Helicoil or TimeCert for valve covers?

[Twilight Error]

Originally Posted by pcwirepro

The kit with tap, tool and 12 inserts is $40. Do I need the tool?

Its much easier to do the job with the tool than without.

[bwprice100]

IMHO helicoils work well when the bolt is left in place but can cause problems when the bolt has to be removed on a regular basis, so I would go for the TimeCert.

Brian

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by bwprice100

IMHO helicoils work well when the bolt is left in place but can cause problems when the bolt has to be removed on a regular basis, so I would go for the TimeCert.

Brian

Why? The inserts stay in place when removing the bolt. Remember, these are very low torque bolts.

No need for the much more expensive Timesers in this application.

As for the tool, yes, get the tool. Just go to Autozone, or similar, and pick it up. The kit can be gotten from HF, though I haven't used one yfrom them, they look the same.

Jim

[def]

Originally Posted by bwprice100

IMHO helicoils work well when the bolt is left in place but can cause problems when the bolt has to be removed on a regular basis, so I would go for the TimeCert.

Brian

JVB is right. Remember, the stock system uses a steel bolt shouldered with a stop, tightened to very low torque, threaded into buttery aluminum. Used properly, this works for the life of the bike.

When a repair is needed, a Helicoil (or similar) will easily work for life inasmuch as steel is now the material comprising the working female thread.

When installing my OHV covers, I use hand snug for these bolts, no more. Bottom the bolt to the shoulder and then give a small additional snug...no more! I use a screwdriver style handle with a square drive and a hex wrench.

Done this way, you'll not be asking which thread repair system to use.

[pcwirepro]

I got the M6x1 kit from Autozone. It came with 12 inserts and I used 2 per hole. Piss poor instructions but simple installation. I wasn't sure if the tang needed to be broken off if it bottomed out in the hole. I broke them off anyway. The second (stacked) insert was a little scetchy as I didn't know how tight to make it and it didn't seem to "bottom" on the previous insert. That said the left side is done and the cover bolts went in with confidence. For anyone considering this fix, go for it. Piece of cake with the supplied tool and tap. All you need to add is a 1/4" drill bit and a tap handle. 30 minutes for all four holes on the left side.

Thanks all for your input.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by pcwirepro

I got the M6x1 kit from Autozone. It came with 12 inserts and I used 2 per hole. Piss poor instructions but simple installation. I wasn't sure if the tang needed to be broken off if it bottomed out in the hole. I broke them off anyway. The second (stacked) insert was a little scetchy as I didn't know how tight to make it and it didn't seem to "bottom" on the previous insert. That said the left side is done and the cover bolts went in with confidence. For anyone considering this fix, go for it. Piece of cake with the supplied tool and tap. All you need to add is a 1/4" drill bit and a tap handle. 30 minutes for all four holes on the left side.

Thanks all for your input.

Personally, I never bothered to stack them. One is plenty in this application. Stop it at flush.

Jim

[pcwirepro]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Personally, I never bothered to stack them. One is plenty in this application. Stop it at flush.

Jim

I'm sure one would be enough. I just wanted to match the length of the bolt.

[billdonna]

The standard thread engagement is normally 1.5X the bolt diameter into tapped steel. A steel bolt into aluminum would be 2-2.5X the bolt diameter. So a 6mm bolt should have 12-15mm of engagement in this application. Even though the heli coil is steel, the parent metal is aluminum.

[Dan-M]

Been using Heli-coils for decades in my shop for all sorts of fasteners. Never an issue.

[pcwirepro]

Originally Posted by Dan-M

Been using Heli-coils for decades in my shop for all sorts of fasteners. Never an issue.

As I mentioned above, once i figured out the stacking technique they went in like butter. One hole got only one insert (because I destroyed one in the tool) but that bolt tightened down just as well as the others with two inserts per hole. It's nice to finally have a good seal on those things. Now if I can just get my oil filler to stop leaking.

[def]

Originally Posted by pcwirepro

Now if I can just get my oil filler to stop leaking.

More details please. A leaking oil filter is a rare occurrence unless the old ring gasket was left behind on the engine when the new filter was fitted. Or, the new ring gasket was not seated correctly on the new filter. Either that or the filter base was bent or distorted. I have never had a filter leak at the crimp however, it is a possibility.

I usually remove the ring seal from the new filter, insure that there is nothing adrift, refit the ring seal and install the filter.

Filter brand?

[mouthfulloflake]

DEF,

change your hearing aid battery

oil FILLER not filter.




mine leaked, I replaced the O rings, it still seeps a bit.

[pcwirepro]

Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake

DEF,

change your hearing aid battery

oil FILLER not filter.




mine leaked, I replaced the O rings, it still seeps a bit.

That's great. All due respect Mr. Def Sir.

That said, new orings, dry it off, dry it off again, pull the lower half, dry that off twice, etc. still seeps.

[def]

Damn meds are outta whack again.....can't even see straight...

I think I need to hide the keys to the cars and the GS....

[Dan-M]

Originally Posted by def

Damn meds are outta whack again.....can't even see straight...

I think I need to hide the keys to the cars and the GS....

Hide from yourself? Alzheimer's going on too?