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Old 11-16-2012, 02:15 PM   #16
strongbad
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Install a voltmeter so you can monitor your charging system's output. If charge voltage falls below ~12.9V you need to turn off or turn down external loads.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:21 PM   #17
eakins
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switch to turn off your headlight during the day
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:57 PM   #18
crypto666
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #19
Kommando
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LED lights can help. Just make sure they're low-draw. I've seen LED tail/brake lights that used almost as much wattage as the stock incandescent light. If you have LED marker/signal lights, use a no-load flasher unit, rather than using resistors. Remember to replace any small incandescent bulbs too (dash, license plate, etc.).

The beefed stator that was mentioned can help too.

Some people are also swapping a MOSFET reg/rect from a Honda CBR onto their bikes. These are typically more efficient than many other OEM reg/rect units.

A heat-troller can make your heated gear more efficient too, and allow you to better control what garment gets more or less heat when you need it or don't.

A headlight switch may or may not be legal where you ride. An HID or 35W/55W setup might be though. A more-efficient bulb could save you 20W at just your headlight. A switch could save you 55W.

Incorporate a light wicking layer, an insulating layer, and a windproof/waterproof layer into your riding gear. You may not even need heated gear. I never have, and I commuted in Chicago winters when temps were WELL below freezing.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:15 PM   #20
Grinnin
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A volt display so you can see when it's OK and when it's not.

I've used my heated jacket with a flasher relay to give an approximate 50% duty cycle. It's not the toasty goodness that a full-power jacket is, but it works on one of my smaller bikes.
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:47 PM   #21
Speedo66
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I run a gerbings jacket liner and gloves on an XT225 which also has a pretty dismal electrical output.

Things I've done are:

Wiring in a switch for the headlight. I run high beam during the day, so I just found the wire going to the high beam, cut it, and ran wires from each end to a switch on the handlebars. Turn it off before you try starting. 60 watts

I removed the wires for the front turn signal running lights, figured I didn't need them. 16 watts

LED tail light bulb. 5 watts

As previously stated, turn off all heated gear several miles before you stop to let the battery recharge.

I also installed a kick start kit.

A little planning required, but worth being able to ride all winter.

Good luck!
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:45 PM   #22
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
Things I've done are:

Wiring in a switch for the headlight. I run high beam during the day, so I just found the wire going to the high beam, cut it, and ran wires from each end to a switch on the handlebars. Turn it off before you try starting. 60 watts
If one is only going to use this switch when starting, there would be no point on the XRL. Honda took care of that in the staring circuit. Press the starter button and the headlight shuts off.

Walter
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:48 AM   #23
rjsurfer
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My DRZ's stator outputs just a bit more than your's, 200 watts or so.

I run a heated jacket and gloves with a total draw of 90 watts with no problem but I have made many of the mods that people have recommended here.

Voltmeter, HID headlight, LED tail/brakelight plus I run 12 gauge wires direct from the regulator output to the battery bypassing a few connectors and factory 16 gauge wiring.

I also shut down the heated gear 5 minutes before destination.

If I ever do run into trouble I'll go for the $200 kick start option.

Good luck.

Ron W.
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:26 PM   #24
bmwktmbill
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EX,
Sell the jacket and gloves and buy a vest from Aerostich, the cheap one

http://www.aerostich.com/clothing/he...tric-vest.html

and use grip heaters.
Less amps and more control

Buy quality insulated gloves with thin palms, look at bicycle 3 finger gloves... and for your torso use a silkweight underware top then the vest, then a quality insulated down or syn short jacket, then your riding jacket.

You are doing things backwards. Get the heat next to your body.

Loose the heat troller, it will just break and run the plug direct to the vest.


Then all the other stuff but buy a Buff neck warmer

http://www.buffusa.com/sports/collec...FQqe4Aod2gcALA

Stop every 50 miles and get a warm drink or carry one.
And that short windshield you were considering...good idea(or head south).
bill
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 11-17-2012 at 06:34 PM
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:31 AM   #25
rjsurfer
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The original Buf is great but don't waste your money, do yourself a favor and get the get the Polar Buf.

The last third of the fabric is fleece and the entire roll is longer so you can really seal up the bottom of your helmet from the wind and have enough material to act as a balaclava and still pull a section over your mouth and nose.

Ron W.
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