ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #71431
basketcase
lifelong reject fixer
 
basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Fading...
Oddometer: 1,409
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Got my new springs installed on the 2006 DR this Thanksgiving weekend. NO photos taken. Only broke one 3/8" ratchet handle and a 3/8" extension. Probably needed a 1/2" drive socket set. That is on the shopping list.

8.3 kg/mm rear spring (black)
0.55 kg/mm fork springs

Took it for a 20 mile test ride in the rain and it's much better than stock OEM. Not nearly so much brake dive. The suspension feels slightly stiff, but me being used to the OEM springs, I have some learning to do. The stiffness will be good for hauling adventure camping equipment.

Dave
Congrats! You'll really realize the value of the springs when you get off road and into something that would tax the stock bouncers.

And there's something about a fully loaded DR that just looks and feels right.



Yours truly -- northern New Mexico, July 2010.
__________________
'00 BMW R1100RT, Gone away: 5 previous BMW's, 3 Honda's, 2 Suzuki's
------------
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane." - Marcus Aurelius
basketcase is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 06:21 PM   #71432
Sierra Thumper
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?
You got a bad rebuild job.....a properly rebuilt shock should last for years and thousands of miles just like the stocker. Its hard to find good service anymore...........
__________________
"Don't get so concerned with the slab that you choose a turd for the dirt"- The Gospel as spoken by itrack
Sierra Thumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 06:45 PM   #71433
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?
If you plan on retaining the stock rear rim I would recommend either a 2.15x19 or a 1.85x19 rim on the front.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 07:12 PM   #71434
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?
I borrowed a set from a buddy. Stock rear, 19 front, no issues at all. GoodCat8 ran the combo all the time and never mentioned any problems. The 19 is a blast in the corners and it looks symetrical on the DR.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 09:24 PM   #71435
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Engine Swap

Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

Have a 1999 DR with a grenaded case. Found a replacement bottom end at a salvage yard. Seeing as I am not quite sure how many miles might be on the bottom end I purchased, my original plan was to swap *everything* from the original engine and move it over to the new case. Now that I have it apart, I am not so sure it's worth the bother to split the cases, and simply move everything else over to the replacement. Anything you folks can think of that I should look for in making this decision? I'd really hate to not do it, then find out there's a bad bearing or gear in the replacement bottom end. Anything above the obvious I should be looking for in making this determination? Keep in mind I was an auto mechanic for 11 years of my life, so I am not completely oblivious to signs of normal engine wear. So far, I can't fault the replacement in any way, at least visually, performing some cursory spins, and looking for play in the rod, bearings and output shafts.







Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 10:05 PM   #71436
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 615
Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 01:15 AM   #71437
basketcase
lifelong reject fixer
 
basketcase's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Fading...
Oddometer: 1,409
Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

(Rick snipped some stuff...)


Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?

2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?
__________________
'00 BMW R1100RT, Gone away: 5 previous BMW's, 3 Honda's, 2 Suzuki's
------------
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane." - Marcus Aurelius
basketcase is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 08:39 AM   #71438
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?
Replacement: P409-112575

Grenade: P409-108145

Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?
I suppose I could call Bike Bandit and find out, but they've been pretty spot on so far.


By chance, I found an ad on eBay from the exact salvage yard I purchased the bottom end from. They just so happen to have the started idler gear listed from an engine that matched the engine number as mine. The listing states: "The speedometer read 32199 miles before we parted this bike down"

Sometimes you get lucky I guess....at least now I know what I am dealing with! Even at 32k, do you think it's worth a complete tear-down? The busted case only had 6000 on it before the starter-induced implosion.
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.

opium89 screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 09:17 AM
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 09:19 AM   #71439
gjcarving
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Oddometer: 88
14t 41t Gearing. Pros and or Cons. And general Gearing..

Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
gjcarving is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 10:44 AM   #71440
ChromeSux
Plated and screwed
 
ChromeSux's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
Oddometer: 1,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I too like the 14t off road but the bike is buzzy if you have to ride the 4 lane for very long, if i have to ride 4 lane/ interstate for more than an hour or 2, then i put the 15t on, if you put the locking rear axle nut on and make a couple of reference marks on the rear axle cam for the chain adj and leave your counter sprocket cover off, the sprocket change goes pretty quick.

I have the Motion pro axle wrench/ tire spoon combo,i just grab it and the sprocket out of the tail bag, grab my T handle with 10mm socket and in a matter of moments its changed, a little bit of trouble but worth it.
ChromeSux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 12:19 PM   #71441
LeDakaR!
Gnarly Adventurer
 
LeDakaR!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA
Oddometer: 436
here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/


Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy
__________________
RIP Benjava, I finally did Alaska, thanks to you

www.route66moto.com
moto rental/sales and tours, location et vente moto, import-export
LeDakaR! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 12:51 PM   #71442
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 01:10 PM   #71443
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I've swapped 14T and 15T sprockets using the stock 42T rear many times. I only notice a slight advantage off road ... but it is there.
On road I could still maintain a good cruising speed with the 14T on, never felt it was over revving or buzzy at indicated 75 mph (actual 70 mph). With stock gearing I maintain indicated 80 mph, pretty smooth.

I rode cross country and for the off road sections (much of Nevada and Utah) I used the 14T front. All good.

There are lots of small things to do to smooth out your DR650 at highway speeds. Little things add up to effect vibes and eliminate a rough "feel" at high speed.

I found the Pro Taper Alu bars helped with vibes from stock. Also, retaining all the stock rubber shock mounting in bars and pegs. Noticeable difference.

Drive line is yet another. New rubber cush drive inserts really help as do fresh chain and sprockets. Check all three bearings while you're in there.
A worn sprocket can make you think your clutch basket is shot or ... bottom end bearings are gone. New sprockets and chain work wonders for this. Bad or worn Hub/Wheel bearings also tranmit a rough feel that may be hard to pin point.

And finally, many diss the heavy Corbin seat. But it's density means it damps out a lot of vibes at higher RPM's. Less rider fatigue.

I can change between a 14T and 15T on the side of the road in about 15 minutes max. NO CHAIN adjustment needed at all on my bike. I never touch the rear axle to do this. If you know how, its a quick swap from one sprocket to the other. (Loc- tite on retainer bolts please)
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 01:13 PM   #71444
LeDakaR!
Gnarly Adventurer
 
LeDakaR!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA
Oddometer: 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
they are super duper goodguys.
so email sent, will keep you posted.
i have a solo DV ride coming up in december, I need to have faith in this bike.
__________________
RIP Benjava, I finally did Alaska, thanks to you

www.route66moto.com
moto rental/sales and tours, location et vente moto, import-export
LeDakaR! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 06:03 PM   #71445
dogjaw
plays well alone
 
dogjaw's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,857
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
Thanks for that.

Did you notice an improvement over the stock rotor while using the 19" fornt wheel or did you fit the Galfer when you fitted the 19" wheel ?
Did the Galfer at the same time as the 19", so I don't have a valid opinion as to how it would have affected the 21", sorry...
__________________
By God, Woodrow; it's been one hell of a party.
dogjaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014