South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by LethPhaos

Do you have gps coords for the ruinas you found?

Hi LethPhaos,

I only get free camping co-ords like at El Tigre Ruinas. Although I did get the waypoint for some cool pyramids way out in the jungle near the Belize/Guatemala border today. Bigger than anything I saw at Palenque. The biggest one had to be 10 stories high.

N 18º 22.736'
W 89º 53.686'

oops. I just checked google earth and the above is a waypoint for an abandoned rock quarry that would have been good for free camping. The pyramids were 40 kilometers south.

I'll post pics in a minute when they finish uploading.

Best,
John Downs

[QuestForADV]

Originally Posted by JDowns

This afternoon I wandered around backroads and hiked up pyramids. Never made it out of the State of Campeche (Com-pay-chay). The only main road over to the next State of Quintana Roo is straight as an arrow in most places:

or down a road these guys were strutting down;

I see you found a replacement for your Turkey Dinner!

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by QuestForADV

I see you found a replacement for your Turkey Dinner!

Actually the vultures down here are as big as wild turkeys back home. Although I did see some interesting birds out in the jungle foraging that were as big as turkeys this morning. Only they had irridescent plumage. sort of looked like a cross between a turkey and a peacock. I took a picture but they were fast little devils and were out of the frame.

Best,
John Downs

[TUCKERS]

If you go to Belize you can hop a freighter from Puerto Cortez to the Isles Tres Marias!

[JDowns]

Pretty magical day today. Felt like I was on another planet. Here was the view from the highest pyramid I have climbed so far looking out over the jungle towards Belize and Guatemala with minor pyramids sticking their heads out down below. The puffy white clouds passing by looked like they came from the backdrop of a surrealist Salvador Dali painting. I was the only one out here:



more later….

[JDowns]

And looking down ten stories. Those 5 giant stelas at the bottom are 15 feet high and four feet wide. The stairs are each 18 inch rise and 8 inch run. So about a 60 degree slope straight up. And this isn't even shot from the top. You lose this view as you climb the next two staircases to the top. This thing is massive:



I had the run of the place. Really fun climbing all over the place and checking out interior passageways and staircases. Would have been a great place to play with your friends as a kid. Well okay, as long as your Mom didn't find out about the forty foot vertical drops here and there.

It's taking a while for pictures to upload out here in the sticks.

stand by….

[Idahosam]

Originally Posted by JDowns

Pretty magical day today. Felt like I was on another planet. Here was the view from the highest pyramid I have climbed so far looking out over the jungle towards Belize and Guatemala with minor pyramids sticking their heads out down below. I was the only one out here:



more later….

So John is this Calakmul Ruins? If so, You sir are indeed off the beaten path.

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by Idahosam

So John is this Calakmul Ruins? If so, You sir are indeed off the beaten path.

Yes, that's the place. 60 kilometers down a road through some sort of protected biosphera area. I only passed one car going through. The road narrows down to one lane and is like a roller coaster for the last 40 kilometers winding up and down and through the jungle. Most fun road I've been on in Campeche. No people or houses. Or food or water or gas for that matter which is why I'm not still down there camping.

Saludos,
Juanito

[crashmaster]

i'll tell you what Juanito. If you ever get to San Diego, you are going to ride the KTM. Maybe I shouldnt do that and ruin your life forever, but after that, you are going to be looking to buy one. The good news is that a nice KTM 950/990 will cost WAY less than a BM. I know where you can pick up a nice one for under 5000 bucks, aint that right Sam?

Yet (try to explain that word in Spanish ) I think your super sherpa is the tool for the job. Just sayin'.

Great report amigo! I appreciate all the hard work. And I know, it is hard work! Even though I only posted about once a month, I thought, "damn, this internet report thing is getting in the way of me having fun." Youre doing a great job! As a fellow moto vagabond, I totally appreciate the places you are going and the things that you are documenting. Well done!

Salud! Vin

[JDowns]

Started out yesterday thinking I would head for the Carribean. Never made it there. Instead ended up turning down this road towards Calakmul. Looked inviting. 60 kilometers. Straightish road for the first 20 :



I am always looking for free places to camp, so checked out this jeep trail that hooked off the road around a bend just before the 19km mark and ended up in an abandoned limestone quarry:

N 18º 22.736'
W 89º 53.686'



They had built this rather nice cultural and historical museum right in the road. You had to take a detour around it to continue on. Nice Mastadon and crocodillo skeletons and pictures of local wildlife and archaeological Mayan information as well:





I was the only one there out in the middle of nowhere. No admission. Just the receptionist and some park maintenance people out back. I asked about camping and the maintenance guy said I could camp in the grass over behind the museum no problem. Nice relaxed peaceful place.

The road narrowed to one lane as it continued on and was like a tunnel through the jungle of time leading to a lost world:



Really fun riding. Bobbing and weaving through a shady cool tunnel. Most fun road I've been on in Campeche. Finally ended at a parking lot with a 46 peso entrance fee. I was the only one there. Other than the maintenance people at the main gate.

This place is huge and covers a lot of ground. I spent pretty much the whole day wandering around the jungle looking at ruins that hadn't been restored out in the bushes along with ones that had:



You only got a hint of the way things were 1000 years ago. This carved wall reminded me of looking at marble gravestones in pioneer cemeteries back home and trying to make out the name and date:



I spent pretty much all day wandering around here. The pictures don't show the wildlife, birds, butterflies and natural beauty that was all around. I heard what sounded like someone cutting a metal pipe with a hacksaw and finally saw the monkey up in the tree that was making the repetitive call. Lots of beautiful birds calling me out as I invaded their space. Fluttering wings in the bushes. And some beautiful large iridescent dark blue butterflies with light blue eyes on their wings. Monarchs and large orange butterflies as well. And beautiful views out over the jungle from the top of the pyramid looking out towards Guatemala in the distance:



Since it takes a while to come out here and explore and its off the beaten track I don't know if I would recommend this place to most people. Unless you enjoy nature and a tranquil vibe and have some time to spend the day. I sure enjoyed it. There are no services out here and I was getting hungry and it was still afternoon so headed back out to civilization and checked out the Becan ruins right off the main road to Chetamul. Nice carved stone:







Nice weather today. It's 8am and I'm heading out to who knows where. Yesterday spent 584 pesos or $46.72 on gas, food, park entrance fees and lodging.

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by crashmaster

i'll tell you what Juanito. If you ever get to San Diego, you are going to ride the KTM. Maybe I shouldnt do that and ruin your life forever, but after that, you are going to be looking to buy one. The good news is that a nice KTM 950/990 will cost WAY less than a BM. I know where you can pick up a nice one for under 5000 bucks, aint that right Sam?

Yet (try to explain that word in Spanish ) I think your super sherpa is the tool for the job. Just sayin'.

Great report amigo! I appreciate all the hard work. And I know, it is hard work! Even though I only posted about once a month, I thought, "damn, this internet report thing is getting in the way of me having fun." Youre doing a great job! As a fellow moto vagabond, I totally appreciate the places you are going and the things that you are documenting. Well done!

Salud! Vin

Hola Vinnie,

Listen, if I was young, rich and handsome like you then I would buy a 990 in a heartbeat. Love the sound of that motor.

Glad to have you along for the ride. I enjoy writiing these ride reports.

Saludos,
Juanito

[OldPete]

Outstanding! Thanks for this update Juanito.

Did some quick reading about Calakmul and water is available at the entrance, probably bottled.
Stealth travel has advantages not to be discounted.

Best Regards,
OldPete

[Idahosam]

Morning, Oh, I mean buenos días Senior. Thoroughly enjoyed that exploratory side trip. Amazing what your finding off the beaten path.

Here's some good stuff to read if you have time: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calakmul histrory about the fights between the city states.

I will reiterate, I think you are on the perfect machine for your adventure.

[Mr B]

Just curious if you did a lot or research on the history of the area, the people the land etc... Seems to me you have found, discovered or stumbled on a gem of a place that few see.
If you did read some info, I would be interested to know the names, I like to read history of cultures and places
Thanks again for all the reports, good reading..

[Dooga]

All caught up. Thanks so much for journaling this.