Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[Crash48]

Originally Posted by Santa

So, watch those chains guys.

We need a little PSA here, someone with a stock TA should post a photo of what correct chain tension looks like.
I cannot as my bike has the AT swingarm.

Installed new chain and sprockets with slack at 1.5 inches... photo after 600kms - bike on sidestand.

[Cruz]

Originally Posted by mas335

Cruz, Sorry, I failed to answer your question!

I see no reason why you need to drop the engine. Not being exactly familiar with the 87 engine differences I am guessing the cooling hose tubes mounted on the heads are in the same location. You will not be able to remove the rear valve cover without removing the water tube. The front valve cover can be removed without removing the front water tube but only if you pull the front coils, ( as best as I remember).

Thanks for the excellent info and pics Mas.

[Dr E]

One issue with gaskets is they will all tend to age and either go brittle or fail at some point in their life. There are many types of sealant out there that people like to use, but a common problem is both how much and what are their draw backs. With silicon based sealants excess seepage into the inner space (water pumps, oil pans) to mention a couple, you run the risk of having the excess ooze that is left inside your motor pulled through your engine clogging oil passages and other vital components.


photo uploader

This above image is from the oil filter of a Porsche Boxster we were working on and is a common issue when "more" is not better. The source was traced back to the oil pan gasket where the owner had used copious amounts of sealant due to worn oil pan bolts.

On all of the engines I work on be it cars or bikes, when there is a gasket that I want to be sure does not leak, yet is capable of easily being removed I use Aviation gasket sealer. Why? This is both gas and oil resistant, forms a leak proof barrier and stays pliable. When servicing is required, removing a component that you are not left with the scraping and peeling that tends to come with using other adhesives. Additionally, if you have metal on metal components, this sealant appropriate for those locations as well. The sealer has the consistency of a very heavy molasses and all you have to do is wet the surface with a small brush. A bottle this size has lasted me over a decade.



With all this said, opening up your oil filter is a good practice to see what lurks in the recesses of the filter material. Conditional changes may first be noticed by what you see your filter stopping.

picture sharing

[Clockwatcher]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

One of the common traits of this engine that seems to run throughout many threads and user sites and shared experiences is:

(a) Transalp engines will use some oil if run consistently over 5000 rpm for long periods of time.

(b) As the engine hours/mileage increases, this oil use also increases.

The engine seems to run well and consistently well into high hours and it's only at the very end of service life that oil consumption reaches unbearable levels.

This means, therefore, that one is well advised to check oil levels when on long trips with many miles at highway, motorway, freeway speeds.

- and -

One should check oil levels frequently in high hour/miles engines.....yes, even if you change the oil at frequent periods.

This is the truth......most guys will not admit that their motor uses oil.
I am personally a little suspicious of an older motor that does not use at least a little oil.
Most ADV'ers are pretty much anal about oil, and do change it often, this could be disguising an oil usage issue. How many measure the drained oil?
Oil usage might not be noticeable at 2500 mi. but could be destructive at 5000 miles ( might be on an extended trip to a foreign country and proper oil not available) .
It might be an interesting experiment to ride your bike for an extended oil change interval just to see what the usage might be , if any. I know mine uses oil between changes, I ride long distances often and I have over 76k miles on a 23 yo motor.............

[ravelv]

Seems still depends on design and each engine can have this "threshold"... On my car (x16xel engine) motor starts a bit consume oil if I keep it constantly over 3000rpm's.
On TA I mostly keep not more than 5000rpm's, oil is not consumed noticeably. And I change oil like on car- around 10 000km's or once per 2-3 years, which comes first. Old oil from engine is quite clean always. So, I don't see reason to change oil more frequent, except when most riding is done in city or heavy offroad. But I ride mostly in "light" mode around 90-100km/h on highways

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

I don't see anything in the design that looks odd. Have any of you guys figured out why this happens more than other motors or does it ?

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by ravelv

Seems still depends on design and each engine can have this "threshold"... On my car (x16xel engine) motor starts a bit consume oil if I keep it constantly over 3000rpm's.
On TA I mostly keep not more than 5000rpm's, oil is not consumed noticeably. And I change oil like on car- around 10 000km's or once per 2-3 years, which comes first. Old oil from engine is quite clean always. So, I don't see reason to change oil more frequent, except when most riding is done in city or heavy offroad. But I ride mostly in "light" mode around 90-100km/h on highways

Yes, I'm quessing that the TA motor is no worse than most at oil consumption. It is prudent to check on oil level and changes. Most of these 20 + yo motors are nearing the mid range of their wear/mileage limits at least. From my experience, that's better than most bikes. It's easy to forget that the typical KLR, KLX, WR, XR, etc that a lot of us are familar with, is pretty much done at 7 to 10k miles and very few make it much past without serious maintance. In the rare exception where a ring sticks/brakes or a valve stem seal fails while your on a long trip and you don't catch it in time, well, SHIT HAPPENS.

[mas335]

Sounds right to me. Did you disconnect and remove the side stand indicator light switch, I don't see it.

Originally Posted by Crash48

Installed new chain and sprockets with slack at 1.5 inches... photo after 600kms - bike on sidestand.

[mas335]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Yes, I'm quessing that the TA motor is no worse than most at oil consumption. It is prudent to check on oil level and changes. Most of these 20 + yo motors are nearing the mid range of their wear/mileage limits at least. From my experience, that's better than most bikes. It's easy to forget that the typical KLR, KLX, WR, XR, etc that a lot of us are familar with, is pretty much done at 7 to 10k miles and very few make it much past without serious maintance. In the rare exception where a ring sticks/brakes or a valve stem seal fails while your on a long trip and you don't catch it in time, well, SHIT HAPPENS.

I have never heard of a XR (650) or a NX650 being pretty much done at 7-10K miles unless neglect or abuse was involved. I have seen a few NX650's with 50K miles and still running fine. I thought KLR's were more reliable than that? There seems to be more than a few DR350's dead at 10K but they run the crap out of those little engines.

[dfc]

Originally Posted by mas335

I have never heard of a XR (650) or a NX650 being pretty much done at 7-10K miles unless neglect or abuse was involved. I have seen a few NX650's with 50K miles and still running fine. I thought KLR's were more reliable than that? There seems to be more than a few DR350's dead at 10K but they run the crap out of those little engines.

I know of a fellow on a local dual sport board who recently posted his KLR had just turned over 100K, so it aint unheard of.

YMMV

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by mas335

I have never heard of a XR (650) or a NX650 being pretty much done at 7-10K miles unless neglect or abuse was involved. I have seen a few NX650's with 50K miles and still running fine. I thought KLR's were more reliable than that? There seems to be more than a few DR350's dead at 10K but they run the crap out of those little engines.

We probably rode ours a little hard. Well, as hard as old guys can. After the Continental Divide Ride and the TAT + a few Mexico, NM/CO rides, the '99 KLX. '03KLR and '03 XR650R we were riding were gettin a little tired, where we felt we didn't trust them to go on another long trip and be reliable. All had 7K+ miles and everyone has moved on to a fresher/newer model. Sure, partly because of new bike fever, and paranoia, and the never ending search for the perfect bike. We're all too old and don't feel the need to push it. Well, we couldn't push it very far. Let's face it most riders don't have the knowlede, experience, or will to do maintance of any kind much less major repair on their bikes, cars or anything else. ...For those who want to use em till they can't go any farther, your choice. I don't take any chances with maintance and after seeing your work on here I don't think you do either. I realize that many get much higher mileage and the Honda is probably the best of the bunch for that. All bikes have their own little particular quirks/problems that might need attention and no one model is right for everyone. That's part of the fun.

[mas335]

**Let's face it most riders don't have the knowlede, experience, or will to do maintance of any kind much less major repair on their bikes, cars or anything else. **


I have to agree with you on this statement, craigslist is filled with these kind of butchered bikes. It seems to be a problem that has gotten noticeably worse in the last 5 years. We are watching a mechanically illiterate generation expand.

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by mas335

**Let's face it most riders don't have the knowlede, experience, or will to do maintance of any kind much less major repair on their bikes, cars or anything else. **


I have to agree with you on this statement, craigslist is filled with these kind of butchered bikes. It seems to be a problem that has gotten noticeably worse in the last 5 years. We are watching a mechanically illiterate generation expand.

Of course, your right. Most bikes are not near their end at 7K miles. I have been riding small displacement single cylinder dirt biased bikes, because I can handle them more comfortably. And I like to sell them with fairly low miles while they are still worth more. Then find a real low mileage used model from someone who didn't know what they wanted or what they were doing. The last 4 bikes I had ( KLX300, KLX450, KLR650, and DR350) all had less than 1K miles on them. Then I can do the mods I like and ride em till I get the best miles out of em and move on. It's worked good so far. One of the few advantages of living in a over populated place like Dallas/ Fort Worth (it wasn't so in 1944 when we moved here) , It's a target rich invironment, Just have to be fast on the Craigslist adds or they're gone. Don't think I've ever lost money on a bike, not counting taxes, insurance and regular maintance stuff. I almost never buy a bike I can't resell the next day and break even. The TA is the exception. I don't plan to ever sell this one. It's just too cool.

[Hotmamaandme]

Qoute

mas335
xendurist
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,466



Sounds right to me. Did you disconnect and remove the side stand indicator light switch, I don't see it. End Qoute


So is there a step by step of the side stand switch elimination? Ive been thinking that getting rid of my switch would be good for remote travel less to go wrong type thing

[Dr E]

Well, I finally completed reading all 13904 posts in this thread and I will tell you it was like being back in graduate school with the amount of information that is thrown out in this thread. My goal was to have it done by Thanksgiving but things came up and it took a tad bit longer. From all this reading, I have compiled 268 pages of detailed notes which tracks part numbers, modifications, enhancements, trouble spots and alternative solutions and will be used in my build.

I need to go through and organize all of my notes in to their sections and update my required parts list. I think what I will do is turn this into a PDF and post it on Google Docs so if anyone wants a copy of my crib notes drawn from almost 9 years of accumulated data here. Did I capture everything? Not by a long shot!

Reading this thread is like going on a search for gold as some of the more unique finds (such as websites, parts suppliers and even hard to locate part numbers) tended to be in the single line replies that are posted. You guys are sneaky!

Technical data is not always the only thing found here, I have learned a lot about many of you and I will tell you right now, I will by anyone here a beer if you are in my neck of the PNW! If giving was a way to become a millionaire...all of you are wealthy beyond comparison. There are also a few funnies that I have learned about many of the people in this thread and thought I would share:

Things I have learned:

Michael has a heart the size of Everest!

Ray knows 99.998 percent of the cumulative information on the TA

Mark has a secret manufacturing shop for body parts (the TA that is...)

Carlos has the crappiest weather of everyone on the forum and barely gets to ride yet he came up with one of the coolest garage built shock risers I have seen

Jeff has more toys they he should

Wait…Ray does knows everything

Dan has an Hawk conversion is fantastic

Menasco Pirate owns close to every bike built

Ray is like the Chuck Norris of knowledge for TA’s

Jim sells really cool parts, sadly I can’t use all of them

Santa brings presents more than one day a year… and is a good friend to have .

Thunder Dan has increased the TA riders by +2 which was great news!

Showkey is the expert here on Honda inventory and policies, I secretly think he is a Honda undercover engineer or something like that! (Stolen from Ray)

Favorite quotes I found:

FAVORITE RAY QUOTE:
....dang. I didn't know I could quote myself like that.
.....I outta be a democrat.

Second favorite:

Warped rotors are the poor-man's ABS

Favorite Jim Quote after a very long lesson on carberators from Ray:

Jim Rowley

AAAAAAHHHHHHHH Carb info overload. I need to go on a low carb diet.

[Lomax]

Originally Posted by old2wheeler

I went out to the garage and measured mine. I have the one Happy Trails sells and there is 5 &1/2 " between the stock luggage rack and the inside of the side rack on the muffler side. If you use happy trails panniers, their mounting device takes up 3/8 " of that, but you can have them leave the drilling of the bolt holes for the two that would possibly interfere with the muffler and possibly choose a location that would not interfere. The side racks are connected to each other by a "u" shaped rod that goes under the tail light. That bolts to the side rack about 5 & 1/2 " lower than the bottom of the stock luggage rack. I'm really happy with the rack & the panniers. Hope this helps, & let me know if you need other measurements.

Rod

Rod,

Thank you so very much and sorry for the really late reply. It looks like the muffler sticks out about 4 & 1/8 from the original tail rack. It does come up quite a bit in the rear and it might be hit or miss if the 5 & 1/2 down from the stock rack would fit. It sounds like it will be worth a try and if nothing else I break out the welder and customize some more.

I have no idea if you can see what I am talking about in these pictures but I will try.









DOH I really need to paint that rear rack don't I.


Thanks again.

Marc