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Old 10-22-2012, 05:07 AM   #346
pkboxer
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Need for resistor

Snowbum says :Resistor discussion: Nearly any type of resistor may be used. It can be the old-fashioned type called 'carbon composition', or any modern type of 'film' or 'deposited carbon' type....or even a 'wire wound' type. The resistor value CAN be 470 ohms, but my tests indicate that 330 ohms is better.

I have the resistor set up and didn't grasp exactly why it was needed...

Until yesterday when i redid the wire and forgot the resitor.

Bike started fine, ran fine. But wouldn't shut off. It was self energizing backwards from the charging circuit.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:18 AM   #347
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Originally Posted by craydds View Post
Thank you. I need to update that part of my website... the SR500 and Enfield projects aren't on there yet.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:11 PM   #348
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pics

Most of it seems to work:


Got the settings entered:


I entered 1480 mm tire circumference, per one (1) tire revolution "P-001". I will adjust this to get the correct speed, using my GPS for reference. For the "RPM SPC-X.X" I entered 2.0 for the number of engine rotations per signal; this seems logical but I don't know if it will work correctly. What is the correct entry? I will test it tomorrow for RPM and speedometer readings.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:46 AM   #349
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A lot of the final adjustments are trial and error, as you suggest...

Airhead engines fire once every revolution (it sparks both sides at once, one is a "wasted" spark) but I wouldn't be positive which setting works... you will be able to tell when you start the engine, whether the tach is right, or at half- or double-speed!

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Old 10-31-2012, 02:32 PM   #350
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you will be able to tell when you start the engine, whether the tach is right, or at half- or double-speed!
Yeehaw! Fired it up. The tach works... at double the rpm. Re-entered the correct setting of 1 signal per revolution, started it up and the tach reads just right. bpeckm was right! It fires every rotation.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:19 AM   #351
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Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
It can be wired to the coil IF you have the beancan/solid state ignition. Otherwise, wrap around the ht sparkplug lead.

If you look at this diagram which is also on Page 1 of this thread, it is pin #10 if you want to pick up the signal from the black wire headed into the rubber block:



I would be happy to send this as a pdf if anybody wants it, just pm me, or email me: bpeckm at gmail dot com.
I used this diagram to wire up my /6 and it worked great. The blue wire from the BMW harness I wired into one side of an aftermarket indicator light I found at the auto parts store and the other wire on the light I plugged into the extra green/black slot on the wire board inside the headlight bucket and the charge light worked great. I was able to find an indicator light that plugged right into one of the existing holes in the headlight bucket. The main hot lead/clock wire on the Acewell I ran to the red to the wire board. Everything works. Thank you for the diagram.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:12 AM   #352
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Everything works. Thank you for the diagram.
Cool! + 1 with thanks to bpeckm. Got mine all connected, everything works, except for the oil pressure light. Turns out that the oil pressure sending unit was not working. Easy test - touch the connection at the sending unit directly to ground on the engine case, the oil pressure lamp lights up (engine not running), connect to sending unit, no light. Ordered new sending unit. I have not tested the speedo yet. Maybe tomorrow. Again, many thanks to bpeckm and fellow inmates for their pioneering work.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:03 PM   #353
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Gotta say, these several YEARS after I wrote and posted that page, that it's a good feeling to have something work for a lotta folks.... I have gotten my share of 'hep' from inmates, and am glad that we can all share and pass around what we learn...

Any day you learn something new is a good one!



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Old 11-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #354
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im confused with a couple things here? I installed everything but a few wires.

Blue is for gas, cap and hide. no problem there.

Here is where im confused.

the brown from the acewell goes to power for the clock. Well, my brown wire isn't connected and the clock is on and set

so I coonected the brown to power (red) anyway and it still seems ok. what gives, is there any reason to have the brown wire from the acewell hooked up as my clock seems to be working anyway. Should I just cap and hide the brown or do I need to keep it connected for some reason I am not familiar with?

Also with the turn signals do I connect them directly to the acewell or do I go to the fuse board thing

I see that some people use the wires directly from the turn signal to the acewell. do they still blink properly etc? I thought they had to be connected to the relay?

im confused and a noob at this.

thanks
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:58 PM   #355
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the brown from the acewell goes to power for the clock. Well, my brown wire isn't connected and the clock is on and set

so I coonected the brown to power (red) anyway and it still seems ok. what gives, is there any reason to have the brown wire from the acewell hooked up as my clock seems to be working anyway. Should I just cap and hide the brown or do I need to keep it connected for some reason I am not familiar with?

Also with the turn signals do I connect them directly to the acewell or do I go to the fuse board thing

I see that some people use the wires directly from the turn signal to the acewell. do they still blink properly etc? I thought they had to be connected to the relay?
I assume you have the BMW green/black connected to Acewell red for power (+) when the key is ON, this would run the clock only with key ON.
Acewell brown to BMW red is for unswitched power to keep your clock always on, even when the key is OFF. What happens when you turn off your key? Is your clock off?
Turn signal leads from the Acewell could: 1) go into the headlight bucket and connect to the panel, Acewell orange to BMW blue/red (left turn), and Acewell white to BMW blue/black (right turn); 2) connect Acewell wires directly to BMW turn signal wires at turn signal lamps. You don't have to deal with the relay in any fashion. Look at post #320 for an example of wiring the Acewell turn signals wires directly to the BMW turn signal lamps; one could just as easily splice Acewell wires to BMW wires, or connect to the BMW fuse panel.
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craydds screwed with this post 11-21-2012 at 04:46 AM
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:04 PM   #356
tete
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I don't believe I have a green and black at this harness. Maybe the horn harness ? Ill have to chck but I'm pretty sure.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #357
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I think your green/blue is equivalent to my green/black. My bike is a '75 R90S and yours is a '75 R90/6, correct? There are some slight differences. I'll check my wiring diagrams.
checked schematics, they show green/black and/or green/blue as positive (+) with the key ON
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craydds screwed with this post 11-20-2012 at 07:23 PM Reason: additions
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #358
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For your turn signal connections, here is a look at the fuse panel at post #213, several pictures down the page show blue/red is left turn and blue black is right turn; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...750343&page=15 .
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craydds screwed with this post 11-21-2012 at 04:42 AM
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:32 PM   #359
tete
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I have my acewell red connected to my grey w black stripe. So right now here is what I have left wire wise


I have the black and white, blue and green w blue stripe
On the ace well side I have white and the orange. I will connect these to the signals as commented earlier.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #360
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Also of this is the case which power the additional indicator lamp for the generator, which a separate lamp all together if I am correct.
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