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Old 10-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #541
Adios Pantalones
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Joined: May 2005
Location: San Diego, not Mex, but I can smell it from here.
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New FCR 41 on the 620

Thanks to all the good info here, some all the way back to 06 in a Gaspipe post,

I ditched the old edelbrock and coughed up for a new FCR 41.

Long story short... it's a new bike.

96, 620, kick only. 5000mi on it. It went from an good, old used bike that ran kinda crappy to the beast it should be.
I can stop shopping for the replacement bike!

Sudco set it up right and got it to me in 2 days. I am officially ready for desert season!
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:40 PM   #542
rz35027
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Location: Vancouver BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adios Pantalones View Post
Thanks to all the good info here, some all the way back to 06 in a Gaspipe post,

I ditched the old edelbrock and coughed up for a new FCR 41.

Long story short... it's a new bike.

96, 620, kick only. 5000mi on it. It went from an good, old used bike that ran kinda crappy to the beast it should be.
I can stop shopping for the replacement bike!

Sudco set it up right and got it to me in 2 days. I am officially ready for desert season!
Setup that undersprung suspension (if it's still stock) and all of a sudden it will transform again...
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:15 AM   #543
Adios Pantalones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rz35027 View Post
Setup that undersprung suspension (if it's still stock) and all of a sudden it will transform again...
Yeah, still stock, Marz/Ohlin. Suggestions?
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:18 AM   #544
Adios Pantalones
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Did a pretty good soil sampling last weekend, cracked the orig. front fender and brace. No OEM available.

Any ideas on good fittting aftermarket fender?
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:04 PM   #545
katumo_jtb
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OEM fenders from later year KTM's will fit. The bolt pattern is the same, you just need to make sure you get a fender with the "nubs" that hold the mask in place. I'm using a fender from an '04 625 on my '95.

John
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:25 PM   #546
Adios Pantalones
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Originally Posted by katumo_jtb View Post
OEM fenders from later year KTM's will fit. The bolt pattern is the same, you just need to make sure you get a fender with the "nubs" that hold the mask in place. I'm using a fender from an '04 625 on my '95.

John
Awesome, thank you.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #547
2wheelwilli
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Ok i need rxc help, mine is a 1995 rxc620 kick only, i need to find a battery where can i get one, my speedo stoped working so im useing my GPS till i find one... this bike is a blast.....
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:12 PM   #548
mik-ktm400rxc
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A new mystery for those diagnosticians out thar'

I have a mystery starting issue on a ktm rxc 400 96'.

I changed the water pump seals on my bike and set the valve lash gap to the specified .1 mm on my way out. I had the cylinder and head rebuilt last summer and decided the recently ground valves should be re-gapped cus' of em settlin' into the re-ground seats, theoretically. It seemed the valve-lash was too tight.

Now.... it won't start. It has spark. I didn't mess with the carb. IDK WTF.

I have tried tightening and loosening the valve lash to various degress without success. It won't even backfire. There is nothing at all happening when I kick it, no hesitation, no nothing.

I don't know what I coulda done while I was in there. Could I have messed with the valve timing/spark timing when putting the head back on? I had to move the wheel a bit to get the water pump back on... That's my guess. Could it be sparking on the wrong stroke or at the wrong time? How would I check it? Correct it?

Gracias amigos para su tiempo, everyone on here has been a huge help in the past and I look forward to your diagnosticating regarding this matter.
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:38 PM   #549
katumo_jtb
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The recent changes were timing gear and valve lash, so it's probably one of those, as you said.

Are you sure you adjusted the valves at TDC on the compression stroke? You can lock the engine at TDC with the crankshaft bolt on the underside of the case. Also do you have auto-decompression? Are you sure the auto-decomp was down when you measured the exhaust valves? Also, I thought the spec was .15mm, not .1mm. However, I'd guess you're further out of spec than that, if that's the problem, but you should definitely make sure.

The valve timing is the other possibility. If it were off, it would make valve adjustment confusing as the cam could be in the wrong place at TDC. Unfortunately the only way to tell is to take off the head cover and look. It's pretty easy to tell if it's off. Lock the engine at TDC with the crankshaft bolt and see if the dot on the timing wheel is even with the edge of the head.

Good luck!
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #550
mik-ktm400rxc
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Yep

That's what I was thinking. Would this also throw the timing for the spark off? So that it would be sparking during the stroke or some other innapropriate time?
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:02 PM   #551
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The timing gear being off wouldn't throw off spark timing as the spark happens relative to the crankshaft position, which hasn't changed; the sensor for spark timing is in the stator cover. But it would cause the valves to open and close at the wrong time relative to spark and compression, which would make it tough to start.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #552
mik-ktm400rxc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katumo_jtb View Post
Also do you have auto-decompression? Are you sure the auto-decomp was down when you measured the exhaust valves? Also, I thought the spec was .15mm, not .1mm.
Good luck!
I have the auto-decomp. I set the lash with-out messing with the decomp-cable, as the cable is attached to the valve adjustment cover, which was off to set the lash. I shouldn't need to do anything beyond removing the cable?

Also, I didn't mess with the timing gear (I think) I just pulled the cover off the head and replaced the water pump. But when I replaced the water pump I had to move the back-wheel, and therefor the timing gear, to re-install it. I thought I kept everything in the same orientation as before, but am uncertain if I did. So the deal with that is i am worried I turned the timing gear around once before reinstalling the valve/head cover, and if that could affect things....
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:15 AM   #553
katumo_jtb
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OK, I misunderstood, I thought you had the timing gear off. Since you didn't, there's no way the valve timing could be off. It doesn't matter if things move around with the valve cover off, the cam is locked in place with the timing gear and the cam followers just sit on top of the cam.

With auto-decomp, it's not only the cable that could lift the exhaust valves but the extra inertial lobe on the camshaft. I don't have auto-decomp so maybe someone else can comment, but it's possible your valves seemed too tight because the decomp lobe on the cam was opening them slightly at TDCC. I think you can hear a little "clack" when the auto-decomp lobe comes down after TDCC. Maybe try adjusting the exhaust valves again and wait for the "clack" -- if your exhaust valves look way too loose this time, that's your problem.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:41 PM   #554
mik-ktm400rxc
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I'm lost. I have adjusted the valves every way imaginable, too loose to too tight, and every way in between. I made sure the decomp wasn't putting pressure on the valves per katumo's suggestion. Alas, it never even sputters... Just turns and turns...
I moved some wires around to more convenient and hidden locations when putting her back together. I thought that could be the source of the problem. But she still has spark...
I didn't mess with the carb... And when I give it starting fluid she runs for a second or two then dies.
I can't think of where to start or what to check from here?!
Any suggestions from anyone on what to check? I messed with so much- wires, valves, water-pump- I have no idea where to start.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:05 AM   #555
katumo_jtb
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The fact that it runs on starting fluid suggests that you have compression and spark, but no fuel. How long has the bike been sitting? If it's been a couple months since it ran, the pilot jet could be clogged with dried up gas. That's happened a couple of times to me.

I've been able to blow out the carb with lots of choke and throttle while starting. If you start to smell gas, it's flooded and you'll need to try again later. Or you could pull the float bowl and spray carb cleaner through the jets.
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