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Old 11-29-2012, 09:26 AM   #13741
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post

I tried this one but it did not work. Jesse swore that it should but the chain woudl rub the upper block. It was very close and I think that I had it adjusted properly (there were more than one set of holes that I could have mounted it with). I think that it was set up for the 43 tooth rear and I had the 41. I am sure that the chain would have rubbed itself free in a couple of rides and been fine. But this was the first thing I fixed on the bike, and I was reluctant to go that route. It was a high quality unit.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:46 AM   #13742
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Would the guard still fit with the 16t sprocket? Seems like it should. Case savers are cheap if you need to find a replacement due to drinding them down too much. You can get them from bike bandit new OEM for $3 or so.
Yup. Everything fit like normal. I'm not too worried about it. Maybe just lucky, but never had a problem in that area.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:03 PM   #13743
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Yup. Everything fit like normal. I'm not too worried about it. Maybe just lucky, but never had a problem in that area.
thanks.

I might consider this int he future if I every go on another tour with a lot of street riding. I have a 13,14,15 front and a 41,43 rear. I can run all combinations with the same chain. Have not messed with the 49 rear I jsut got.

Right now I am riding the 13/43 and it has quite a bit of grunt and I can still do 65mph (gps). Have no idea what my RPMs are since I ditched my tach/speedo. IT is high though. I don't cruise for any length of time at that speed. I have even reach the low 70s on a short highway jaunt.

From very non scientific experiamenting, each step in one front tooth or 2 rear teeth will change the RPMs about 400 +/-100 rpms. .
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:38 PM   #13744
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While we're on the topic of chains and sprockets, the mail came in today


15 front, 41 rear, 110 link 520 chain, valve adjustment tool, new clutch cable, and an emergency throttle cable set. Can't wait for my day off tomorrow so I can drink a few and put this back together...
I've been having withdrawls from not riding (shakes, nervousness, irritability, slack jaw) since my clutch cable snapped monday morning and took me for a ride.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:51 PM   #13745
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
thanks.

I might consider this int he future if I every go on another tour with a lot of street riding. I have a 13,14,15 front and a 41,43 rear. I can run all combinations with the same chain. Have not messed with the 49 rear I jsut got.

Right now I am riding the 13/43 and it has quite a bit of grunt and I can still do 65mph (gps). Have no idea what my RPMs are since I ditched my tach/speedo. IT is high though. I don't cruise for any length of time at that speed. I have even reach the low 70s on a short highway jaunt.

From very non scientific experiamenting, each step in one front tooth or 2 rear teeth will change the RPMs about 400 +/-100 rpms. .
The 400 +/- 100 RPMs sounds about right. On the last mountain jeep trail ride we did last Sept. I used 14/41. 1st gear had plenty in the dirt but had trouble keeping up with a new KLR and XR650R on the road. Probably 8K ft +. Don't know if the 15 would have pulled it but think I'll give it a try ( and carry the 14 ). The 15 felt about right on a 50/50 dirt road ride here ( 640 ft ) a couple weeks ago.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:53 PM   #13746
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Hi kids

Hello,

Now that I have my 09 dr650 with, IMS tank, Eibach rear spring, Parrabellum shield, cycleracks rack, custom fabbed side racks, new tires, many sprockets, sw motech center stand, corbin seat, TCI headlight and brake guards, Amp case savers,rejetted, Procycle lowering links, cut down and welded side stand, all in yellow and black and a few other tidbits I went and bought a 1995 dr350
today so I could do it ALL OVER AGAIN!!! 650 is too heavy!!!!!
What is wrong with me?????????????????????????
350 has Acerbis tank, Ricors front, new sprockets, chain, IMS pegs. Nice shape 5,000 miles.
Does anybody know if any of these parts will transfer to 350 other than maybe windshield, but it is to big?

Thanks,

Heirhead
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:49 AM   #13747
kobukan
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Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
. . . Does anybody know if any of these parts will transfer to 350 other than maybe windshield, but it is to big?
Pretty much nothing will fit other than the new front tire you have on the 650.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:23 PM   #13748
RuggedExposure
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Dammit... The rear sprocket I bought off ebay doesn't fit! The bolt pattern is too large for the rear wheel. Now I have to wait for the company to get in touch with me.

Also, I took off the front sprocket which I thought was stock... turns out to be a 15 tooth. Stock is 13 right?
I can't imagine the bottom end this bike would have with a 13 tooth.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:33 PM   #13749
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I think stock is 15.

I'm running 13 / 47 on my 250SE. The thing will nearly climb a tree.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:16 PM   #13750
ctjohnson
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sprocket and chain size

I'm getting conflicting info on some parts diagrams I am looking at online.

What is the stock sprocket and chain size for 1995 DR350s?

I'm also seeing lots of different manufacturers with a big spread in prices. What brand would you recommend and is there a place to buy the 2 sprockets and chain as a set online? The only set I am finding is on procycle.us and is $99 dollars. Is that a good deal for JT steel spockets and chain(the site doesn't say the chain brand)?
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #13751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
I'm getting conflicting info on some parts diagrams I am looking at online.

What is the stock sprocket and chain size for 1995 DR350s?

I'm also seeing lots of different manufacturers with a big spread in prices. What brand would you recommend and is there a place to buy the 2 sprockets and chain as a set online? The only set I am finding is on procycle.us and is $99 dollars. Is that a good deal for JT steel spockets and chain(the site doesn't say the chain brand)?
My manual says "95 DR350S is (44/15) DID520VC5, 110 links...And the SES is (41/15) DID520VC5, 108 links.
I'm probably not the one to ask about brands. I don't do a lot of miles on the DR each year. I usually get what ever cheep steel sprockets I can find and a mid priced o-ring chain. Keep it adjusted and oiled enough not to rust and they last pretty good. I've seen a lot of talk lately about master links vs rivet. Been useing master links for 42 years and never had a problem, just put the clip on the right way. I think the last ones I got were from Rocky Mountain.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:56 PM   #13752
Stretch67
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I'm pretty much the same way with chains & sprockets. I order a lot of stuff from Bike Bandit from time to time, and just get whatever steel sprockets and o-ring chain they have listed for my application in their 'Aftermarket Parts' section. Most recently I think I wound up with SunStar sprockets and a Moose o-ring chain with master-link.

Nearly all of my riding (seriously, nearly 100%) is singletrack trails in 3rd gear or less, so a chain & sprocket set will last me a good long time. I hose the mud and sand off, and lube with chainsaw bar oil after every ride.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:07 PM   #13753
ctjohnson
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Thanks, gonna go with the 44 rear and 15 front with the 110 link chain.

Does anyone know the difference between a 95 dr350s and a 95 dr350se? I thought the e was for electric start, but mine has electric start and it's the s model.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:30 PM   #13754
ctjohnson
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Acerbis tank fuel line routing

Just got done installing my new Acerbis gas tank on the dr350. Picked it up this week for $209 with free shipping!

Thought I would post a few pictures of the fuel line routing in case someone is looking for it.

If you don't want to use the vinyl purple fuel line and plastic Y included with the tank you will need:
3 feet of 1/4 inch fuel line hose
1/4 inch brass T connection
6 hose clamps

Right side of the bike:

Be careful that the line doesn't touch the exhaust or cooling fins.




Left side of the bike:

The brass T is pointing down so that the choke operates normally.
I also put a small zip tie on the bracket above the choke to hold the line in place.
Good clearance around the cooling fins and exhaust.

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Old 12-01-2012, 09:38 PM   #13755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
Thanks, gonna go with the 44 rear and 15 front with the 110 link chain.

Does anyone know the difference between a 95 dr350s and a 95 dr350se? I thought the e was for electric start, but mine has electric start and it's the s model.
Again, My manual says... The "95DR350(S) is kick start dirt ( no extra lights etc ) model with TM33SS (pumper) carb and 44/15 final drive. "95DR350SE(S) (note "S" stands for "95 model year) has e-start, BST33 carb and 41/15 final drive. Confusing, but if you have turn signals, horn, high/low beam etc and e-start, diaphram carb, sounds like an SE(S/"95). Some bikes have been changed a lot. Motor swaps, stators, lights, frames. Sometimes it's hard to tell what you have.
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