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Old 11-18-2012, 05:14 PM   #106
panhead_dan
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I didn't read the whole thread so forgive me if this was already covered but you already have a chain oiler on your bike, most likely. They have it routed to your air cleaner currently.
Re-route the crank case vent to the chain.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:48 AM   #107
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^^^^^^^^
Bad idea. They "breathe",i.e. inhale and exhale. Nothing like a bunch of road debris floating around in your oil.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:38 AM   #108
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they exhale at a greater rate than they inhale. No dust can get in there. There is a youtube vid showing this using a balloon on the end of the hose.
Virtually all older vehicles used to have the vent open to the atmosphere and in some cases way down low, close to the ground. The only reason they changed this is the epa wanted to re-burn the oily gasses.

It does work and it's mostly free.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:27 PM   #109
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Gonna cautiously bump this thread back from the nether.

I am in the same boat as Jamie was/is, though my situation is 2 chains instead of 5.

I put 25600 miles on my DR650 in 5 months and went through 2 chains. The good thing about this time frame is that I get to see in a condensed timespan how my chain wears.

The first was a DID VM2 Xring chain. Not knowing any better, I cleaned the chain with WD40 and would put Bel Ray chain lube on it (a brief period of Dupont Dry Wax teflon lube since I had a bottle). I did TONS of dirt, water crossings, mud, and sand- TAT arkansas & oklahoma, multiple trails around moab, the dalton, road to Mccarthy, mineral creek road out of Valdez, road to Circle, Denali hwy, etc. At 13k miles, the DID had red dust sprinkling out and a number of links started kinking. When I pulled the master link apart (installed by a local pro small shop guru with 20 years experience since I hadnt pressed a link on before), it was bone dry with a nice layer of rust. Ground the rivets off one of the main links and same deal. It should be noted the Bel Ray stuff was thick and sticky and the chain would look terrible after dirt. Even WD40 had a hard time cleaning the chain.

I replaced it with a RK Racing Xring chain. More asphalt on this chain, but still did the New England Backcountry route, and a good portion of the TET. This time, I used a completely different approach as I accredited the short chain life of my prior chain to me cleaning with WD40 and using the Bel Ray stuff. I used Diesel fuel to clean the chain and lubed the chain with any thin dry lube I could find reasoning that with less lube, I would leave less for dirt to stick to. I have used Liquid Wrench Silicone spray (for rust protection and orings/xrings), LW chain lube (mostly this), and various other dry lubes. At 15k miles now, the chain is starting to be stiff, one link consistently kinks (not the master), its starting to need frequent adjustments, and its giving me driveline rumble.

I just received my new chain, which is simply a DID V8 Oring chain. It just needs to last until I head for SA where I will fit a DID VX2 and new sprockets. Wtf do I try now? Im considering a Scottoiler, Loobman, or Pro Oiler and using 90wt gear oil, but I ride tons of dirt so this has its negatives too.

OP, did you ever find a setup that works for you?

It should be noted- the DR runs a 525 chain, I used a 16 tooth front most often (15 if extended offroad) reasoning the larger sprocket would increase life, and I replaced my front sprocket when it hit 8k miles regardless of how it looked. Fuck chains..
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:07 AM   #110
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yeah fuck chains. They're so complex and failure prone. Nothing like a finely engineered and maintained shaft.

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Old 11-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherguy View Post
yeah fuck chains. They're so complex and failure prone. Nothing like a finely engineered and maintained shaft.



Can't win. Chains are simple and have good aspects, but having to constantly change them every 15k is a pita. You run through some deep sand and the first thing that hits your mind when you return to asphalt is "fuck, I need to clean my chain.."

Ill stick with chains due to weight, better power transfer, no jacking of the rear, and no worries of snappage (belt), but thats only because I'm into dual sports where a chain is almost a must..
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:57 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
OP, did you ever find a setup that works for you?
I'll be honest, I never did.

Here are the reasons: for one, despite all the helpful comments in this thread, choice of chain oiler still seemed confusing. And they're not cheap.

And finally, this last chain I installed, I decided I wouldn't maintain it at all, other than to occasionally spray it with DuPont Chain Saver. I don't clean it at all.

Well... I haven't looked recently, but it's by far my longest lasting chain, ever. I'm well over 20,000 miles with this last chain. Apparently, my efforts to meticulously clean my previous chains was in vain.

So.. someday I still might look for a chain oiler, but right now my current system is working pretty well.

Jamie
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:31 PM   #113
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Z View Post
I'll be honest, I never did.

Here are the reasons: for one, despite all the helpful comments in this thread, choice of chain oiler still seemed confusing. And they're not cheap.

And finally, this last chain I installed, I decided I wouldn't maintain it at all, other than to occasionally spray it with DuPont Chain Saver. I don't clean it at all.

Well... I haven't looked recently, but it's by far my longest lasting chain, ever. I'm well over 20,000 miles with this last chain. Apparently, my efforts to meticulously clean my previous chains was in vain.

So.. someday I still might look for a chain oiler, but right now my current system is working pretty well.

Jamie
Interesting. Kind of goes in line with my first chain as I didnt clean it very often. That said, I put that one through total hell so I might just be expecting too much. The second one however I expected to get at least 20k out of since I didnt do as many water crossings, did a lot more asphalt, and cleaned/lubed it meticulously. Instead it does only 2k more

I have Dupont Chain Saver in the 4oz squeeze bottle and will be using that this chain to see.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #114
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The current chain on my Tuono has 33K miles on it and it's got some life left. Rarely cleaned but lubed a lot with the DuPont Multi-Purpose in the blue can. I do replace the front sprocket at 15K miles or so. There is something to that stuff.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:00 AM   #115
allonsye
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Pcv

Off topic - Actually there's recent data I've read proven positive crankcase ventilation is more beneficial to (particularly m/c) internal combustion engines than not. It has to do with pressure differentials produced by the moving pistons to the crankcase. Turns out it is actually a delicate balance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_dan View Post
they exhale at a greater rate than they inhale. No dust can get in there. There is a youtube vid showing this using a balloon on the end of the hose.
Virtually all older vehicles used to have the vent open to the atmosphere and in some cases way down low, close to the ground. The only reason they changed this is the epa wanted to re-burn the oily gasses.

It does work and it's mostly free.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:18 AM   #116
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Chain Oiler - My observations

PDoiler installed a few years ago on my Weestrom - works flawlessly, excellent piece of kit. At the time was $106 usd shipped from England. He did have an ebay store at one time. It's the best value I could find out there. I've modified it recently to discharging onto the outer perimeter of the the rear sprocket instead of the wick to chain - centrifugal force working nicely to force the 90wt into the chain and less consequent splatter to the wheel.
http://ptlube.co.uk/motorcycle-chain-oiler/

Dupont lube manually otherwise is the 2nd best route in my experience and a cleaning in diesel every now and then. But it's really nice to have a chain drive bike that I can more or less treat like a shaft drive bike -- need just check the oil reservoir every oil change. I think it uses 500 cc of 90 wt every 8k miles. There's a sort of self cleaning going on to - the 90wt flushes/flings the gunk/dirt away.

Larger counters do seem to cause less chain wear.
Replacing counters at 10k seems to extend chain wear.

My guesstimate is the auto-oiler has doubled chain/sprocket life (from 15k to 35k). I've not kept track though of the type of 525 o-ring chains I've been using. Replacing the counter extends that further but I've not calculated by how much - but on a very very very long tour, better than having to replace the whole ball of wax and done in a pinch. What's also really nice is not having to worry about chain maintenance particularly in long distance touring. I'd say the $106 well paid for itself inside of 50k miles all things considered.

If your riding a lot in dirt and mud. You'll want to mount the oiler controller somewhere where you can adjust the rate of flow while riding since water does wash the lube away -- when it's dry a lower rate of flow is needed. In my case I tucked the controller down next to the fuse tray since most of riding is asphalt - set it and forget it.

Hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Gonna cautiously bump this thread back from the nether.

I am in the same boat as Jamie was/is, though my situation is 2 chains instead of 5.

I put 25600 miles on my DR650 in 5 months and went through 2 chains. The good thing about this time frame is that I get to see in a condensed timespan how my chain wears.

The first was a DID VM2 Xring chain. Not knowing any better, I cleaned the chain with WD40 and would put Bel Ray chain lube on it (a brief period of Dupont Dry Wax teflon lube since I had a bottle). I did TONS of dirt, water crossings, mud, and sand- TAT arkansas & oklahoma, multiple trails around moab, the dalton, road to Mccarthy, mineral creek road out of Valdez, road to Circle, Denali hwy, etc. At 13k miles, the DID had red dust sprinkling out and a number of links started kinking. When I pulled the master link apart (installed by a local pro small shop guru with 20 years experience since I hadnt pressed a link on before), it was bone dry with a nice layer of rust. Ground the rivets off one of the main links and same deal. It should be noted the Bel Ray stuff was thick and sticky and the chain would look terrible after dirt. Even WD40 had a hard time cleaning the chain.

I replaced it with a RK Racing Xring chain. More asphalt on this chain, but still did the New England Backcountry route, and a good portion of the TET. This time, I used a completely different approach as I accredited the short chain life of my prior chain to me cleaning with WD40 and using the Bel Ray stuff. I used Diesel fuel to clean the chain and lubed the chain with any thin dry lube I could find reasoning that with less lube, I would leave less for dirt to stick to. I have used Liquid Wrench Silicone spray (for rust protection and orings/xrings), LW chain lube (mostly this), and various other dry lubes. At 15k miles now, the chain is starting to be stiff, one link consistently kinks (not the master), its starting to need frequent adjustments, and its giving me driveline rumble.

I just received my new chain, which is simply a DID V8 Oring chain. It just needs to last until I head for SA where I will fit a DID VX2 and new sprockets. Wtf do I try now? Im considering a Scottoiler, Loobman, or Pro Oiler and using 90wt gear oil, but I ride tons of dirt so this has its negatives too.

OP, did you ever find a setup that works for you?

It should be noted- the DR runs a 525 chain, I used a 16 tooth front most often (15 if extended offroad) reasoning the larger sprocket would increase life, and I replaced my front sprocket when it hit 8k miles regardless of how it looked. Fuck chains..
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Current:
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06' 650 Vstrom

allonsye screwed with this post 11-18-2013 at 07:35 AM
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