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Old 11-29-2012, 02:49 AM   #46
Emile OP
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: on the move
Oddometer: 104

The crossing from Tarifa to Tanger was smooth, but the customs where a bit annoying. All the people there wanted money for doing nothing. And me being stupid I only carried a E 20,- note and no coins so there went my money.
And the whole process took about 2 hours!
On my way to look for a place to sleep in Tanger I got a bit annoyed by all the people and went to a bit overpriced Ibis for the night, it was already getting dark and I did not want to look for a better place anymore. I was tired!
The next morning I got up early to go to Fes.


On the way to Fes I took some small roads until I had to turn around because the road was washed away. I had to take a small road back north towards the highway in order to get to Fes. The views where amazing. I only had one problem my camera battery charger is broken so I could only make one picture .

My camera battery was still empty so only a few pics made in the first day of Fes. Went to have a look at one of the tanneries hidden in the center of the Medina.
The next day I managed to find a universal charger in the new town of Fes so more photo’s could be taken

Alessandro taking a picture of some new old looking building in Meknes.

Jesus, Alessandro and I on our way to the Medina of Meknes.

This is a door in the Medina of Meknes. If you are in Fes and sick of being stressed by all the hustlers take a daytrip to Meknes by train. it will take about an hour but really worth it.

While we where drinking our tea some skilled woodworkers worked in the background.

We were walking around Meknes when I spotted this mean off-road hybrid scooter.

The quiet streets of Meknes. NO Hustlers!

Woman cleaning the streets of Meknes.

It was already late when we came back from Meknes this photo is taken from the roof terras of the Hostel.

same view by day.

A few days later I went to Meknes again because I had seen a very nice vase I really liked to buy.
This time I went with Matt and Alex, and a special adventure was awaiting us there.

We were starving after finding my vase so we looked for a place to eat but no luck. Until we ran into a man I had met on my previous trip to Meknes. He invited us to his house to eat there, and not to forget it is not for free we had to pay for the food. Well no worries man we are hungry so we are in for it.
Arriving at the house we gave the man 40Dh to get some ingredients so his wife could start cooking.
While the man was away we were left alone in his house.
So Matt started to make a small documentary of the place.

Ok the photo is a bit blurry I have to admit but it is because there was no electricity at that moment. It took about an hour to get the lights working in the house. The man also claimed the sheepsmeat he had in the fridge was fresh we wondered how fresh when the electricity is not working ??

And there was light! It took forever for the food to be ready so we were starving!! and when the food was finally there, it was just enough the three of us.

When we finished we paid the man more then needed and started looking for a small shop to get some more food for our poorly filled stomachs.

It was time to leave Fes so I said goodbye to Yussef and the maid of Riad Versus. There I met Alex who will come with me on the back of the bike. Together we will head to the dessert.

Packing the bike, I think we reached the maximum capacity of the old XL 600 LM.

Two madmen on one bike heading for the dessert looking for camels (dromedaries).

The road behind us to Midelt trough the High Atlas.

And the same road in front of us a lot of km’s still to go.

Arriving at Midelt we checked in to our five star an-suite bedroom it’s always nice to sleep with your head in the bidet.

The hotel manager told me to use the bar downstairs as a garage for the bike, the owner said no problem just park there!

On our way to Midelt we lost Alex his sleepingbag that was tied to the back of the bike. This really sucked because we planned to camp in the dessert. The man in the picture tried to help us find a new second hand one but with no luck. The only thing he managed to do was let his friend sell Alex a silk cloth. Later when Alex and I where looking for some unions to open Alex his blocked nose, another guy wanted to sell us something. We were to tired to ignore or go away so we followed him for a while until we reached the same shop where we had bought the silk. And the owner now suddenly had a sleeping bag!!
What a lucky bastards we are!

On we went, still in the high Atlas Alex showing us you can also jump there.

And finally after a lot of km’s we rode out of the High Atlas towards the dessert.

The Gorges du Ziz a beautiful oases all along the river.

We arrived early in Hassi Labied at our hostel Auberge la Source.
There we heard that there is a music festival in Merzouga.
So we got on the bike and headed to Merzouga to catch some dessert tunes.

The following morning we enjoyed our breakfast with a view of the Erg Chebbi sand dunes.

Our goal was to climb that dune.

After one hour we where on the top of the big dune. In the distance lies Hassi Labied.

We made it!!!

It was windy and in the dessert that means a lot of dust and sand going everywhere.


Alex and I wanted to go camping in the dessert at least one night.
The day we decided to go we set off a bit to late and it was already dark when we arrived on a good spot to set the tent.
On the way there we went down 2 times luckily nobody got hurt.
Just when we had the tent up a sand storm came. This really sucked because the tent was not fixed to the ground yet. While Alex was holding the tent down I rolled the bike to the wind side and fixed the tent to it with all the ropes we had.
Together we worked hard to build a sort of dyke of sand and rocks so the wind could not go under the tent.
After an hour of hard work we secured the tent and we went to bed.

Alex we survived it!!
The rest of the day and evening we took time off to just chill, the sandstorm was a wild adventure.

Went up the big dune again to see the sunset behind Hassi Labied.
But this time I came prepared.

I think I don’t need to say anything here.

Alex looking at the stars.

The day we had planned a camel tour on dromedaries we had some time to wonder around so we walked a bit in the black dessert just outside of town.

Nothing just one lonely tree.

There we go into the dessert with each our own dromedaries.

And are you comfortable Alex?


Maybe you have all seen enough of the dessert.
Well I am still amazed by it.

Our camp after 1,5 hours of riding.

Looking at the constilation Orion.

My ride in the dessert Berta 48.

That morning there was a dromedaries on the handbrake on top of a dune near to our camp.

On the way back to the Hostel.
The next day we wanted to leave Hassi Labied to move towards the coast.

We were fully packed and ready to go, only the bike felt different, it did not have the power it used to have. This tells me two things the oil needs to be changed and the air filter is probably blocked because of the dessert dust.
When I tried to turn the heavy bike around I drove off the road to make the turn but when I tried to get back on the road the front wheel diged in some loose sand and I lost control of the bike. We crashed hard on the road luckily with low speed but still it sucked.
The deer antler and my lucky camel tooth where crushed the cockpit was bend back and a lot of oil spilled. The oil spilled made me worry about the engine. when I tried to start it a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust but it still worked! And both Alex and I had no real injuries.
We were about 15 km from Hassi Labied and we decided to split up and meet back at the hostel.
This meant leaving Alex in the dessert to hitch a ride back to town. As i drove away from him I realized that he had no water with him, which is bad in a dessert so I dropped a bottle for him by the roadside.

I drove to the gasstation first to get some oil and waited for Alex, he got another ride and a bit later we met at the Hostel.

Changing the oil and oil filter, clean the airfilter, bend the headlights straight and check the valves.
It took me all day at a slow pace to get the bike ready again. Meanwhile we also decided that it may be better if we would split up because it is just a lot safer. So the next morning Alex took the bus to Marakech and I drove the bike to Taliouine.

The night before we left we went to look at the stars one more time to find out that it was cloudy, so we did our own interpretation on stars.

Getting some shadow time on the way to Taliouine.
When I arrived there the hostel I stayed at was shit! the people were not nice at all and the price was way to high. for a crappy bed no breakfast and no hot water.
The next day I made the stretch to Tamraght where Fatimazahra, Erlend and Hafsa are living.
Here I will stay for a while.



See you all soon!
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:01 PM   #47
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Very nice report
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:55 AM   #48
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Originally Posted by Emile View Post
thanks tripletreat!

this week I did a lot, I put the oilcooler in place and fixed up a protector for the headlights and cooler. installed a new header that was supposed to fit but didn’t, so I put the grinder to work and made it fit made a new endpiece and mufler for it and meanwhile worked on the pannier frames.

some prep pics


I also have a blog where there are aditional pics and info check
Hi Emile,

Is it a XT 600 radiator?

Do you mind to post the pictures of the tubing of fittings to see how you did it?

Many thanks,

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Old 01-25-2013, 07:38 AM   #49
Emile OP
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XT cooler

hey Ed,

Here you go :)
sorry all tekst is in dutch but if you scroll trough you will find the stuff you need ;)
there are two bikes in that thread so don't get confused ;) both bikes use the same plumbing bypass for the cooler ;)

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Old 01-25-2013, 11:40 PM   #50
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Very nice RR Emile.
Waiting for more
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:04 AM   #51
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Originally Posted by Emile View Post
hey Ed,

Here you go :)
sorry all tekst is in dutch but if you scroll trough you will find the stuff you need ;)
there are two bikes in that thread so don't get confused ;) both bikes use the same plumbing bypass for the cooler ;)

Dank U wel Emileke!!!

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Old 01-26-2013, 12:30 AM   #52
Comrade Art
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Enjoying your trip. Keep posting
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:58 PM   #53
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Hi Emile,

Sorry to bother you again, but where did you find that foam to fabricate your air filter?

Waht kind of glue are you using to stick the thing together?

This is a great Idea...

Many thanks,

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Old 01-27-2013, 12:10 AM   #54
Emile OP
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No worries Ed,

The foam came from a local moped dealer who sels racing parts and also sheets of airfilter foam.
The glue I used is from the brand "BISON" and the type is soft plastic glue. I think other brands will sell similar stuf.

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Old 02-01-2013, 02:59 AM   #55
Emile OP
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The way back

Before I really went back to Holland I stayed a while in Tamraght. Here I surfed with my friends made a short trip with Isabel to Marrakesh. Celebrated Christmas and New Year and surfed even more.
At the moment I am in the south of Germany visiting Isabel just before we will travel to Saba . This small transition feels great it gives me the time to think about what I have seen on the way the past 6 months. And I have the time to do a update so all of you can see what I have been up to lately.
Some have already seen me in Holland others have not, no worries I will be there for a while and only go on shorter trips .

When I arrived in Tamraght it sometimes rained but always with a rainbow!

First thing I did there was buy a surfboard. I bought this 5.8″ fish and made a poser pic for fun.

Every day I walked to the beach I went past this little red shack.

When I was staying in Tamraght, I stayed with Erlend aka Omar his wife Fatimzahra and thier wonderful daughter Hafsa who I met three years before. I helped them out a bit with the decorations of the rooftop terrace bar here is the result

The terrace.

Just before Isabel arrived I met up again with Alex who was flying to Europe from Agadir.

Isabel arrived and what better to do than eat at Banana Beach.

We spot a donkey on the way back from Marrakesh.

And surfed until we were tired. I was sad that Isabel already had to leave after only one week.

The rear wheel had some hard times and some bad maintenance, both my fault. Now it was time to do the repairs.

Isabel brought a spoke set with her so I was able to replace the broken spokes. It turned out that out of the original 36 spokes only 19 spokes where holding it together.

On the way to work.

Erlend filling the R4′s gastank.

Putting the window frames in.

Erlend finishing exterior walls with white cement.

Welded the metal grill back in place.

Happy new year!!

Surfs up!

Riding back to the north of Morocco the bike felt like being in its natural habitat!
And I was feeling great because I was moving again.

Bye Bye Morocco.

First breakfast on the mainland.

After 2 days in Tarifa I drove to Sevilla to arrive there just in time to see the sun set.

I was determent use couchsurfing to get back to Holland.
And the first place where I stayed was at Quini’s
A butcher who has a small history museum on the top floor of his house.

Quini took me to a friend telling me his friend had a motorcycle museum it turned out to be a rather large collection of cool old bikes in a dark shed. In the collection: a load of Montessa’s, 3 Lambretta’s, Vespa with sidecare, a few Ducati’s, Moto guzzi’s and more others.

In Coimbra I was invited to stay at the Real Republika Prä Kys Tao.
A very very nice experience thanks guys!!

Coimbra is a beatiful city with amazing buildings.

In Porto the next city on my route I visited my friend Thomas who was living in the red house.
The red house has been rebuild by the owner Fernando. And I have to say it’s a beautiful house.

Thomas and Fernando in the kitchen.

view from the bathroom.

In the evening Thomas took me to see the city from the old bridge designed by Eifel.

And the bridge.

Thomas and I having the best ham sandwich ever with a sparkling white wine. Porto!!

After 3 days I had to leave Thomas. Porto is the new best EU city!

After a long ride on the bike I arrived in Santiago de Compostella where I stayed with Carlos.
He took me to a small bar in the city center, with good wine and delicious cheese and Iberico ham.
From Santiago I drove to Oviedo and from there to Bilbao. The journey from Santiago to Oviedo was the most unpleasant ride I ever had on a bike. 400 km with heavy rain and halfway a mountain pass with 5 cm snow on the road and snowing al the way. I was freezing and there was more to come.
I phoned with my mother the day after and told her about the conditions and a few minutes later she called back telling me my father is going to pick me up. I was not really in tune with this decision. But my father was right it would be stupid to drive back to Holland trough heavy rain and snow.
And 2 days after Bilbao I was back in Holland.
The very sad part is that I lost the pictures that I took from Oviedo until my arrival in Holland .

Back in Holland I bought a car for the things I want to do when I get back from Saba. Yes Saba, the small island next to St. Maarten in the Caribbean. My grandparents live there for a while and I will visit them for the next 6 weeks.

My new old Land Rover 110 build in 1983 with refitted 200 TDi

I still have to fix some parts but it’s in good overall condition.

thats it for now

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:35 AM   #56
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Veel Sucess Hiermee!
2013 Sertao
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:59 AM   #57
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Thank you very much for your wonderful report.

What gas mileage do you average? (Km/L or mpg)
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:50 AM   #58
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Bike status

How does your bike look today, it would be nice to check the status of your camshaft,piston,rockers and the play at your connecting rod...
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