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Old 11-29-2012, 06:01 AM   #71521
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Thats it! I saw you pull a few of these on the highway
Wow...it's a damn small world out there, isn't it?
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:53 AM   #71522
SkunkWizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
I'm currently searching for a rear luggage rack that also has some sort of "built-in" tool storage space under it. Up to this point I didn't find anything for sale or even custom built.

My idea is to have little tool boxes built under the sides of this rack, basically between the rack and the exhaust side panel, and similarly on the left side. I will have the rack fabricated by a local welder guy, but it's always better to see what others have done before designing your own rack/accessories, as you can improve the design or simply borrow neat ideas.
So if anyone has built such a thing, or knows such a product, a few pictures would be more than welcome.
i built the rack, pannier mounts, & tool tube,


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Old 11-29-2012, 09:02 AM   #71523
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Horsepower can be misleading. 2 engines making equal foot-lbs of torque will have different horsepowers if they are acheiving them at different RPM's. The engine making the same torque at the higher RPM will have a higher horsepower. Say a 125 makes 40 ft-lbs torque @ 10,000 rpm and a 650 makes 40 ft-lbs at 6500, the 125 will have more HP> I'd rather have my torque from a lower revving engine so it lasts longer



The old saying (If I remember it correctly) Power, light-weight, reliability; choose any two.
Always just two!

HP isn't really misleading...like I said; just math.

There has never been a 125cc two stroke bike that makes 40 ft-lbs of torque (that is why you have to twist their nuts to make them go!). A 125cc 2 stroke GP bike only made 55 hp at like 14K RPM which is only 20.6 ft lbs. I think KTM made the most HP in 125 dirt bikes= 37 HP @ 11K which is only 17ish ft-lbs. But, you are right in that the more rpm you have with a constant torque will always give more HP. That is why when building an engine a flat torque that doesn't fall off in higher rpm is more desirable.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:09 AM   #71524
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I just got my DR back from the local shop, they replaced the steering bearings. I try to go over and check nuts/bolts when they do work on my bike. The pinch nuts were super tight along with the axle bolt. I'm talking WAY tighter than spec. Steering feels a little stiff, but it could be from the new bearings? When up on the center stand, steering seems smooth. Any tips or tricks that might help me have some confidence that the bearings were installed correctly?
Also, I'm pretty much done with that shop.

Also, would anyone happen to know what size the nut is on top of the triple tree is?
Thanks
Do you mean the pinch bolts on the fork tubes ... or the 4 pinch bolts at the front axle plate? NEITHER should be over torqued.

The Axle pinch bolts WILL SNAP OFF if over torqued. Lots of examples here. The Axle itself uses a high torque value ... not sure what it is but it's very tight. But NOT the 4 little clamp nuts ... be careful with those.

The Fork tube Pinch bolts on Upper and Lower triple clamps also should NOT be super tight? Why? Over tightening will Squash the delicate Alu fork tubes ... and ruin them. Follow Suzuki's torque numbers.

The Top Nut is 1 1/4" ... forgot MM equivalent. (inch and a quarter)

To test if steering head bearing tension are properly adjusted ... raise front of bike UP until front tire is clear. Try to keep bike more or less level.
Steering should go full left to full right easily and freely with NO drag.
You can also grab front wheel and pull on it and try to feel for any slack.

If steering is dragging, then Top Nut must come off and the adjuster below that needs to be carefully adjusted. Make sure the order of washers and adjuster nuts are all in correct order. Don't mix them up. You could also raise steering stem UP and check your shop put in enough grease. Don't over grease or over pack these bearings.

Good luck!
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:53 PM   #71525
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Skunkwizard - nicely done and very functional. Knowing your talents, you probably did that in your sleep.

Torque values - from memory - Axle: 47 lb ft "Pinch" bolts: 7 lb ft - My wrench doesn't go that low so I got an INCH lb one and do 84 in lbs.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #71526
dljocky
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Thanks fr the reply Grifter,
yes, the axle pinch nuts, the four nuts down by the axle, they were super tight. A lot more than the 5 ft lbs I tighten them. I've read about these being snapped off! And the axle(47 ft lbs I believe) was so tight, I couldn't loosen it without stepping on it and bouncing. And I'm a big guy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Do you mean the pinch bolts on the fork tubes ... or the 4 pinch bolts at the front axle plate? NEITHER should be over torqued. Ill check the Fork Pinch bolts tonight.

The Axle pinch bolts WILL SNAP OFF if over torqued. Lots of examples here. The Axle itself uses a high torque value ... not sure what it is but it's very tight. But NOT the 4 little clamp nuts ... be careful with those. It was pretty late when I got home last night, and I was a bit frustrated with the mounting of the wheel.......so, I'll check the rest this evening. Thanks again for the input.

I'll also pick up the correct wrench/socket for the top nut.



The Fork tube Pinch bolts on Upper and Lower triple clamps also should NOT be super tight? Why? Over tightening will Squash the delicate Alu fork tubes ... and ruin them. Follow Suzuki's torque numbers.

The Top Nut is 1 1/4" ... forgot MM equivalent. (inch and a quarter)

To test if steering head bearing tension are properly adjusted ... raise front of bike UP until front tire is clear. Try to keep bike more or less level.
Steering should go full left to full right easily and freely with NO drag.
You can also grab front wheel and pull on it and try to feel for any slack.

If steering is dragging, then Top Nut must come off and the adjuster below that needs to be carefully adjusted. Make sure the order of washers and adjuster nuts are all in correct order. Don't mix them up. You could also raise steering stem UP and check your shop put in enough grease. Don't over grease or over pack these bearings.

Good luck!
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #71527
Dirtmonkey8
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That stinks, dljocky. Did you go to Redline again? From my memory the upper and lower triple pinch bolts have different torque settings. You should check and re-tighten those to proper spec too. Sorry to hear about your shop visit. Freaks me out too when someone has been wrenching on my bike. An uneasy feeling about a bike is stressful.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:46 PM   #71528
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
I'm currently searching for a rear luggage rack that also has some sort of "built-in" tool storage space under it. Up to this point I didn't find anything for sale or even custom built.

My idea is to have little tool boxes built under the sides of this rack, basically between the rack and the exhaust side panel, and similarly on the left side. I will have the rack fabricated by a local welder guy, but it's always better to see what others have done before designing your own rack/accessories, as you can improve the design or simply borrow neat ideas.
So if anyone has built such a thing, or knows such a product, a few pictures would be more than welcome.
go with the wide man rack and mount a tool tube on the underside of the rack.
i replaced my stock tool tube with a larger one.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:20 PM   #71529
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I just got my DR back from the local shop, they replaced the steering bearings. I try to go over and check nuts/bolts when they do work on my bike. The pinch nuts were super tight along with the axle bolt. I'm talking WAY tighter than spec. Steering feels a little stiff, but it could be from the new bearings? When up on the center stand, steering seems smooth. Any tips or tricks that might help me have some confidence that the bearings were installed correctly?
Also, I'm pretty much done with that shop.

Also, would anyone happen to know what size the nut is on top of the triple tree is?
Thanks
I remember doing it last year myself, just like Adv Grifter mentionned with getting that pinch nut adjsuted it should never be over tighten and how stiff ur steering can be is uppon rider's desire. What u should do if u have time is to drop ur front end where u can see both bearing and look inside the frame to see if they replace the base of bearings (rounded metal o-ring conic shape-or bearing sets) they suppose to go under both bearings (lower/upper). Some lazy mechanics tend to disregard replacing bearing sets which render the use of bearings meaningless. In this pix it's on the top right (sitting over da bearing). There is special press u can buy cheap from Harbor Freight to get them out.
I thing the top nut of 3tree is 32 or 34mm. Good luck.

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Old 11-29-2012, 04:34 PM   #71530
dljocky
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Dirtmonkey8,
No, I went to the other shop. Thanks for the information, I'm checking it all out tomorrow.

DR650SEDDY, I'm going to drop the front end like you suggested


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8 View Post
That stinks, dljocky. Did you go to Redline again? From my memory the upper and lower triple pinch bolts have different torque settings. You should check and re-tighten those to proper spec too. Sorry to hear about your shop visit. Freaks me out too when someone has been wrenching on my bike. An uneasy feeling about a bike is stressful.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:26 PM   #71531
eakins
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I use this tool tube and bracket. I bought it from him when he did a limited run last year. He's back at it. It works awesome.

http://www.weld86motoparts.com/Suzuki-DRZ.html
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #71532
sunthechip
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Black metal parts

Does anyone know how this is done? ----- The metal parts are all black.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:31 PM   #71533
TrophyHunter
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Tool tube: Looks like he uses the popular agri-supply tube. The clamp looks like a clean application. For the price at agri supply, I ordered 6 of 'em for my family's machines. Chop the mounts off as he mentions and hit the graphics with some brake cleaner and it wipes right off. I ordered an exhaust clamp to mount it with. The one linked looks like a cleaner set up from the photos.

http://www.agrisupply.com/manual-can...70/&sid=&eid=/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33226/overview/


Eakins - I saw your Utah motorcycle map for sale at the lodge in Zion Natl Park. Very nice product. Looks well researched and extremely useful. I'll be buying your complete set for some upcoming trip planning. I'll also look forward to your input in the planning on my 2014 ride.... http://www.cannonballproject.com/content/

Sun - my guess is a combo of rattle can engine paint, regular paint and possibly some powder coating?
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TrophyHunter screwed with this post 11-30-2012 at 08:51 AM
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:18 PM   #71534
Garak
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Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I've read about these being snapped off!
I had one of mine snapped at a shop. Incidentally, that was the last time I took my bike to a shop. I'm not the worlds greatest mechanic but when I work on my own bike, at least I know the job is being done with care and attention.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:02 AM   #71535
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Does anyone know how this is done? ----- The metal parts are all black.
There must be some sort of heat resistant paint for this. The people at Deus Ex Machina seem to do this a lot with their customs, you could contact them and ask. http://deuscustoms.com/
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