How to make a KLR 650 more roadworthy on a budget?

[CHAPIN]

I can stretch the budget a bit to include the oil or increase his chores until he pays up the difference

I think that will make for a nice road handling KLR. Muchos thanks!

[acesandeights]

Originally Posted by CHAPIN

Will go as sugested with the fork if budget allows.

For the shock I need something that is plug and play, can't send shock to get rebuilt as the cost of shipping will make a brand new shock a lot more appealing, being not in the US and I don't trust any of the local shops except for the one that do the ohlins which has a great service, but I don't have ohlins on this bike

I believe Racetech offers a rear shock assembly for that bike, but I might be wrong.

[CHAPIN]

Originally Posted by south

If you don't mind skimming through, you can check the KLR project thread in my sig to see these mods firsthand.

Hmmmmmm... I want your bike!

Wish I had 10% of your mechanical/ tooling abilities. I can write mean computer code though LOL!

[south]

I've been around enough actual/real welders and machinists to know that I'm absolutely not one of them, but thanks all the same.

[Gooch]

If you spring for the intiminators, be sure to go with the lighter fork oil, as directed. It may seem counter-intuitive given that you're trying to decrease "dive," but they're engineered to work with it. Heavier fork oil (normal stuff) will mute their effectiveness.

[East Coast Rider]

Originally Posted by south

Cogent Dynamics Moab Adventurer shock: $480 http://www.motocd.com/cd/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=59.

Race Tech cartridge emulators #FEGV 3801: $145 from a number of online retailers--Google shopping is your friend.

Happy Trails fork brace: $100 http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650A/K...e-KLR650A.aspx

That leaves about $250 for the oversize rotor and SS brake line--fresh fork oil and brake fluid is considered to be "off budget".

With those upgrades and your Anakees, the KLR will rail on the streets --mine certainly does, although I went a slightly different route with regard to the front brake. And I'll recommend the EBC "Greens"/organic pads, especially when matched to the EBC oversize rotor. If you don't mind skimming through, you can check the KLR project thread in my sig to see these mods firsthand.

This is exactly what I did......plus a 16 tooth front sprocket.

[CHAPIN]

Originally Posted by Gooch

If you spring for the intiminators, be sure to go with the lighter fork oil, as directed. It may seem counter-intuitive given that you're trying to decrease "dive," but they're engineered to work with it. Heavier fork oil (normal stuff) will mute their effectiveness.

Good advise, I would have gone with heavier oil. What do you yhink of using ATF? I just had that thought.

[CHAPIN]

Got the shock, emulators, SS lines. Still got some $ left to try and get the thing to stop properly, might have to go a bit over budget.

Anyone tried the gel seat? It's a Do it yourself kit. Or should I make the kid work harder and wait till he can afford a proper corbin or something similar?

I'm at bay on the front sprocket "upgrade" still want the thing to be able to wheelie! It's a dualsport after all, never know when lifting the front end can be needed.

We don't have high speed highways around here, well a couple of them but we avoid riding them so I rather have a bit more low end punch than a few less revs at top gear. Pothole filled twisties is the game around here.

[CHAPIN]

A week ago my youngest kid turned 16 so next monday he was going to take his license test but he crashed on his enduro bike today. Dislocated shoulder and broken wrist. No license for at least 6 more weeks. Guess I get to play with the KLR for a bit longer.

I know, I know... Asshat dad and all that.

Hector

[beemerjim]

I'd look a cheap topcase (JC Whitney or the like) to keep your stuff locked and out of the weather.
Seat Concepts seat foam & cover (about $150) will make a big difference


JIm



.

[Beezer]

fork dive can be at least partially cured by proper servicing. at local tech days I have done maybe 3 dozen sets of Gen 1 forks... NONE had even the minimum oil per the manual. the dealers don't put enough in.... one was 200cc low per leg. anyway, the ORIGINAL oil level is 170mm. remove the springs, collapse the fork, fill until 170mm from the top. the book says 190 for later Gen 1, but 165-170 works great. trim with 10 psi air if you want a slight bit stiffer. more oil reduces the air column... thats where the dive comes from. stick with 10 wt oil, I use ATF.

as for the Ricors... YES, when you can afford them... way good. don't waste money buying springs... go straight to the Ricor valve, they work fine with stock springs. the oil level on Ricors is set to 40mm with 5 wt oil. thats what I have on mine. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil. after doing some flow tests that mix is the same as Belray 5 wt but a hell of a lot cheaper than $20 a can

fork brace is good. get the Eagle Mike so you can lower the fender

be sure the doo is done

[Myfuture_yourdebt]

Ricor Intiminators
Ricor IAS shock or CD Moab shock
16t front sprocket
Shinko 705s front and rear
Cargo of preference (I prefer tank panniers over a tank bag, etc.)
Adjust the mixture screw on the carb if you haven't already, and re-jet if necessary (lean factory settings)

[CHAPIN]

Originally Posted by beemerjim

I'd look a cheap topcase (JC Whitney or the like) to keep your stuff locked and out of the weather.
Seat Concepts seat foam & cover (about $150) will make a big difference


JIm



.

I had a small Givi top box that I reused on the KLR. The first farkle on any bike I have owned is always a top box. Good tip. Thanks.

Hector

[CHAPIN]

Originally Posted by Beezer

fork dive can be at least partially cured by proper servicing. at local tech days I have done maybe 3 dozen sets of Gen 1 forks... NONE had even the minimum oil per the manual. the dealers don't put enough in.... one was 200cc low per leg. anyway, the ORIGINAL oil level is 170mm. remove the springs, collapse the fork, fill until 170mm from the top. the book says 190 for later Gen 1, but 165-170 works great. trim with 10 psi air if you want a slight bit stiffer. more oil reduces the air column... thats where the dive comes from. stick with 10 wt oil, I use ATF.

as for the Ricors... YES, when you can afford them... way good. don't waste money buying springs... go straight to the Ricor valve, they work fine with stock springs. the oil level on Ricors is set to 40mm with 5 wt oil. thats what I have on mine. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil. after doing some flow tests that mix is the same as Belray 5 wt but a hell of a lot cheaper than $20 a can

fork brace is good. get the Eagle Mike so you can lower the fender

be sure the doo is done

I didn't installed the ricors and went with racetech springs... I'll try and get the ricors but I have been expanding the budget for this project a bit more than planned.

The bike developed this little problem this past week where the forks are compressing unevenly, the right tube dives faster and deeper.

Hector

[CHAPIN]

Originally Posted by Myfuture_yourdebt

Ricor Intiminators
Ricor IAS shock or CD Moab shock
16t front sprocket
Shinko 705s front and rear
Cargo of preference (I prefer tank panniers over a tank bag, etc.)
Adjust the mixture screw on the carb if you haven't already, and re-jet if necessary (lean factory settings)

I'm thinking about the tires. Shinkos are not available locally. I imported a set of anakee 2 that have not been installed yet. I'm wondering if I should go with IRC GPs instead since I just found out on friday that they are in stock locally.

Hector