the DR650 thread

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

Is pulling the enrichener (choke) going to help if the problem is that there's no fuel in the carb?

When the bike is misfiring there is still fuel in the carb - just not enough for smooth running. The enrichener will suck up enough fuel to stop the misfiring. If pulling the choke temporarily solves the problem then you are pointed in the right direction for finding the source of the problem.

[Mambo Dave]

Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?

[barko1]

Originally Posted by Garak

+1. I'm very happy with my Oxfords. The wiring can be delicate in spots so exercise caution when installing, but once they are on they work very well and seem pretty robust.

I usually just buy the cheaper wrap ons and add a relay which works fine for about $35 and sometimes new grips if I have to destroy the existing ones during removal. This time I had just gotten an ad from Aerostitch for Bikemaster heated grips for $59 which seemed decent so I ordered them. Then Aerostitch told me they were back ordered until January so I cancelled and found the same grips for $45 and $5 shipping from Koups Cycle shop. Started to install them on my Moto Guzzi last night. Just need to run one ground wire, one wire to a switch source, runs the wires from the battery to the front of the bike, use a few zip ties, and put the grips on. I just have to do the last part yet but everything is working.

[O'B]

Originally Posted by Jammin

Ha! Found the culprit: clogged fuel filter (paper core). Replaced it with a new spare (copper core) and sanDRina runs like a champ! Went for a 60 km test ride and no issues. I think that was it Continuing south tomorrow

Come on, motorcycle gods, what else you got? Let me have it.

I got jolted last night and told myself that 'give up' isn't in my dictionary. I beat my demons back in their cave and listened to the advice from ADV brethren who directed me to inspect this part.
If I don't make it to the next town tomorrow, I'll figure it out



Thanks!!!

Wierd! Glad it was something simple. If that ain't a real WTF momement I don't know what is!

[DR Steve]

Originally Posted by dogjaw

Galfer brake, stock size, definitely improved braking

Thanks for that.

Did you notice an improvement over the stock rotor while using the 19" fornt wheel or did you fit the Galfer when you fitted the 19" wheel ?

[Jammin]

@Multisurface Rider: I'm on it!
@JagLite: I love the DR Simple rules!
@ADV Grifter: I'm so glad it was fuel related, much easier to solve mechanical problems Yeah, my bad that I repositioned the fuel filter recently so that it was hidden from view. The rectifier and coil were donated by DR riders in South Africa. Hopefully now I'll get there and give them back
@Emmbeedee: (at myself, too)
@procycle: great tip, will remember that
@Randomroad: That's exactly what I yelled out and then a big smile grew on my face

[smilin jack]

Got my new springs installed on the 2006 DR this Thanksgiving weekend. NO photos taken. Only broke one 3/8" ratchet handle and a 3/8" extension. Probably needed a 1/2" drive socket set. That is on the shopping list.

8.3 kg/mm rear spring (black)
0.55 kg/mm fork springs

Took it for a 20 mile test ride in the rain and it's much better than stock OEM. Not nearly so much brake dive. The suspension feels slightly stiff, but me being used to the OEM springs, I have some learning to do. The stiffness will be good for hauling adventure camping equipment.

Dave

[LeDakaR!]

Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?

[basketcase]

Originally Posted by smilin jack

Got my new springs installed on the 2006 DR this Thanksgiving weekend. NO photos taken. Only broke one 3/8" ratchet handle and a 3/8" extension. Probably needed a 1/2" drive socket set. That is on the shopping list.

8.3 kg/mm rear spring (black)
0.55 kg/mm fork springs

Took it for a 20 mile test ride in the rain and it's much better than stock OEM. Not nearly so much brake dive. The suspension feels slightly stiff, but me being used to the OEM springs, I have some learning to do. The stiffness will be good for hauling adventure camping equipment.

Dave

Congrats! You'll really realize the value of the springs when you get off road and into something that would tax the stock bouncers.

And there's something about a fully loaded DR that just looks and feels right.



Yours truly -- northern New Mexico, July 2010.

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by LeDakaR!

Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?

You got a bad rebuild job.....a properly rebuilt shock should last for years and thousands of miles just like the stocker. Its hard to find good service anymore...........

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?

If you plan on retaining the stock rear rim I would recommend either a 2.15x19 or a 1.85x19 rim on the front.

[TrophyHunter]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?

I borrowed a set from a buddy. Stock rear, 19 front, no issues at all. GoodCat8 ran the combo all the time and never mentioned any problems. The 19 is a blast in the corners and it looks symetrical on the DR.

[opium89]

Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

Have a 1999 DR with a grenaded case. Found a replacement bottom end at a salvage yard. Seeing as I am not quite sure how many miles might be on the bottom end I purchased, my original plan was to swap *everything* from the original engine and move it over to the new case. Now that I have it apart, I am not so sure it's worth the bother to split the cases, and simply move everything else over to the replacement. Anything you folks can think of that I should look for in making this decision? I'd really hate to not do it, then find out there's a bad bearing or gear in the replacement bottom end. Anything above the obvious I should be looking for in making this determination? Keep in mind I was an auto mechanic for 11 years of my life, so I am not completely oblivious to signs of normal engine wear. So far, I can't fault the replacement in any way, at least visually, performing some cursory spins, and looking for play in the rod, bearings and output shafts.







Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?

[TRAVELGUY]

Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy

Originally Posted by LeDakaR!

Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?

[basketcase]

Originally Posted by opium89

Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

(Rick snipped some stuff...)


Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?

1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?

2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?