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Old 04-27-2012, 08:10 AM   #61
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Most likely since it is Plug and Play. ...and many are not comfortable with messing with the electrics and having all the proper materials/tools to do the job.

Secondly, when VR's go bad (without an appt.), quickest way and most sure to get back on the road is to replace with an OEM.


Your idea(s) are great... perhaps if someone could put a "How To" or a Kit together it would be easier to entertain.
I don't have a 950/990 at the moment, but if one of the three in our family fails I'll do the upgrade for sure.

The wiring is everything but complicated, 3 wires go to the stator and 2 to the battery.

The only tools you need are a pair of side cutters and a crimping tool for open terminals.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:23 AM   #62
AdvGa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
...

The wiring is everything but complicated, 3 wires go to the stator and 2 to the battery.

The only tools you need are a pair of side cutters and a crimping tool for open terminals.
Totally understand.

Perhaps you could put a Side by Side Pictorial for each process for OEM to the New Setup for the 950/990... it would be easier to take on the Not Too Hard Challenge.

I don't need one now, but am considering buying one of these kits for later, if and when it is necessary.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:27 AM   #63
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Totally understand.

Perhaps you could put a Side by Side Pictorial for each process for OEM to the New Setup for the 950/990... it would be easier to take on the Not Too Hard Challenge.

I don't need one now, but am considering buying one of these kits for later, if and when it is necessary.
I am not the one selling those VRs...

If you want to solve the problem you'll have to do some work and research yourself. Unless you want to pay me to figure it out and spoon feed you with a pictorial...
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #64
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoFlow View Post
Mine has been located here for awhile. I don't know if it's a better location but it shouldn't be any worse. Yeah, what were they thinking!

To be honest with you, I think it is worse!
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:50 PM   #65
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Why are there so many people replacing the failing stock R/R with another stock one?

Uller mentioned the solution last year (I gave him the idea ), the Shindengen MOSFET R/Rs are a very popular upgrade on many bikes that have problems with R/Rs...

Costs less than stock and is a better design, in OEM quality.
I've been trying to tell people about the MOSFET units ever since you told me about them. (each time I have given you credit and you find the one time I didn't.... Thanks again for the heads up back then. It totally solved my running issues on the 690. Don't know if I would have found the problem without you Lukas. )

I did a ton of research on the Triumph forums (they seemed to have the biggest issues of all manuf.) and then bought/installed the unit on my 690.

As Lukas mentioned, it really is an easy install. If you can solder and shrink shrink wrap you will be good to go. I am going to put a MOSFET unit on my 950 soon and will take pics when I do and create a little "how to".

The option of a premade unit from Ricks makes it even easier however, I won't be going down that route due to the fact that his kit still uses the brown OEM Stator connector and if I am going to put one on one of my bikes I am going to upgrade to a sealed style connector.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:06 PM   #66
LukasM
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It's all good mate, it's not like I was the one that came up with the idea, I just read about it on Aprilia and Triumph forums myself. But I am very glad that it helped you sort out your bike.

I am sure that there will be many people with LC8 bikes glad to follow in your tracks once you have paved the way.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:49 AM   #67
nattyMo
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I replaced my stock VR with a MOSFET unit from Rick's Motorsport Electrics. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Relocated to the side of the airbox as pictured below. I held the VR up to the side of the Airbox drilled two small holes and attached with self tapping screws. Replaced the Rick's/stock Stator/VR connector with a sealed connector from Eastern Beaver. Used the Delphi MeriPack 280 for 10-12 AWG.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...ripack280.html

Fingers crossed this will be the last time I need to replace a failed VR.

BTW, the install was easy. Took about twice as long as swapping the stock VR, mostly due to working out how to mount it to the airbox (took the lid off to be sure I wasn't drilling a hole into a carb) and replace the stock connector.

Installed:





Quote:
Originally Posted by ex1 View Post
i had the same problem on my Ukrainian Tour, battery was singing,
I think problem was about SE construcion, so, my new VR (from 950 ADV), I instaled, on the lest side of airbox... that is good place for this.


nattyMo screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 06:06 AM
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:00 AM   #68
Failo
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I'm installing my Rick's Motorsport VR on my SE this weekend and am concerned about the abandoned connector in the original wiring harness. The positive lead from the Rick's VR connects directly to the battery whereas the positive lead from the stock VR appears to split and go to the main fuse, the fuse block, and one of the relays.

I don't have a wiring diagram for an SE so I suppose I need to find one, but in the meantime do I just follow Rick's instructions and ignore the abandoned connector?

I mounted the new VR on the left side like most guys are doing and all the leads were the perfect length. I made a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum and used hardware store hose clamp things to mount it to the frame down-tubes. I'll post pics if anyone is interested.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:09 AM   #69
nattyMo
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Replied to your PM,

For everyone else, Yes, just follow the instructions and ignore the abandoned connector. Everything works fine.

NM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Failo View Post
I'm installing my Rick's Motorsport VR on my SE this weekend and am concerned about the abandoned connector in the original wiring harness. The positive lead from the Rick's VR connects directly to the battery whereas the positive lead from the stock VR appears to split and go to the main fuse, the fuse block, and one of the relays.

I don't have a wiring diagram for an SE so I suppose I need to find one, but in the meantime do I just follow Rick's instructions and ignore the abandoned connector?

I mounted the new VR on the left side like most guys are doing and all the leads were the perfect length. I made a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum and used hardware store hose clamp things to mount it to the frame down-tubes. I'll post pics if anyone is interested.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:46 PM   #70
sombreroisland
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Remounted my vr

Guys,

Just sharing after going through my 3rd vr in 2 years I've decided to move my vr. I made a small metal mount relocating the vr behind the headlight unit.

I've managed to extend the leads on the positive wire that connects to the fusebox.

I can't afford paying $150 every year for a busted vr so I figured best to relocate it completely since I ride everyday.

Anywhere around the battery or exhaust area just won't do. It's always too hot around that area. I'm hoping this relocation will be good.

Bing
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:07 AM   #71
sombreroisland
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Here's a photo


KTM Voltage Regulator Relocation by sombreroisland, on Flickr


KTM VR Install by sombreroisland, on Flickr

sombreroisland screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 06:29 AM
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:40 AM   #72
AdvGa
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Voltage Regulator_Furukawa/Mosfet_Dual Connector Install

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820432

Here is my FH020AA Mosfet Voltage Regulator Install with the Furukawa waterproof Connectors... but done with the OEM Connectors in Place.

This way if the Regulator ever goes out (they don't make appointments), I can use this Universal Mosfet Regulator or use the OEM type.

My Original Regulater w/18k miles is Fine and will keep as a spare.

Bought this kit from here:

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm




I did buy the following from NAPA:
1- #785604 - 12 GA Wire/Yellow - for Stator - 3 @ 13"
2-#785602 - 12 GA Wire/Red - for R/W wires to Starter Relay Connector - 2 @ 13"
3- #785505 - 14 GA Wire/Green - Ground - 2 @ 11"
4- #784474 - 10-12 GA Male Spade Connectors - for Stator/Relay Connections - 5 and cut off their plastic shoulders
5- #784437 - 18-20 GA Ring Terminal - For Ground

Tools - Soldering Iron, Cut/Crimp Tool, Dialectric Grease

Did not use included 30 AMP Breaker (Lower Left Corner) or 10 GA Red/Black Wire (36") since I did not wire directly to Battery Terminals.


OEM Voltage Regulator and Connectors.


New Shindengen Voltage Regulator All Wired up and Ready to Install.



Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Stator Connector & Wire Tied to keep in place with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Red/White Starter Relay Connector & with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Ring Terminal in place for the Ground Wire from Voltage Regulator.


Only problem was with the OEM Skidplate, it's ridge at the Bottom hit against the Yellow Stator wires from the bottom of the Regulator. So had to not use the current screw holes and wired it in place to get the higher clearance to close the skidplate.

It started up with Voltages at Idle at 14.3 - 14.4 Volts and it did NOT get Hot like the OEM regulator would.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #73
LAKEMONSTER
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Relocation kit

Hey guys, i have just finished experimenting with Machining a Heat Sink to surround REG/REC in its stock location. Got the Temp from 175 Degrees (shot with infra red gun to top of REG) down to 150. Not good enough, i have played with a couple different locations, and now have a Relocation Bracket, a few Rubber coated/Galvanized mounts, and can put this together, and send out in a Kit to anybody that is interested.

Shoot me a message PM wise, or use my business e-mail info@mvmotoventure.ca I will take a few Photos, and answer any questions you might have.

Latest Bracket/Relocation, i am getting a reading of 102 Degrees with the bike sitting there idling, five bars showing, fan kicked on, and drooling all over itself, all for the sake of Science, and a nice afternoon of Backcountry Riding.

I had a Higher Temperature when i was a Kid, so i would have to call this a success ???

Cheers, Mates. Mike.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:43 AM   #74
AlexE
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Hi guys, I am here replacing VR from a SUZUKI V-Strom 650 on my ADV 950 2004 since there no OEM replacement around here, the question is, this regulator has 3 B-W cables that gooes to the stator and 4 more( two Black-Red and 2 Blacks ones) cables which I dont rightly know how to distribute them, any ideas on how to procced?
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:00 PM   #75
AdvGa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post
Hi guys, I am here replacing VR from a SUZUKI V-Strom 650 on my ADV 950 2004 since there no OEM replacement around here, the question is, this regulator has 3 B-W cables that gooes to the stator and 4 more( two Black-Red and 2 Blacks ones) cables which I dont rightly know how to distribute them, any ideas on how to procced?
The links below can help you with this:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-...ator-help.html (From Here)

The inner 2 wires have red stripes and the outer 2 are plain black.... If I decide to use the old wires here, do I tie the 2 red stripes together as the positive battery lead and then tie the 2 black outer wires together as the negative lead?

http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintena...rectifier.html
Step 5 - This pic shows the wiring on the stock regulator. The stator wires are the black ones; the 2nd, 4th, and 6th wires. These are the ones that will be cut for installing spade ends in the new R/R's plug.
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