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Old 11-17-2012, 10:55 AM   #16
Pray4Snow OP
Saddle Monkey
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
Day 4
July 17, 2012
Odometer 19,798km


· On the road by 07:45 and grabbed brekky in Houston around 10:00. Should be in Prince Rupert around 2 or 3.
· Gretta, my black and orange beauty, should turn 20,000km today … will try to get a picture.


Missed the actual event … a bit late.



· Tried hard-mounting the Drift to the engine guard on the left-hand side. It’s within reach to be able to operate the controls with my left hand while riding. Will try shooting some video and stills today.
· Landscape was interesting … shortly after breakfast, I would start to get glimpses of mountains through the trees to the west. As the day wore on, the terrain got more and more mountainous. After lunch, the rivers beside the road started to look less riverine, and more ‘fjord-like’.
·
·






· Pulled into Prince Rupert around 4 (I think) and found Tall Trees Bed and Breakfast without any trouble. BTW … the choice of something other than camping turned out to be a good one. Originally, I did this because I didn’t relish the notion of breaking camp (especially if it was raining) at some ungodly-hour of the morning in order to make the 6am check-in for the ferry. As it turned out, this was a good decision for another reason too … this was a fantastic place to stay. Beautifully renovated, the promise of fresh baking for breakfast, and a movie collection to envy … I wish I would have more time, even if only to watch a few days more of the movies! And the proprietress of the B&B, Andrea, was super-nice, and helpful with information about town and the ferry-boarding process. I checked in, unpacked, and grabbed a HOT shower.
· After getting dressed (in something other than synthetic under-gear clothing for a change), I grabbed my camera and set out to see the town and grab some fresh seafood. PR isn’t a big town, and the B&B was relatively close to the waterfront, so I hoofed it.






·
· The fellow rider I had met on the first night (Mark, from Chino … http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=10 ) had recommended a place called Dolly’s Fish Market. He had made some crack about the place being ”fairly fancy” and having “fine linen” on the tables, so I got all dolled-up in my finest outfit (translation: my last pair of clean ginch, and anything that didn’t smell of cigar smoke) and went in search of Dolly’s. As it turns out, Mark must have a pretty dry sense of humor, because the place was a bit more up my alley … not terribly fancy at all. It’s an actual fish market … when you walk in from the street, the room is filled with glass-front cases full of fresh seafood … not unlike a small butcher shop or deli. If you come in far enough, you can see a small seating area to the right … sort of tucked behind the cases and beside the kitchen, seating maybe 20 people. But good seafood? You bet! (And cold beer!) Had calamari to start with, followed by the ‘seafood platter’ (haddock, shrimp, scallops, smoked salmon, and fries). Their target clientele must be 'big' people ... almost everything was deep fried ... but still really good. If you live in a land-locked province and only get fresh seafood a couple of times a year, it can’t be called ‘gluttony’ … more like ‘compressing a year’s worth of something good, into 24hours’.







· After filling my gullet, I wandered out to continue my tour of the water front. I stopped at a beer store on the way home for ‘provisions’ and made my way back to Tall Trees.




· After chatting with Andrea for a few minutes, I headed up to my room to repack everything for an early departure, enjoy some cold bevvies, and watch a couple of movies from Andrea’s extensive collection.
· Milage: 522km
· Libation: Lots … a couple of bottles with dinner, and a random assortment of tall-cans ‘to-go’ from the beerstore.
· Smoke: Not tonight.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:07 AM   #17
BenZens
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Great ride report, I am looking forward to reading more. Really interested in the ferry trip as it is something I plan to do.

Ben
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:11 AM   #18
Pray4Snow OP
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Great ride report, I am looking forward to reading more. Really interested in the ferry trip as it is something I plan to do.

Ben
Ben,
I'm just pulling the video, pics, and notes together now for the ferry trip. Bottom line: Before I left, I wasn't sure whether the trip was going to be worth the price, non-riding day, etc. Now, without a doubt, it was one of the highlights of the trip. Definitely worth the price of admission!
P4S
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:21 AM   #19
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Cool trip and some really nice pics! Looking forward to more
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:53 AM   #20
BenZens
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Originally Posted by Pray4Snow View Post
Ben,
I'm just pulling the video, pics, and notes together now for the ferry trip. Bottom line: Before I left, I wasn't sure whether the trip was going to be worth the price, non-riding day, etc. Now, without a doubt, it was one of the highlights of the trip. Definitely worth the price of admission!
P4S
Gee what a way to build the suspense! How much was the ferry ticket?

Ben
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:11 PM   #21
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Gee what a way to build the suspense! How much was the ferry ticket?

Ben
It was a little over $400 for me and the bike.
P4S
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #22
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
Day 5
July 18th, 2012
Odometer: 20,320

· Up around 05:15. The ship didn’t sail until 07:30, but friggin’ BC Ferries requires you to be there 90 minutes prior to sailing, or else they can give your spot away. I thought maybe this was just the propaganda that the ferry service posts in order to get folks there in time to be processed (like the airlines), but when I asked Andrea, she said it wasn’t just a hollow threat. After a hot coffee at Andrea’s, and pocketing a couple of fresh blueberry muffins for the road, I was off.
· They were putting all the bikes into one lane at the ferry loading area, so I was able to shoot the breeze with a few other two-wheeled travellers. Didn’t even have enough time to grab another coffee before they loaded the bikes (first) onto the ship … the mighty M. V. Northern Expedition.


· The loading and tie-down process went better than expected. The bike was centered between two recessed cleats, propped on its sidestand, and a tiered block placed under the low side of the bash-plate. Then a 3 or 4 inch tie-down was passed over the saddle, anchored between the cleats, and cinched down tight against the block. The staff member who did the cinching was over enthusiastic (in my opinion), but when I checked the bash-plate, it didn’t look like it had bent or buckled.

All safe and secured



· Although they loaded the bikes first, it didn’t hurry the loading process (they still had to load everybody else), so I had a fair amount of time to kill once I was on board. Took the opportunity to stake out a seat, and capture some footage of the activity around the loading process.

Relic is alive and well!!


The grain terminal in Prince Rupert



· The ship seemed fairly new, and well appointed. Cafeteria (licensed!), fine-dining restaurant, gift shop, etc. You could book cabins or a spot in the first-class lounge for a fee (which I passed on) but the normal ‘steerage’ seating was made of comfortable leather lounge chairs. Just like the Caribbean cruise we did last winter, I seemed to spend the entire time trying to figure out where the hell I was on the boat … all those corridors and decks look the same.



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Old 11-22-2012, 08:26 PM   #23
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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· The crossing took around 15 hours, with one stop at Bella Bella to drop and take on passengers. The ‘inside passage’ route is quite picturesque, and calm. For most of the route, the channel is only a few hundred metres across … more like going down a wide river, than at sea … so the waters were quite calm. No real chop until the last little sprint across open ocean from the exit of the channel to the north end of Vancouver Island.








· Daylight broke while I was in line at the Prince Rupert terminal, and didn’t fall until about 30 minutes from Port Hardy, so the sightseeing was phenomenal. Low cloud for most of the day, but clear as a bell at water level, so all sorts of wildlife were visible: bald eagles, sea lions, whales, and pacific white-sided dophins. I did my best snapping stills with the video camera, but after reviewing the results when I got home, I was really wishing I hadn’t sent the good stills-camera with the Mrs.









Easily the highlight of the trip ... this is only a fraction of the wildlife I saw on the trip ... sorry for the camera-shake. My little HD video cam has an incredible zoom (40x), and without a tripod the image is pretty shakey, even with the stabilization option on.




· The ship arrived at Prince Rupert around 10:30pm. I was beat and just wanted to get to bed. Luckily, I had pre-booked a motel room not far from the ferry terminal, and had pre-programed the location into the GPS. I managed to beat most of the traffic from the ferry to town, and didn’t have to wait to check in. After unpacking the bike-luggage into the room (I had been smart enough to request a ground-level room when I booked), a quick shower, and a brief use of the wi-fi to check messages, I packed it in.

· Libation: A couple of beers in the cafeteria
· Smoke: none … strictly verboten on BC Ferries … at least the normal tobacco kind.
· Tunes: Audiobooks: “The Lonely Men” and “Mojave Crossing” by Louis L’Amour. Assorted tunes while I napped.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:09 PM   #24
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
Day 6
July 19th, 2012
Odometer: 20,332

· Up around 8 to a beautiful, clear morning, packed the bike, and went for brekky at the motel restaurant; got a nice window looking over the harbour. Had just tucked into a nice plate of eggs, bacon, and potatoes, when I decided to make use of the wifi to check messages. Found out one of my staff had been in a minor ‘incident’, so spent about an hour on the phone trying to make sure everyone was alright, and getting the OH&S paperwork started.

· Pulled out around 9:45. Set the Drift up on the engine guard again … wasn’t sure it was going to work, but thought I might as well set it up. Played with it along the way, but the GD thing seemed to be turning itself on and off … must be a loose connection.

· Even by 10am, it was already hotter than stink. The Inland Island Highway was more ‘freeway-esque’ than I had expected. The GPS and my map showed a secondary/tertiary road that would cut the corner between Hwys 19 and 4. I had lots of time and thought it might be a nice change. Had trouble finding the start due to a new subdivision, but eventually found it. The road was in good shape, but a couple of minutes in discovered that it was an active haul road for logging trucks, and was heavily wooded on the sides, so there was nothing to see whatsoever. Decided that discretion was the better part of valour and turned around.

· Hwy 4 towards Port Alberni was a little less ‘freeway-ish’ than 19, but still lots of tourist traffic. Either there are lots of folks trying to recreate the ‘hippy’ scene of the 60’s, or this is just where old VW vans go to die … friggin’ microbuses everywhere!

· Stopped in Port Alberni for water and to visit Island Rhino Surf Shop. Chatted with the lady behind the counter for a few minutes, and she set me up with a couple of stickers for the bike.

· Was starting to miss the wife and kids (who would have guessed?!) so decided to push on to Long Beach and the Green Point campground without any further delay.

· Pulled into the campground around 3:30 … sign said ‘No Vacancy’, but I knew the wife and kids were already here. Took me a while to find our site, and when I got there, there was nobody home. The van and bicycles were still there, so I knew they couldn’t be far. I backed the bike down the long drive to the tent pad, and started getting changed out of my riding gear. I was just about to go for a walk and look for them down on the beach, when they came wandering up the road. They were on their way back from trying their hand at 'surfing'. Susan's pictures (not posted here) showed all the adults on that beach in full wetsuits ... and my two surf-monkeys in their bikinis! (Edmonton chicks are TOUGH!!)

· Went for dinner in Ucluelet … yet another feed of fresh seafood. Nice little town … definitely a tourist town, but not quite so busy as Tofino. Dinner was on a permanently moored ship called the ‘Canadian Princess’. Nicely done, and a ton of sea life could be seen in the harbour … even just from the gangways to the boat. Bald eagles, deer, starfish, an octopus, and assorted fish.



·
Headed back to the campground and did a bit of beachcombing, rock climbing, etc.




· Libations: A couple of local craft-brews at the restaurant, and some craft-brews that Susan had bought for me in Powell River back at the campfire. And a wee dram of Glen Breton 10yr that my buddy Scott brought back from a visit to the distillery in NS.







· Stogey: Macanudo




· Milage: 489km.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:13 PM   #25
Pray4Snow OP
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
***EDITORS NOTE: From this point on, the trip became a very different beast. Instead of riding solo and answering to no one’s timetable but that of my bladder and my fuel tank, it became a bit more of a traditional family road trip. We would travel separately during the day (the wife and kids taking the primary highways, and me on the secondaries or whatever I could find), and meeting up again in the evening. I actually got this idea from a former professor of mine who has travelled in a similar way with his family ("How not to score sex, drugs, and country music on a motorcycle")

Susan and the kids did pretty well tenting it. Susan didn’t grow up camping, and hadn’t tented since we had kids. The kids have only ever known the comfort of our trailer for camping. All in all they did pretty well. Susan was pretty resourceful and capable, and apart from a couple of nights in bear-country, they all slept in the tent.

Although the ride report from this point on will focus on the riding I did on the bike, there will still be lots of family stuff. I know, I know … not very ‘ADV’ of me, but it’s what worked for us this year. Resulted in a decent balance of riding some new roads and spending time with the family. -P4S***
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:49 PM   #26
Frostback
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Late to get to this one but a very nice read for the snowy Edmonton winter. I fully understand why you in particular want to see the Wacky Bennet Dam.

thanks,

Lee
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:14 PM   #27
Pray4Snow OP
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Late to get to this one but a very nice read for the snowy Edmonton winter. I fully understand why you in particular want to see the Wacky Bennet Dam.
thanks,
Lee
Thanks Lee. It wasn't the only water-related stop. Stay tuned!
P4S
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:58 AM   #28
Pray4Snow OP
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
Day 7
July 20th, 2012
Odometer: 20,821

· The weather had turned overnight, so we woke up to typical west-coast weather. Intermittent rain showers, separated by periods of fog and mist.
· Only thing planned today was to whip into Tofino, have a look around and a bite to eat.
· I took the bike while the rest of the family went in the van. I had it in my mind that I hadn’t really ridden to the west coast if I hadn’t taken the bike to Tofino. Weather was shitty, and it was only around 25 km to Tofino, but it had to be done. (Besides, going cold-turkey from riding to caging might be bad for my health ;-) ) Nice road but lots of traffic. Never got above 3rd gear.

Hippy-wear ... also know as 'Tofino Camouflage'



· Tofino was a zoo. Found parking for the bike and the van, changed out of my riding gear, and went for stroll. Was still raining a bit, but bearable. Did a bit of shopping, and had lunch at The Schooner … a nice converted house with lots of rough-hewn wood. Fantastic chowder (just what the doctor ordered on a cold wet day) and seafood. Also, was introduced to the fine products of the Tofino Brewing Company. We had seen the sign for the brewery at the edge of town, and decided to try a couple with lunch. Fantastic.




· Stopped in at the other surf shop I had on my ‘to-do’ list … Storm Surf. Again, got talking with the guy at the counter, and he set me up with stickers for the bike.
· Went into the little grocery store to pick up a few things, and ran into Sarah McLachlan. Susan wanted to go and get a picture with her, but she was obviously shopping, and had her kids in-tow so we decided against it. Was a neat celebrity encounter none the less.
· Putzed around Tofino for a bit more, and then decided to head back to the campsite. On the way out of town, we pulled into the Tofino Brewing Company. They seem pretty new … the ‘gift shop/tasting bar was just a small space at one end of the production floor. Chatted with the girl working the shop/bar. Apparently, at the moment they only produce draft beers … no bottling. Hence, their products are only available in local restaurants. I had hoped to buy some bottles to take home as gifts, but since it’s draft it doesn’t last more than a few days once it’s decanted. They do sell growlers, and even though it would take up a significant portion of our cooler we grabbed a few litres of their Reign In Blonde. I have to say, this beer, served at ‘ice-in-a-cooler-full-of food’ temperature was fantastic … easily the best one I tried all trip! It didn’t last long. If we’d had more room in the cooler, I would have liked to have grabbed some more for the road.
· Headed back to camp. Had dinner and went to bed in good time ... in the rain, of course.





· Libation: TBC’s Reign In Blonde
· Smoke: Pipe … Executive Blend
· Milage: 42km
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:19 PM   #29
Pray4Snow OP
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 95
Day 8 - 12
July 21 – July 25.
Odometer: 20863

· Journaling went all to hell, but not much to report since riding was at a minimum.
· Left Tofino on July 21 and made our way to Victoria for a 2-and-a-bit day visit with Susan’s cousin Anne, her fiancé Keith, and their munchkin Gibson. Took the slab the whole way … not much to report (apart from the fact that it had stopped raining!). Was vaguely aware of being on the same road as that retard who posted YouTube video of himself doing over 300kph last year.
· Had planned on making a stop at Island BMW to pass on some ‘positive reinforcement’ with respect to the fantastic support they (and BMW Canada) gave Alberto and Naomi through all their warranty BS in South America. I had looked up the address before I left (and confirmed against a number of other sources) but apparently they have moved in the not-to-recent past. Got a scenic tour of where they USED to be located, before hauling out the phone to find out where they were now.
· Got the new address … still more-or-less on the route to Keith and Anne’s. Arrived in time to watch somebody take delivery of a new R1200GS … was quite a family event … wife and kids in tow. Went in and bought some more chain lube and a t-shirt. Apparently, Brian (the guy who was so helpful to Alberto and Naomi) has since left the dealership and is going to culinary school on the lower mainland.
· Spent a couple of days doing some of the regular tourist stuff in Victoria (inner harbour during the International Street Performers Festival, pickle-boat ride in the harbour, pigged out on seafood (again), etc.). Keith and Anne live a short walk from the water front in Esquimalt … cool neighbourhood, good company … a super visit!


View of the shoreline near Keith and Anne's house, with WA in the background




· Left Keith and Anne’s place on the morning of the 23rd, and caught the ferry from Victoria over to Port Angeles on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula .

A view of Victoria Harbour from the ferry ... waiting for the cagers to be loaded.


The crossing





· We assumed that we’d get separated disembarking from the ferry, so we arranged to meet at the State Park office/ranger station on the outskirts of Port Angeles, and on the edge of Olympic NP. Being on a bike, and towards the front of the ship, I was way ahead of Sue and the girls, so I had some time to people-watch at the ranger station. Lots of folks checking-in with the ranger station to do some sort of backcountry hikes. Didn’t seem like a lot of ‘seasoned’ backcountry folks here … lots of brand-new gear. Either the local REI was having a sale, or this is some sort of entry-level trail for city folks to be able to check ‘backpacking’ off their bucket lists. Susan and the girls eventually made it to the station, and we had a picnic lunch on the lawn of the facility.
· The destination for the next couple of days was Kalaloch (The US Customs agent at the Port Angeles entry point gave Susan a quick lesson on the proper pronunciation … tourists say “Kah-lah-lock” … locals say “Klay-lock” … who knew?). Sue and the girls were planning to take the most direct route … Hwy 101 right from PA to Kalaloch. Since we didn’t have many miles to make, and since I was on a bike, I decided to try and stick to the coast as much as I could. Hwys 112 and 113 looked interesting on the map, although unless I wanted to back-track a bit, I’d have to rejoin Hwy 101 at some point.
· As much as it was only a short diversion from the inland route, this became one of my more memorable legs of the trip. Only a rider can appreciate the difference that smell can make to a trip, as compared to caging it. Hwy 112 is a narrow, well-paved but heavily forested road. It has lots of twists and turns, but the views are limited by the trees. The memorable point was when the road started to descend from the highlands, down the escarpment, presumably to the ocean. And the first indication you had of your presence to the ocean was the smell of salt water … a good 5 minutes before you actually saw the coast line! Cool as shit for this Alberta boy!
· After the road swings away from the ocean and you start to climb back up the escarpment, there was a bit of logging-truck traffic, but the drivers were professional and courteous, and I was easily able overtake when it was safe. In fact, this was my first observation of the cagers in general in WA … nice as hell, courteous, and very rider-conscious. This would become apparent again in a few days at Mt. Rainier .
· Went through a small town called Forks. Susan had mentioned this has something to do with the Twilight movies … either filmed here or set here … although I didn’t notice any tourist traps (not that I stopped there).
· Arrived at Kalaloch … Susan and the girls were already there and had camp almost set up. The bike would be parked for next three days. We did lots of beachcombing, eating of seafood, hiking amongst the temperate rainforest, etc. Met a super-nice family from the Bothell/Lynnwood (north-edge of the Seattle area) with sons the same age as the girls … Sean, Susan, Will, and Ian. Spent a lot of enjoyable time with them walking the beaches of the area, showing my landlocked-daughters the tidal fauna, cooking s’mores, etc.

F800GS, a mini-van, and a Barbie bicycle ... how's that for a 'split-purpose' trip!



Exploring the campground a bit.





Rainforest hike





Beachcombing








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Old 01-27-2013, 06:49 PM   #30
blacktruck
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Thumb Can't think of a catchy title for my comment so this is what you get.

Yea man, I'm in. There are a some RR on here that have little mention of the family and real reason we all want to get home so quickly element of making a trip like this. Glad to see you are having a great time on both fronts with your report. Looks like you ate some good food and had a good drink or two and enjoyed yourself. That appears to be living well in my book. One of these days I hope to ride up there in that area too.
Stay safe there man....
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