How to lower a 690R 2010?

[Dr LC8]

Hi there,

My 690R 2010 it is too tall for me. I would like to make it the same hight of the standard model or the new R 2012. Is there any kit? I am aware of the option Kouba Link...however I would like to work directly on springs and shocks.

Thanks

Nic

[Navin]

Have you set the race sag yet?

[The Letter J]

I bet that someone with a standard model would trade straight across for your "R" height suspension parts (fork legs and shock) That would drop it 1". Try posting in the flea market here.

[TheMuffinMan]

Originally Posted by Dr LC8

Hi there,

My 690R 2010 it is too tall for me. I would like to make it the same hight of the standard model or the new R 2012. Is there any kit? I am aware of the option Kouba Link...however I would like to work directly on springs and shocks.

Thanks

Nic

The Kouba Link to drop the rear and then dropping the forks in the clamps by the same amount is going to be by far the cheapest, fastest, and easiest option.

If you have your heart set on changing the internals of either you can always contact James at SuperPlush Suspension. But that will probably be a bill on the order of hundreds of dollars.

[Mudguts]

The kouba link is not the best option if you will doing off road , as when it bottoms the rear wheel will hit the tank not the most ideal thing you want ,

Swap it out for E model with the shorter shaft lengths less chance of multiple hits on the tank

[Xmoto]

Originally Posted by Mudguts

The kouba link is not the best option if you will doing off road , as when it bottoms the rear wheel will hit the tank not the most ideal thing you want ,

Swap it out for E model with the shorter shaft lengths less chance of multiple hits on the tank

I had to remove my link because of that.

[Dr LC8]

Thanks guys.
I definitively want to avoid Kouba solution.

I was hoping to find an aftermarket solution within reasonable price.

I will get a quote from my dealer and see on KTM forum UK if anyone want to swap.

Ciao

Nic

[Pantah]

I used a Kouba on my 2012. The 1 inch solution doesn't bottom the tire on the tank (using the right size rear tire). The 1 5/8" solution might under certain conditions according to Kouba.

Why wouldn't you use a link? That's the way most rising rate motorcycles are lowered. Slide the forks up the same amount and you have your original steering geometry too. Then cut an inch off the side stand and you're lowered.

You can also take the suspension off and send it to a tuning shop that works with WP products. They can lower it internally. That is the way non-link KTM's are lowered or raised.

[StepOnIt]

I wanted my 08E to sit a bit higher so I posted here and someone with an R wanted it to be lower. easy.
Now the funny part was she was in Europe and I was in Toronto area (Canada). She was riding (and still is) around the world and was passing through the area on her trip. So we made plans and she showed up one day and we did the swap. So far so good on both bikes as far as I know and it didn't cost either of us. The only other problem was the kick stand being a bit high for her and the bike wanted to tip over kinda. She had a special foot made up so we could not just swap them.

[Dr LC8]

Originally Posted by StepOnIt

I wanted my 08E to sit a bit higher so I posted here and someone with an R wanted it to be lower. easy.
Now the funny part was she was in Europe and I was in Toronto area (Canada). She was riding (and still is) around the world and was passing through the area on her trip. So we made plans and she showed up one day and we did the swap. So far so good on both bikes as far as I know and it didn't cost either of us. The only other problem was the kick stand being a bit high for her and the bike wanted to tip over kinda. She had a special foot made up so we could not just swap them.

I will try something similar...localy!

Ciao

Nic

[Evil Invader]

I wanna trade!!!


But I live in Sweden.....

[Zuber]

I've done several projects to lower 690E's. I've installed a Kouba link, but I checked it out carefully first. If you only lightly bottom the shock it won't hit the tank, that's when it hits the rubber bumper, this is called a soft bottom by KTM. BUT, if you do what KTM calls a hard bottom, that's when the rubber compresses all the way, the tire will hit the tank.

So, if you are a little scrawny waif with no passenger and no gear, then the link may work ok. If you are a normal American and want to use a link, then you'll need to add a spacer on the shock shaft to prevent bottoming. I made up a 1/4" washer out of plastic, split it and snapped it over the shaft. You can't raise the forks enough to really match the link, so you'll get 'chopper flop' handling.

The real way to lower this is to install internal spacers in the shock and forks. It's only a little more money than a normal service, which you should do at least every other year. The typical cost is about $450 all included. The suspension service only is about $380.

[DG ADV]

Originally Posted by Dr LC8

Hi there,

My 690R 2010 it is too tall for me.

After riding with you all weekend Nic I think I know what you need to do.

Just get some cuban heels and wear a heavy backpack.

That and stay away from 60o hill climbs covered in mud, loose stones and leaves !

Looking forward to the Desert mate !

[Pantah]

You are selling, not offering advice. I ride with gear and I weigh 195lbs. 1 inch lowering with a Kouba link doesn't hit anything. Kouba makes product for consumption. They have certainly measured tolerances more than you.

Don't be such a pimp. It's a small world.

Scrawny? Normal American?

Originally Posted by Zuber

I've done several projects to lower 690E's. I've installed a Kouba link, but I checked it out carefully first. If you only lightly bottom the shock it won't hit the tank, that's when it hits the rubber bumper, this is called a soft bottom by KTM. BUT, if you do what KTM calls a hard bottom, that's when the rubber compresses all the way, the tire will hit the tank.

So, if you are a little scrawny waif with no passenger and no gear, then the link may work ok. If you are a normal American and want to use a link, then you'll need to add a spacer on the shock shaft to prevent bottoming. I made up a 1/4" washer out of plastic, split it and snapped it over the shaft. You can't raise the forks enough to really match the link, so you'll get 'chopper flop' handling.

The real way to lower this is to install internal spacers in the shock and forks. It's only a little more money than a normal service, which you should do at least every other year. The typical cost is about $450 all included. The suspension service only is about $380.

[The Letter J]

Originally Posted by Pantah

You are selling, not offering advice. I ride with gear and I weigh 195lbs. 1 inch lowering with a Kouba link doesn't hit anything. Kouba makes product for consumption. They have certainly measured tolerances more than you.

Don't be such a pimp. It's a small world.

Scrawny? Normal American?

While your post wasn't directed at me, I will tell you that I have measured and checked clearances (cycled suspension with spring removed from shock) and under "typical" circumstances the tire will not hit the tank... BUT it will full on bury itself into the tank (enough to momentarily lock the wheel) on a hard hit WITH A COMPLETELY STOCK BIKE. I'm not saying this theoretically, I'm telling you this with 100% certainty, the rub marks and grooves in the underside of my tank don't lie. Rider/gear weight has nothing to do with the range of motion of the rear suspension.

If you use a lowering link it still has the same wheel travel as stock but will now bottom the tire on the tank before the shock has run out of travel. That being said, most people who use a lowering link will still not have this problem but if the bike is pushed hard enough, it IS definately possible on the 690. To completely prevent this issue, the "right" way to lower the bike would be to limit the shock internally (basically this is how swapping from "R" to "E" components accomplishes it.) If you are not using all of your travel as it is, the link will probably work just fine for you.

Another way to lower your bike that extra little bit is to run lower profile tires such as 120/90/18 or 100/90/18 but don't expect to see more than a 1/2" and you end up losing width and sidewall in the process. You could even swap wheels entirely to smaller sizes (19/17 or 17/17) and run even shorter tires without losing width, this would be coupled better with a lowering link because the shorter tires are less likely to hit the tank when bottomed out... but this comes at a cost much greater than having your suspension done.

The OP specifically said that he did not want to use a lowering link and would prefer working "directly with springs and shocks." It sure seems like you are the one "pimping" stuff Pantah (kouba link), not Zuber.

I'll stick with my first reply of trading someone's "E" stuff for your "R" as being the most cost effective solution.

P.S. I feel like I just competed in the special olympics with that reply.