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Old 12-04-2012, 03:49 PM   #1
DDT Rider OP
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Location: Kanagawa, Japan
Oddometer: 473
Winter starting...rough

This is the first winter for the 2008 R1200GSA...I don't recall the 1150 starting this rough with the same oil...(20-50 Dino, bike has 21k kilometers on it)

It's only been down to 0 C here recently (32F) and the first few seconds of idle are incredibly rough. This happened twice in the last two outings, only in the first early morning start of the day...oil level correct, just changed recently.

I was going to wait until the next oil change to make the switch to synth...

I'm assuming this is an oil viscosity issue...shall I change out the oil to a thinner visc...

It's really not that cold here compared to many other folks on the forum...interested in hearing experience...
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:01 PM   #2
Pickup man
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I had 20W50 in the beginning of last winter. Same thing happened to me, the bike would cough and run rough at first.
Changed to 10 W40 synth and starts easy in 32 F and runs much better. I highly recommend you do the same for the winter.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:50 PM   #3
LeftCoastLefty
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Yeah, mine is a little rough starting when cold, but it smooths out in about 5 seconds. I don't fret it.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:13 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Pickup man View Post
I had 20W50 in the beginning of last winter. Same thing happened to me, the bike would cough and run rough at first.
Changed to 10 W40 synth and starts easy in 32 F and runs much better. I highly recommend you do the same for the winter.
Many thanks...sounds familiar...the thing is possessed for a few seconds...I guess I'll consider the swap to synth a bit sooner...
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:12 AM   #5
Zoef zoef
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You can also use 5W50, this is suitable for both summer and winter. The 5 for easy starting in the winter and the 50 to ensure oil is thick enough in the winter
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:20 AM   #6
Plane Dr
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I was just wondering the same thing. I was going to do valves and a sync. I hate to lose 1/3 of the expensive syn oil life!
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2003 Z1000 Nuclear Pumpkin (gone)
86 RG500WW (gone)

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Old 12-05-2012, 10:05 AM   #7
def
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Originally Posted by Plane Dr View Post
I was just wondering the same thing. I was going to do valves and a sync. I hate to lose 1/3 of the expensive syn oil life!
Why would you discard the oil?
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:07 AM   #8
Twilight Error
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plane Dr View Post
I was just wondering the same thing. I was going to do valves and a sync. I hate to lose 1/3 of the expensive syn oil life!
you'll lose maybe a cup of oil when you pull the valve covers. If you're very careful, you can catch that oil in a very clean container and put it back in.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:24 AM   #9
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT Rider View Post
This is the first winter for the 2008 R1200GSA...I don't recall the 1150 starting this rough with the same oil...(20-50 Dino, bike has 21k kilometers on it)

It's only been down to 0 C here recently (32F) and the first few seconds of idle are incredibly rough. This happened twice in the last two outings, only in the first early morning start of the day...oil level correct, just changed recently.

I was going to wait until the next oil change to make the switch to synth...

I'm assuming this is an oil viscosity issue...shall I change out the oil to a thinner visc...

It's really not that cold here compared to many other folks on the forum...interested in hearing experience...
I do not experience oil related rough running during winter cold starts. Its a fuel atomization issue. As the injectors begin working and the fuel pump develops full pressure, the rough running abates and all is well. You might try some fuel system conditioner to insure that the fuel system is nice and clean.

What oxygenate is in your fuel in Japan, MTBE or Ethanol? It makes a difference.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:26 AM   #10
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilight Error View Post
you'll lose maybe a cup of oil when you pull the valve covers. If you're very careful, you can catch that oil in a very clean container and put it back in.
A cup? Egaaaaads...I lose maybe 20 ml.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:45 AM   #11
duke944
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This has nothing to do with synthetic vs conventional, it's the weight of your oil as others have said. Mine is really hard to start and will idle terrible for a couple minutes with 20/50 at temps below 50, I run 10w40 in the winter months and put the 20/50 back in for the summer months - save it in a container and reuse depending how many miles are on it, mixing these weights is perfectly fine.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:57 AM   #12
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plane Dr View Post
I was just wondering the same thing. I was going to do valves and a sync. I hate to lose 1/3 of the expensive syn oil life!
I meant for changing to a different viscosity. For valves, just enough oil to have to clean up....

It's supposed to be below 0C here next week I'll see if the valve and throttle sync smoothes it out. If not then I'll go to different oil. Even at the price it isn't worth trying to store. Too big a PITA.

So while building a manometer I pulled the vacuum cap on the RHS. The side towards the bike was split top to bottom and part way round. New cap it runs a bunch smoother.
__________________
01/09 DRZ470SSW more bits than necesary
2005 R1200 GS AKA The Mothership
2003 Z1000 Nuclear Pumpkin (gone)
86 RG500WW (gone)

Bikes are like women. What you think you want, and what you want, change after the first ride.

Plane Dr screwed with this post 12-05-2012 at 05:21 PM
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