Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Joe Watson]

Originally Posted by sweetwater

I like Mr. Watson's work advice: more beer equals better wrenching results! Every time I take on a new task, I slow way down, follow the guides, and ponder dilemmas with a cold one

HERE HERE!! CHEERS!!!

[thumpididump]

Took advantage of the nice weather yesterday to get out for one last ride of the season (again). The start and the end of the day were both a little chilly, but it was nice for a couple of hours at mid-day.

I managed to tweak the right side hand guard during a little slide on some grassy two track. The ground was frozen and the grass was pretty slick. Lucky for me, I was wearing my Alpinestars Bionic Shorts ...

[northerndancer]

love those famous words "no I'm alright!". I almost believe you. Where are you? Doesn't look anything like Edmonton that's for sure. My jealousy is overwhelming my sense of compassion. Sorry.

[thumpididump]

No, really, I was alright.... Fortunately, I was wearing my Alpinestars Bionic Shorts, which took the brunt of the impact. My hip is a little bit sore today, but only 3/10 on the pain scale.

I'm in Ottawa and we've had some pretty nice weather for this late in the year. No snow yet, but I'm sure it won't be long!

[leftystrat62]

Originally Posted by sieg

Both procedures are simple and straight forward even a caveman could do it.
Go for it.

Did you replace all those parts they list as "New"--seals & gaskets, in they service manual when you changed your fork oil. Do you need that special wrench they show you need to take apart the head bearing?

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by leftystrat62

Did you replace all those parts they list as "New"--seals & gaskets, in they service manual when you changed your fork oil. Do you need that special wrench they show you need to take apart the head bearing?

It's normally easier if you have the tools, but you can usually improvise. It's part of the learning experience

Same thing with the seals and gaskets. Lots of times, if you have a spare gasket you'll wind up not needing it. It's when you don't have the gasket that you wind up tearing the old one and get stuck. I'm guessing you're talking about the head bearing race that is pressed into the head tube? Those can be really hard to get out, and I've often left them in if they're in good condition. To reinstall you've almost got to have a hydraulic press...

[sieg]

Originally Posted by leftystrat62

Did you replace all those parts they list as "New"--seals & gaskets, in they service manual when you changed your fork oil. Do you need that special wrench they show you need to take apart the head bearing?

I don't replace any seals on an "oil change". An adjustable spanner wrench should work on the steering head nut. (Or a channel locks or punch and hammer are some other crude tool.)

[Kjharn]

Originally Posted by sieg

I don't replace any seals on an "oil change". An adjustable spanner wrench should work on the steering head nut. (Or a channel locks or punch and hammer are some other crude tool.)

Or just go to your local hardware store and buy a proper sized socket. I think it's 36mm off the top of my head, but I tear too many bikes down to be positive.

[YZEtc]

Originally Posted by leftystrat62

Did you replace all those parts they list as "New"--seals & gaskets, in they service manual when you changed your fork oil. Do you need that special wrench they show you need to take apart the head bearing?

1) For changing fork oil, the fork seals don't have to be replaced since you won't be separating the inner and outer fork tubes.

2) I don't bother changing the fork cap o-rings unless (never seen one on my bikes) I were to discover it's damaged.

3) I DO change the copper washer (called a gasket on the parts catalogue/microfiche) at the bottom of the fork IF the base valve at the bottom of the fork were coming out.
However, for just an oil change, you will be leaving that alone (see No. 1 above).

4) You can make do without a proper spanner for the slotted nut on the steering head (although you run a risk of gnarling-up the slotted nut by using pliers or a hammer and screwdriver), but I feel you'll be making it harder to get a good feel for applying proper tension on the steering bearings.
I've tried it both ways, and since proper tension is easily reached with just your wrist, you get a much better feel for what you're doing with a spanner wrench.

If you have had your front fork modified/revalved and you want to keep the same feel from it, I'd find out from the guy that did the work (hopefully he sent you a spec. sheet detailing this) what fork oil he used and what oil level he set it at.

[sieg]

Originally Posted by Kjharn

Or just go to your local hardware store and buy a proper sized socket. I think it's 36mm off the top of my head, but I tear too many bikes down to be positive.

Really, you can get a socket to use in place of the special tool for the spanner nut at a local hardware store? Pretty well stocked store then. I've always had to mill my spanner sockets out from a standard socket. Never knew they were so readily available.

[ba_]

In the manual I see mentions of "Silicone grease" and "Lithium-soap-based grease". What are you using here?

[Ronin ADV]

Originally Posted by ba_

In the manual I see mentions of "Silicone grease" and "Lithium-soap-based grease". What are you using here?

Check out the Yamalube webpage. If I remember, I'll take a picture later of the recommended "Lithium soap based grease" when I get back home.

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by ba_

In the manual I see mentions of "Silicone grease" and "Lithium-soap-based grease". What are you using here?

Lithium-soap based grease is the standard kind of "waterproof" bearing grease. Used to use the blue Bel-Ray, now I use the red Yama-lube stuff. Seems to hold up a little better.

Where is silicone grease called for? I have some that is also called di-electric grease, I use it in spark plug caps and around electrical connections that tend to get dirty/wet. Helps seal out moisture and prevent corrosion, and won't arc.

[ba_]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

Where is silicone grease called for? I have some that is also called di-electric grease, I use it in spark plug caps and around electrical connections that tend to get dirty/wet. Helps seal out moisture and prevent corrosion, and won't arc.

Front brake level pivot

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by ba_

Front brake lever pivot

I like tri-flow for locations like that. Very thin, dirt doesn't stick to it, but it has lubricants--better than wd-40.