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Old 06-14-2012, 08:22 AM   #91
longtallsally OP
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Mine (the one I started the thread with) is a 2007. Let's just say, I've "used" mine and no issues at all- other than being more comfy.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:12 AM   #92
2712
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Mine just arrived with the mail!

72 euro's shipped from the usa, i had to pay 29 euro's import tax.

Don't steal, the gouvernment hates competition!
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:53 PM   #93
lilmonkey
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I want to replace the E bolts with standard bolts...what do I need?
(2) M10 x90
(2) M8 x 30
Is that right? What thread pitch? I need to order online, so I want to make sure I get the right thing.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:23 PM   #94
Marc - Australia
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Sorry guys to dig this out again,
but I am looking up the ROX risers for a friend and his 2011 ADV.

May I ask which size of the risers you got?

Thanks, appreciate your help!
Marc


Quote:
Originally Posted by tallguy-09 View Post
Works great.

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Old 08-21-2012, 09:46 PM   #95
Ride4Coffee
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Go VFR direct to ROX

Call or write Ryan at ROX. He's sharp, and will explain the options for that specific bike:
Ryan Jensen
RoxSpeedFX Inc.
218-326-1794
tech@roxspeedfx.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc - Australia View Post
Sorry guys to dig this out again,
but I am looking up the ROX risers for a friend and his 2011 ADV.

May I ask which size of the risers you got?

Thanks, appreciate your help!
Marc
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:47 PM   #96
Ride4Coffee
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install complete. couple questions

Finished the install today, rerouted every cable, and had to tighten all bolts several times. of course, I don't own a torque wrench yet (but it's coming).

I am wondering how hard I should try to pounce the bars to test them.
Also, if you look at the front brake cable in the op, it runs the neck of the forks. Will it rub through the coated, braided cable?

Aside from those thoughts, I'm pleased with the install. Next step is to replace the e-torx bolts. Anyone know what size Allen bolts to get (my searches came up with different answers)? (same question as lilmonkey above)

Long story short, this tutorial made the job much easier than if I struck out on my own. Thanks again!

R4c
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:38 PM   #97
ACD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc - Australia View Post
Sorry guys to dig this out again,
but I am looking up the ROX risers for a friend and his 2011 ADV.

May I ask which size of the risers you got?

Thanks, appreciate your help!
Marc
I got the 2" riser for my GS. I am 1.80m tall and I had to bend my back or my knees a little bit, while standing on the pegs, to comfortably hold the handlebar, so I knew 2" would be more than enough. Regular spacers would suffice, to be honest, but I wanted the flexibility ROX risers give you. Highly recommend it. After I bought it I noticed they carry a 1.5", that one would do as well. Perhaps you will have more space to work on the bolts with the taller one. More than 2" and you will have problems with you cables.

ACD screwed with this post 10-01-2012 at 10:41 PM Reason: quoted the wrong guy
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:47 AM   #98
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Frustrated

After spending many hours reading all the threads on ADV, I purchased the 2" Rox risers. I did a dry run leaving the cables in front of the forks to test out the concept. When I noticed that the cables were tight, as everyone here indicated they would be, I preceded to remove the fork caps to drop the forks in order to re-route the cables and brake lines.

What I found was that the nuts were somewhat corroded and apparently bonded to the studs. I was unable to get them off without the bolt starting to feel like it was starting to round off. Fearing mission creep and a trip to my BMW dealer in my future, I gave up.

Are there any secrets to getting off corroded nuts without destroying the stud and it's associated parts? I thought about trying to heat up the nut, but there are too many wires in the area that possibly could be damaged in the process.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:24 AM   #99
hardpackrider
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thanks Tex (throttle link) helped !


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Old 11-16-2012, 12:15 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin III View Post
After spending many hours reading all the threads on ADV, I purchased the 2" Rox risers. I did a dry run leaving the cables in front of the forks to test out the concept. When I noticed that the cables were tight, as everyone here indicated they would be, I preceded to remove the fork caps to drop the forks in order to re-route the cables and brake lines.

What I found was that the nuts were somewhat corroded and apparently bonded to the studs. I was unable to get them off without the bolt starting to feel like it was starting to round off. Fearing mission creep and a trip to my BMW dealer in my future, I gave up.

Are there any secrets to getting off corroded nuts without destroying the stud and it's associated parts? I thought about trying to heat up the nut, but there are too many wires in the area that possibly could be damaged in the process.
Put a little liquid wrench on the bolts and let them sit for an hour.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:59 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin III View Post
After spending many hours reading all the threads on ADV, I purchased the 2" Rox risers. I did a dry run leaving the cables in front of the forks to test out the concept. When I noticed that the cables were tight, as everyone here indicated they would be, I preceded to remove the fork caps to drop the forks in order to re-route the cables and brake lines.

What I found was that the nuts were somewhat corroded and apparently bonded to the studs. I was unable to get them off without the bolt starting to feel like it was starting to round off. Fearing mission creep and a trip to my BMW dealer in my future, I gave up.

Are there any secrets to getting off corroded nuts without destroying the stud and it's associated parts? I thought about trying to heat up the nut, but there are too many wires in the area that possibly could be damaged in the process.
KROIL!!!!!! Best stuff ever made.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:08 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by go gonzo View Post
KROIL!!!!!! Best stuff ever made.
Thanks. Admittedly I am not the most experienced person using a wrench. The Ratchet I am using is only, by estimate, 6-7 inches long. Generally speaking, Should I get a much longer ratchet or wrench for this process which is much longer to generate the 40 Lbs of torque that presumably it was put on with, or possibly a breaker bar? The thing that scares me here is that those studs and the seal that they are part of cost 109 dollars apiece so I don't want to destroy them in the process.
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Merlin III screwed with this post 11-16-2012 at 05:20 PM
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:10 PM   #103
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Do I need new brake lines?

I have a 2012 GSA and would like to install a set of these. Will I need a new (longer) brake line?
Thanks in advance for the help!
grins
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:30 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by gr8grins View Post
I have a 2012 GSA and would like to install a set of these. Will I need a new (longer) brake line?
Thanks in advance for the help!
grins
Apparently not.
http://www.myspace.com/video/vid/315...mp=vid_OEV_P_P
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:00 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go gonzo View Post
KROIL!!!!!! Best stuff ever made.
Kroil is great. Believe it or not, the penetrating oil that has performed the best in many tests is a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone.
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