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11-29-2012, 10:55 PM
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#1 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2007
Location: Back in NC
Oddometer: 1,314
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Skid plates and water in electrics
Working on setting up my 12 990R and have a question on potential elecrical problems and skid plate design. New to the 990s so excuse me if it's been covered.
Though I haven't read anything yet as to it being an issue...are there potential problems (and if so what are the solutions) to the wiring n such down front and to the rt side of the battery being more exposed with the aftermarket plates? I just put a BDCW plate on and while I'm sure it'll take a beating, leaves the wiring exposed vs the stocker. Is this an issue or is the stock wiring "hardened"/insulated enough to be fine? Add dielectric grease? Anyone drilled drain holes in the plates to help reduce water pooling in the plate? Any problem of drilling a hole to access the oil drain? Not too big a deal to drop the front, but if I don't have to... Thanks all
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"Not all those who wander are lost" J.R.R. Tolkien |
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11-30-2012, 02:26 AM
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#2 |
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Meshuganeh
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Reston, VA
Oddometer: 413
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I was thinking of drilling a hole for the oil plug on my Black Dog skid plat too.
Looks like this guy drilled a hole in his stock plate: ![]() Also, this plate comes with the hole already drilled.
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11-30-2012, 03:35 AM
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#3 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: London, England
Oddometer: 119
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I used the stock plate for the first 6 or 8 months through the first winter of ownership, I have a feeling this wast part of the cause of the starter relay, wiring and connectors furring up and rotting because of condensation build up. I live in England and its always damp and wet, I'm no scientist but after having the loom replaced I got to thinking that the stock plate keeps condensation inside more than an open plate that allows air to circulate after the engine is switched off and the damp to evaporate. I use a GIT bash plate now an just to be on the safe side I also now use ACF50 all year round and all the connectors look almost as good as new, a lot easier to apply that dielectric grease and no where near as messy, it's great stuff to use on the whole bike as it also neutralizes salt and corrosion. I don't often recommend products, but i'll put my name by this one as something worth buying for sure!
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm
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11-30-2012, 04:23 AM
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#4 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Ipswich, Queensland, Australia
Oddometer: 213
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Adding a hole in the bottom of a bash plate is a joke, if you drain the oil you would replace the oil filter so the plate has to come off, as long as the plate has a open back so the the water can't pool the first crack of the throttle would see any water run out. I have made many bash plates and alway left the bottoms of them solid so nothing can get forced up through the hole into the motor but have aways made the sides with holes in them to allow the air to get in and around the motor for extra cooling and to dry them out quicker.
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Reollc4 ![]() past bikes 04 950 Adventure 03 640 Adventure 99 XR400 electric start 95 DR350se |
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11-30-2012, 04:30 AM
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#5 |
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AWD please!!
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Mukwonago, WI
Oddometer: 3,864
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Who uses the OIL drain hole in skid plates???
If you are draining oil you "should" be changing the paper and cleaning side sump filter also. Why not just pull the extra 2 bolts (4 total bolts = 3 minutes) required the Remove the skid plate and do a proper job. Drain holes in skid plates always make me laugh.... Really, I'm suppose to fish the drain bolt out of this and oil should run out perfectly. Never does. Just makes a mess in the pan of the skid plate. Then that needs to be cleaned, or you start collecting dirt on the oil mess you created. I have never heard of a service shop doing an oil change with the skid plate installed, just to much of a pain.
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11-30-2012, 07:26 AM
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#6 |
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lost in hood river
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Hood River, Or.
Oddometer: 1,136
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You need to pull the plate to access the oil drain hose anyway
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2011 Dakar 30th Ann. 990 Never, ever, be in the wrong place at the wrong time findLadukebob |
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11-30-2012, 08:13 AM
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#7 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2007
Location: Back in NC
Oddometer: 1,314
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Okay, new bike so unfamiliar with the process at the moment but thanks for the info so far.
How about the wiring and keeping it good with the potential water access? Any other suggestions/tricks. I'm sure I'll learn more as I go and do but having some preventive info is always helpful. Thanks all
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"Not all those who wander are lost" J.R.R. Tolkien |
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11-30-2012, 08:45 AM
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#8 |
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Where fun goes to die....
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Glendora, Ca
Oddometer: 3,144
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Oil Change How Too
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11-30-2012, 11:04 PM
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#9 | |
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Semi-Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Rainville, Orygun, where moss is a road hazard.
Oddometer: 9,824
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Quote:
![]() Although I am not much for water crossings, I do ride in the rain, and do hit the occasional puddle. I have had no problems with water fouling the wiring.
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12-01-2012, 02:53 PM
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#10 |
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Rough Rider
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Sun Valley Idaho
Oddometer: 826
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I've swiss cheesed the hell out of my weld 86.
I like the air flow over the R/R. I've had no issues with the low mounted electrial but I go through all the electrical connectors on the bike and use Corrosion X , on everything. Google it up. Or use dielectric grease. Max
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12-02-2012, 01:07 PM
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#11 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: May 2006
Oddometer: 420
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I had all manner of problems from electrics that were submerged on the starter solenoid, its a design fault and not unique to the KTM (had to repair wiring on an xtz660 teneres reg/rec for the same reason)
I use a product called contralube a worthy preventative on all the electrical connectors as I work on the bike www.contralube.com I actually fitted spades into the solenoid and sealed with silicone before soldering the wires and sealing with a heatshrink that also epoxies the joint. not had any problems since and now have a fair degree of trust in the bike ![]()
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