hostel, which once must have been a very nice hotel. We paid $40 Bilivianos a person for a room .

Rode in over the curb, through the lobby, and down a hallway to park the bikes.



La Paz has an interesting feel. Hectic and full of life. We are in an area of shops, of all kinds. Cool.

Nice write up mark . I just came through this border a few days ago . I am thinking those "taxes" you got charged were a bit of a backhander . Not 1 person asked me for any tax . hope your trip is going well . I have a bit of work to do in La Paz as my waterpump seals have just gone
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