KLR650 Only Thread......

[DirtyDog]

Originally Posted by XDragRacer

Neither does mine (2007 Kawasaki KLR650 Owner's Manual):...
Regardless, thanks for sharing your most interesting research.

Oils containing "friction modifiers" or formulated with some "energy-conserving" association may indeed be detrimental to wet clutches; just didn't recall any Kawasaki advice to that effect.

Sorry about your clutch; if it failed as a result of running zinc-laden Mobil 1, this fact's worth a warning to KLR (and other wet-clutch motorcycle) riders.

Again, appreciate the references.

Seems interesting that my Honda manual says it when the clutch technology is basically identical.

Regarding my clutch- I alluded that I couldn't directly attribute the cause. I did use Mobil 1 for many touring miles with medium-duty off-roading. I later switched when my clapped out car dictated cheaper, thicker oil.

[Mnrider2]

Is 5.10-17 and 3.00-21 the right tire size or should I get a 3.25-21 front.
thanks

[Nitro1970]

I get whichever oil is the cheapest when I get on the oil aisle at Walmart. Rotella T, Delo 400, Castrol GTX... I just change it at 2K miles and ride...

Originally Posted by Mnrider2

Is 5.10-17 and 3.00-21 the right tire size or should I get a 3.25-21 front.
thanks

Either front will work

[Mnrider2]

Originally Posted by Nitro1970

I get whichever oil is the cheapest when I get on the oil aisle at Walmart. Rotella T, Delo 400, Castrol GTX... I just change it at 2K miles and ride...




Either front will work

Yes but I still like the fries from Burger King better than the ones from McDonands :)

[Aprilia]

Originally Posted by GreatWhiteNorth

These articles regarding oil life mention how quickly oil breaks down changing viscosity. A lower viscosity wouldn't provide as much protection to delicate plain bearing surfaces, right? Am thinking this may factor in to galling often found in the cam bearing caps? I sure notice how much thinner my oil is when I drain it after 2000 miles as compared to when new. I've been using nothing but Castrol GTX 10w40 mc oil, but have started recently adding Shell Rotella T synthetic (HD diesel oil) when topping it up to restore viscosity as the oil wears. ...not as good as Mobil 1, but a pretty good oil IMO.

Lots of mis-info regarding viscosity...Here is a post I did over at another KLR forum. Hope that helps explain it better.

While at a HD function for females I was off with the guys outside and they were all talking bikes and oil topic came up. I kept quiet as long as I could but finally after hearing this one particular guy rant on and on about oil weight, labels and what to use in his HD during summer/winter as well as the whole synthetic vs dino I couldnt contain myself as he was completely wrong even on the most basic of all oil information. That being what does 10W-40 mean and what about oils that are rated SAE 30? Should you run 20W-50 in summer?

I quickly realized that not one person even knew what the W meant. That said I thought I'd post up what I explained to them. Turned into quite the conversation and quite a few Ah ha's from other riders there.

Many falsely believe the W means Weight....it doesn't. Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is and labeled by number(s). The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). The "W" designation means Winter. Again, the temp ratings are for oil temps not ambient temps.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 210 degF. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 210 degF etc. It does not mean a 50 performs better at higher temps it means its viscosity is rated at 50 at 210 degF. Big difference....

So take the 10W-40 example...Already explained the 40 but what about the 10W? Simple...it simply confirms the oil has viscosity rating of 10 at the SAE temp of 0 degF. If there is no W designate it simply means the oil has viscosity characteristics of 10 thru 40 and meets the 40 rating at 210 degF.

An oil rated at 30 and a similar oil rated at 50 will both begin to 'burn' at the same temps. Ester and Synthetics will withstand higher oil temps before they begin to break down (burn) but viscosity ratings (the numbers) simply measure just that at 210degF....viscosity.

Make sense?

As others stated you should purchase/use the oil as outlined in your owners manual. Different engines (bearings actually) require different viscosity. My Viper requires 0W even in our 115F summer heat.

[Nitro1970]

Originally Posted by Mnrider2

Yes but I still like the fries from Burger King better than the ones from McDonands :)

Yeah the ones they have now are pretty dang good... Years ago McDonald's fries where better than Burger King, Dairy Queen and their daughter Wendy's

[Tsotsie]

[QUOTE=GreatWhiteNorth;20105373
Am thinking this may factor in to galling often found in the cam bearing caps? [/QUOTE]


That, in every reported case, is the result of running the motor at too low an oil level and causing oil starvation 1st at the exhaust cam bearings (which are running on the AL bearings). The cam bearings, and exhaust bearings in particular, are the furtherest from the oil pump and 1st to go. The KLR oil pressure is only in the 11-20psi range once the motor is warmed up.


MC specifc motor oils are richer in zinc, (as is Rotella - basically designed for heavy, high compression diesel motors) which has good wear resistant properties. Zinc content in oil has been reduced in most oils as it is considered a heavy metal polutant (one of the 6 'sisters') by the EPA.


Engine manufacturer specified oil types and viscosities are related to their designs, tolerances, types of bearings, metalurgy and operating range. Respect their design knowledge and recomendations.

[jules083]

Originally Posted by jonyfi

I just got the bike back together and took it out for a ride. It's backfiring on deceleration

Can I turn the pilot mixture screw one way or the other to cease this symptom?

I put the new mixture screw in and adjusted it as the kawi repair manual spec'd
Everything with the carb is stock, air box stock, aftermarket pipe...

I have a big gun exhaust on my 05, it pops a bit. I've gone from too lean (po) to too rich, and might even have been right at some point. I'm not exactly a klr expert, or jetting expert, but I think its the nature of the beast.


Does anyone else's klr get this weird 'speed wobble' thing on the highway? At around 75 indicated my bike starts getting this lazy wobble back and forth. I played with rear preload and it didn't seem to change anything. I typically stay below 70 anyways, so its not a major issue, but that will probably change next summer when I use the bike more for longer rides. Running kenda big blocks, front at 95% rear at about 60% ish. Both were new 700 miles ago.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

[MotoBoss]

Originally Posted by jules083

Does anyone else's klr get this weird 'speed wobble' thing on the highway?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

NO.

Many factors can contribute to front end "wobble";

Possible causes.........
Low tire pressure
Unbalanced tire
Warped brake rotor
Bad wheel bearings
Mismatched front and rear tire treads designs
Bad or mis-adjusted neck bearings
Uneven weight distribution / front to rear

or possible other causes. Start simple, like readjust weight, re-balance your tires, check neck bearings and so on........

[mxboy96]

No offense to anyone out there who spends time studying engine oils or is an actual technician, but don't you think it'd be better to just use what the owners manual tells you to, being the people who actually 'built' the machine probably know what's best for it? Think about it;) The japanese aren't as dumb as they used to be(ex. WWII). Plus it'd save a whole bunch of time for riding than unneeded arguements proving people wrong.

[GreatWhiteNorth]

Originally Posted by mxboy96

No offense to anyone out there who spends time studying engine oils or is an actual technician, but don't you think it'd be better to just use what the owners manual tells you to, being the people who actually 'built' the machine probably know what's best for it? Think about it;) The japanese aren't as dumb as they used to be(ex. WWII). Plus it'd save a whole bunch of time for riding than unneeded arguements proving people wrong.

Agree to a point. My takeaway from these various oil related articles I've read is that most (pretty well all?) of the name brand oils are pretty decent quality nowadays... and certainly much better than 20+ years ago. This business tho of mineral based oils (automotive or motorcycle) showing significant degradation in as little as 800 miles really surprised me. These scientific studies do seem to confirm that full synthetics degrade much slower, holding up much better under severe use. I would rather know than not know (about the truth in motor oil quality/performance), particularly given the claims of some manufacturers, and the huge price difference between some oils. Check out the price of a new KLR head - sure makes me very reluctant to attempt to save a few pennies extending an oil change interval! I don't think that anyone here is really suggesting deviating away from OEM viscosity recommendations or oil change intervals.

[Rode2Nowhere]

I once bought an ST1100 from a guy who owned another ST1100. He had 317,000 miles on his with no... zero ... motor work. He said people come to him all the time asking what oil he uses. "You must have THE ANSWER!"

"10W-40. Whatever's on sale."



Keep it changed, keep it topped off, ride it.

[jules083]

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

NO.

Many factors can contribute to front end "wobble";

Possible causes.........
Low tire pressure
Unbalanced tire
Warped brake rotor
Bad wheel bearings
Mismatched front and rear tire treads designs
Bad or mis-adjusted neck bearings
Uneven weight distribution / front to rear

or possible other causes. Start simple, like readjust weight, re-balance your tires, check neck bearings and so on........

Hmm....

I believe I'm in the 'none of the above' category. Tire pressure is good, tires were balanced when new by dealer, I don't believe the rotor is warped, wheel bearings seem good, tires matched, not sure about neck bearings but only 6,200 miles on bike, and there was almost no load last time I noticed it. Small backseat bag, under 2lbs.

I'm thinking maybe either the rifle windshield is too tall for it, or maybe the tires are just wearing funny. They look to be wearing normal, but the rear is squaring off way quicker than the front.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

[slowoldguy]

Speed wobble on on 05? Front fender is a sail. Change it. Spindly fork legs. Put a EM fork brace on. That is as good as it will get but it won't be perfect above 90. Ever. But yeah, a tall shield could add to it and bring the number down to 75. Take the shield off and ride it to top speed. If that doesn't fix it to your liking, do the above.

[slowoldguy]

Jules, look for signs of suspension leaks while you are diagnosing. Leaking rear could sure induce a wobble. One more thing, are you a "heavier than normal" fella? I weigh 250 and the Eagle Mike raising links helped me a bunch.