Drz400 Thread

[Tropic-Of-Canada]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

The acct probably hasn't failed, the cam chain is likely stretched.

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Alright, that's a reasonable guess too, so is there a service limit on the cam chain? There's more detail in my post 2 days back.

how do you remove and install a new cam chain? I understand the valve shimming process in theory, so is it a matter of dangling the chain down till its on the bottom gear, then looping it around the cams or do you have to tear down further?

I've never been in there myself, but I think I'll attempt it one of these weekends.... It's just getting too noisy! I'll try and post a vid of the metallic sound I hear....

[DualSportDad]

Its been a long time since I have replaced mine. You can check it by setting the motor at tdc and removing the bolt in the back of the acct and then remove the acct from the head. Inspect how far out the plunger is. If its all the way out the can chain is stretched.

If I recall when I replaced mi e I had to remove the clutch basket and the crank gear. You have to be very carefully when putting the clutch basket back on cause of the plastic oil pump gear. If the gears aren't lined up and you tighten everything up it'll damage the oil pump gear and starve the engine for oil. I remember the job east hard and it only took me an hour or so but I'm also a mechanic for a living.

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[HellSickle]

Originally Posted by waz

Howdy all;

I learned to ride in the dirt many moons ago, but have been riding street bikes exclusively for almost 40 years. Lately, I've got a hankering to get a dual sport to do some off-road exploring.

I've come across 2 prospects on CL: a 1999 DR350 w/ 1500 miles for $2500 (firm) and a 2001 DR-Z400E w/ 4500 miles for $2000.

I've gone to look at & ride the 350, but not the 400 yet. The 350 was in great shape and ran good, but since the 13 year-old original tires are still on the bike, I'd have to get a set of tires for it, and the valves have never been checked. I think the price is about $500 too high, but the owner won't budge.

I don't know what kind of shape the 400 is in, because I'm going to look at it the day after Thanksgiving, but the owner says it's excellent, and the water pump was replaced this past summer. It has Perrelli 70/30 street tires on it, but since I'm planning on doing some serious dirt riding, I would want to get some knobbies.

I thought the DR might be a better pick because it's air-cooled and lighter, but the DR-Z is 2 years newer and at least $500 cheaper (I'm hoping the owner will sell it for $1700, but I'll offer $1500 when I ride it Friday).

This being a 400 thread, I'm sure you're biased; but which one would you choose and why?.(I'm gonna put this on the DR350 thread and get their opinions too)

BTW, what's the difference between an E and an S model?

Go with the DR. 6 speed and better low end power. It will wheeze more on the street, but will get you there just fine.

[princess jamaica]

Originally Posted by Ogre_fl

Yup, thats one on a DR650 and a DR650 one attached to rack thats attached to a DRZ.

But I dont see one that direct bolts on to the DRZ.

princess jamaica, you have one that bolts up direct to the DRZ frame?

Mine is an E,and I haven't taken the time yet to fool with it.I believe it is set up for the sub frame bikes.

[ohgood]

Originally Posted by blaster11

I found this in the vendor section and it looks really well made....if you are in the market it may be worth a look.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=807903

can't tell from your pic...

is the water pump exposed as much as that oil line is ?

id rather punch the case with the shifter (bike dropped and stopped) than take a rock to the oil line or water pump at speed.

[blaster11]

Originally Posted by MotoBoss

Are you frigging kidding me! He wants $15 for a $5 tube and $30 for a bent/drilled piece of aluminum !!!!

$45 for both !!!!!

Believe it or not there are a lot of people who don't possess computer skills let alone the tools, capabilities, or desire to make something and would rather just buy it and spend their time doing something else. Don't confuse me with one of those.

[blaster11]

Originally Posted by ohgood

can't tell from your pic...

is the water pump exposed as much as that oil line is ?

id rather punch the case with the shifter (bike dropped and stopped) than take a rock to the oil line or water pump at speed.

Check the link.

[Viper210]

Originally Posted by blaster11

I found this in the vendor section and it looks really well made....if you are in the market it may be worth a look.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=807903

Looks like a big ass shovel. I went with a more conour skid plate by Hyde Racing.

[blaster11]

Originally Posted by Viper210

Looks like a big ass shovel. I went with a more conour skid plate by Hyde Racing.

After watching my wife tear off two skid plates from her lowered bike I will stick with shovel like. I am not a big fan of the plastic/carbon fiber items, or stuff which has racing in it as its "usually" not built with longevity in mind. Just my personal preference though and your results and experience may vary.

[955616846]

Those PE plates might surprise you.

[blaster11]

Originally Posted by 955616846

Those PE plates might surprise you.

They might. After seeing a guy I ride with rant about how great his carbon fiber cover was on his expansion chamber and then run it into a tree and put a huge dent in it without the cover looking like anything happened...I will just stick to tried and true. Please don't get me wrong I have looked at and contemplated the Hyde stuff before but I concluded that I would only use it for wear resistance or areas that have a strong backing.

[buls4evr]

Originally Posted by nrspence

Dang I'm so back and forth with buying a DRZ or WR.

And don't forget to look at the new Honda CRF250L...

[BygDaddee]

I was the same, at the end of the day it was the torque of the DRZ400E over WR250R and also I intended to do a bit more road commuting. I love being able to just sit back and pull the throttle for the power and not have to work the engine. The WR has power but you have to work the engine. I also loved the "tractor" ability of the DRZ, it's just like a low reving tractor up hills. I really wish I had the WR suspension though

[makazica]

Cheers all!

I sold my KTM and get to use my friends DRZ until I buy a bike.

Beeing a bit spoilt by the austrian I'm trying to set up the DRZ to my riding style so I've got a couple of questions for you and would appreciate some help....

We have put a FCR 39 and an open exhaust can, bike pulls much much better but it leaks gas on the overflow....I suppose the float height needs to be adjusted; do you know, from the top of the head what is the float height for the FCR39, I think I've read somewhere it's 9 mm.


Front brake.....is there something to do with stock front brake setup to get more feel or is it just up to the quality of the pads? Wouldn't like to go aftermarket cause it get's expensive quickly so I'm looking for a cheap fix/trick/something.

The lack of feel on the front brake could be up to the front suspension, I'm 97 kg with gear, stock forks, preload set at 1 groove from top, compression damping set at 4 clicks out from hardest setting.....tips/advice....would also like to stay stock.....

And the last issue; how much is it possible to rise the bars without stretching the cables too much? Also, what aftermarket bar would you recommend?

Thanks!

M.

[955616846]

Without actually seeing it, best guess is the float needle is stuffed.

There is nothing to be gained with after market pads. The Suzuki HH pads arguably offer the best all round performance (including feel) for the average rider.
Perhaps the one area where they lack is outright braking performance and the only real fix for that is a larger rotor. The best improvement that can be made to the brakes after ensuring that everything is in good shape (ie clean, greased wheel pistons and sliders and fresh well bled fluid) without spending large amounts of money is a braided line - especially so if the bike is more than a couple of years old.
Mine has a 320mm EBC rotor (+ larger 240mm rear with an SM caliper bracket), Suzuki pads, Venhill braided lines and the calipers are stripped and cleaned annually. They have power and feel, but it cost a little more than pocket change and I do need to be mindful of the rotor diameter on rough ground.

The bars can be raised 50-60mm before cable lengths become an issue.