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Old 11-27-2012, 10:34 AM   #4231
john_aero
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bmw parts supplier reccomending 15-50 semi oil

this seems bit odd to me.

what most using,manual think says 15-40 but i remember 10-40 was all was recomended for the older rotax???
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:50 AM   #4232
gumbellion
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Getting Seat made

I am getting a seat made for my xchallenge but need to know what one of the 2 I should sell. I have a xmoto low that i got this spring and the stock Xch seat. I know there is a lot more guys who would want the moto seat, sine its an upgrade in comfort, lower, and its basically brand new. But is there anything different between the 2 pans? For example is the moto pan a lower profile than the xch pan allowing it to be built lower, or is the pan the exact same?
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:03 AM   #4233
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbellion View Post
I am getting a seat made for my xchallenge but need to know what one of the 2 I should sell. I have a xmoto low that i got this spring and the stock Xch seat. I know there is a lot more guys who would want the moto seat, sine its an upgrade in comfort, lower, and its basically brand new. But is there anything different between the 2 pans? For example is the moto pan a lower profile than the xch pan allowing it to be built lower, or is the pan the exact same?
The seat pans are the same.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:39 AM   #4234
Superstar
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Question Hard Starting when Warm

2007 XMOTO with ~ 1500 miles. The last few times I have stopped the bike for gas, it has not wanted to start afterward. Cold starts are no problem at all as the bike starts on the first rotation.

I have searched the relevant threads as much as possible, and as best as I can make out, the consensus from the threads seems to be that the injector is sticking, possibly due to Ethanol in our fuel.

Is this still the case? Anything I can do to mitigate this?
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:17 PM   #4235
jonnyc21
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Question pressure issues in the tank...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superstar View Post
2007 XMOTO with ~ 1500 miles. The last few times I have stopped the bike for gas, it has not wanted to start afterward. Cold starts are no problem at all as the bike starts on the first rotation.

I have searched the relevant threads as much as possible, and as best as I can make out, the consensus from the threads seems to be that the injector is sticking, possibly due to Ethanol in our fuel.

Is this still the case? Anything I can do to mitigate this?
I had this issue and found that when I removed the gas cap and then put it back on the bike would start, it ended up being a pinched hose. Not sure if this helps but give it a shot and if it starts you have negative pressure in the tank. if it doesn't help maybe a stuck injector?
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:54 PM   #4236
john_aero
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i took my actuator out last night and was gunked up so cleanedit. have yet run it but i know lot were saying this item was sticking and causing hot start issues
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:57 PM   #4237
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went at bike last night,

panels off etc just get batt out and do valves. simple job??????

2 hours later still taking parts out. allen key head broke in the airbox mounts, the 2 bolts at rear airbox under seat. had try drill it out but as it broke in dome fashion dril slipped and took chuk out plastic. feck it and bike looks like just built yesterday and i get hands on it.

then lift airbox and find that the right hand side nipple for oil blow off was broken off so someone must have been bit rough when takign off to do valves.

so have drill and fit brass nipple at weekend.

mad such simple job was delayed but stupid things.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:30 AM   #4238
Superstar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyc21 View Post
I had this issue and found that when I removed the gas cap and then put it back on the bike would start, it ended up being a pinched hose. Not sure if this helps but give it a shot and if it starts you have negative pressure in the tank. if it doesn't help maybe a stuck injector?

Thanks.

This has occurred immediately after filling the tank, so I don't think pressure could be negated that quickly. I put an oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas so hopefully it serves to lubricate the injector.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:31 AM   #4239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero View Post
i took my actuator out last night and was gunked up so cleanedit. have yet run it but i know lot were saying this item was sticking and causing hot start issues
Is this hard to do? Got a link to instructions?

Thanks!
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:39 AM   #4240
john_aero
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anyone here know if 15-50oil is ok so?????
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:40 AM   #4241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superstar View Post
Is this hard to do? Got a link to instructions?

Thanks!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=13744679

easy just take right panel off andactuator is there behind panel
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:04 AM   #4242
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superstar View Post
Is this hard to do? Got a link to instructions?

Thanks!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=13744679

easy just take right panel off andactuator is there behind panel
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:54 AM   #4243
zoharl
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Engine Oil for X Challenge

Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero View Post
anyone here know if 15-50oil is ok so?????
Oil is equivalent to religious, too many answers to simple question.

Large gradients oils, letter W at the first number indicates the word Winter. Ie viscosity at low temperature. The second number indicates the viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. For example: SAE 10W40. When the engine is cold, this oil is the same viscosity level of SAE 10W when it is cold, but when the engine reaches operating temperature, viscosity will be the same as SAE 40 viscosity oil while at 100 degrees Celsius.
The main advantage of synthetic oils over mineral is long life and resistance to oil. Synthetic oils worn more slowly than mineral oils. In addition, synthetic oils are more resistant to high temperatures. Therefore, motorcycle racing, for example, working at full load, and in some areas come into contact with engine oil temperatures may reach very high values​​, use synthetic oils.

Basically if you use your bike in a warmer country, (like mine , Israel) and you ride in the summer, 15-50 will be probably a bit better, but in normal weather conditions , it is meaningless.
Also , you may want to "warm" the engine when start it, bit more before riding if you choose a 15-50 over 10-40.

Hope I manged to explain it as simple
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:07 AM   #4244
jack splash
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Same Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superstar View Post
2007 XMOTO with ~ 1500 miles. The last few times I have stopped the bike for gas, it has not wanted to start afterward. Cold starts are no problem at all as the bike starts on the first rotation.

I have searched the relevant threads as much as possible, and as best as I can make out, the consensus from the threads seems to be that the injector is sticking, possibly due to Ethanol in our fuel.

Is this still the case? Anything I can do to mitigate this?
Hey: I had the same issue, not all the time, maybe half the times I got gas the bike wouldn't start. I tried all sorts of tests and things mentioned here. Like resetting the thottle, checking the key switch and kick stand switch, to no avail. I'm a former service manager at a MC shop.


I changed the battery and the problem went away. I have appx 20,000 miles on the bike.


My 2 cents.

Jack
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:12 AM   #4245
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoharl View Post
Oil is equivalent to religious, too many answers to simple question.

Large gradients oils, letter W at the first number indicates the word Winter. Ie viscosity at low temperature. The second number indicates the viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. For example: SAE 10W40. When the engine is cold, this oil is the same viscosity level of SAE 10W when it is cold, but when the engine reaches operating temperature, viscosity will be the same as SAE 40 viscosity oil while at 100 degrees Celsius.
The main advantage of synthetic oils over mineral is long life and resistance to oil. Synthetic oils worn more slowly than mineral oils. In addition, synthetic oils are more resistant to high temperatures. Therefore, motorcycle racing, for example, working at full load, and in some areas come into contact with engine oil temperatures may reach very high values​​, use synthetic oils.

Basically if you use your bike in a warmer country, (like mine , Israel) and you ride in the summer, 15-50 will be probably a bit better, but in normal weather conditions , it is meaningless.
Also , you may want to "warm" the engine when start it, bit more before riding if you choose a 15-50 over 10-40.

Hope I manged to explain it as simple
well my old bmw was 10w40 but bmw changed recomendations to 15w40 and dealer just had 15w50

i will throw it in, better change more often than wrong oil. i will let have few mins warm up before ride away and chaneg more frequently.

15w50 wouldnt bother me just it winter and dam cold at moment. but few weeks time wont be an issue

as you said let it warm up bit longer before ride it
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