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Old 12-05-2012, 05:38 PM   #13831
Canadian FJR
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"The o-rings listed here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038 also fit the DR350's BST33."


Thanks for the reply, we'll be chatting.


HandKPhil - very nice DR, the mate of it is sitting in my garage.



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Old 12-05-2012, 05:52 PM   #13832
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Yep you right about the bearing swap and I believe the only difference between the rotors is that the SE model had 6 bolts and all dirt ones have 4 so keep what you have . I could be wrong , it has happened at least once before.

I have a 98 dirt model, it has the six bolt front rotor.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:34 PM   #13833
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
I have a 98 dirt model, it has the six bolt front rotor.
Ok that's 1 wrong for me !! Bugger it I'm going riding and not looking at this thread until tomorrow so I'm not wrong twice in one night !
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:33 PM   #13834
dirtyron
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walmart batterie

mine just died. need one fast. any walmart fits? 96 se
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:18 PM   #13835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandKPhil View Post
Hi All,

Just picked up a super-clean '99 SE a couple of days ago. Just over 1500 miles on it. This is my first DR350.

I'm a dyed-in-the-wool KLR250 guy. Love 'em so much I've got two of them. They'd be the perfect small bore dual-sport bike for me, if only they'd given them a little more power and an e-start - hence my desire to experience the DR350.

Due to weather conditions and a total lack of free time, I've only put one mile on this bike since I got it, and that was on a slippery, muddy road, in the pouring rain. My initial impression was that the bike is indeed a little peppier than my KLR250's. Also, the DR seems to have really comfortable ergonomics for me. Given my very brief test ride, it's not that I could tell how it's going to feel after an hour in the saddle, but the bike does seem to fit me perfectly so far. I like the taller suspension vs. the KLR250. The bike also seems more dirt-oriented than the KLR. Weight feels about the same.

Anyone else out there have any KLR250 experience that can make an informed comparison?
I find the two bikes very similar as far as intended purpose. A true 50/50 dual sport. The DR350 is just so much better in every way. Lighter, more power, better frame, suspension, brakes, durability, aftermarket support, etc.

I'm a current DR350 owner and a former KLR250 owner. I rode the snot out of one for 15k miles.



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Old 12-06-2012, 03:56 AM   #13836
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post

I also believe that all Suzuki did with the axle of the 99 was to use the same one that is in a whole shitload of RM's , lots of these parts cheap on fleabay .

I did an RM fork swap and was able to use my 99 axle and spacers .
Any idea of the date range for the RM axles?

I've got newer fork legs that I want to put on my 97.

They are presently mounted to my DR650 for testing, but I'd like to get the parts to mount them on the 350.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:36 AM   #13837
MrPulldown
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Based on this:

http://oem-cycle.com/KawasakiDR350.shtml

This is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-suzuki-...badc88&vxp=mtr

old Froks are 15mm axles. Newer ones are 17mm
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:57 PM   #13838
3uba296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Yep you right about the bearing swap and I believe the only difference between the rotors is that the SE model had 6 bolts and all dirt ones have 4 so keep what you have . I could be wrong , it has happened at least once before.

I also believe that all Suzuki did with the axle of the 99 was to use the same one that is in a whole shitload of RM's , lots of these parts cheap on fleabay .

I did an RM fork swap and was able to use my 99 axle and spacers .

Again I could be wrong but that would be twice in one night .
Not all Dirt have 4 bolts, 97-99 have six, same pattern as the RM´s. Also did RM250-92 fork swap to my DR350-97 and all DR stuff bolts right up to the forks, wheel, spacers, axle, caliper..



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Old 12-06-2012, 03:44 PM   #13839
RuggedExposure
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I ordered my Acerbis tank for $148. The DR350 tank came back in stock from the supplier and I decided to go with that instead of the xr250/400/650 tank.

I wouldn't have any issues fabbing up brackets for it, but I was concerned about leg room (I'm 6'2") and the added weight.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:02 PM   #13840
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian FJR View Post
In need of some O-rings. 1999 DR-350 SE, float needle and seat look great but the seat is real loose. I need a replacement O-ring for the seat and also one that hold the float frame in place. Where can I buy just the O-rings?

Canadian FJR
Local dealer will have them - just bought a set for a couple of dollars.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #13841
a1fa
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What's a fair price on 1993 DR350 with 6000 miles?
What's a good quiet exhaust for DR350?
Autodecompression mod?
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:31 PM   #13842
ctjohnson
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Just got some new fork boots in the mail. I have the manual but one thing is confusing me. I need to remove the front wheel(taking off the caliper, the odometer cable guide, brake hose holder, the 4 axle holder nuts, and the axle.) Then loosen the 4 clamp bolts to slide out the fork.

Questions:

Do I do one fork at a time?

How to ensure I re-install them straight?

Any other things to look out for or pretty straight forward?
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:57 AM   #13843
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
Just got some new fork boots in the mail. I have the manual but one thing is confusing me. I need to remove the front wheel(taking off the caliper, the odometer cable guide, brake hose holder, the 4 axle holder nuts, and the axle.) Then loosen the 4 clamp bolts to slide out the fork.

Questions:

Do I do one fork at a time?

How to ensure I re-install them straight?

Any other things to look out for or pretty straight forward?
No need to do one fork at a time. As long as the front end is supported (which it must be to remove the front wheel, etc), then you can do them both at the same time.

No need to worry about reinstalling them in the same position. The tubes are round and straight and the lowers can rotate around them.

This is a good time to change the fork oil (and the seals if they are leaking).

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:02 AM   #13844
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
What's a fair price on 1993 DR350 with 6000 miles?
What's a good quiet exhaust for DR350?
Autodecompression mod?
A fair price really depends on where you are located and what mods have already been done. I'd say a reasonable range would be anywhere from $1000 - $1500, some more if suspension or other highly desirable upgrades.

A good quiet exhaust is the original muffler. I love 'em.

I own a 1993 DR350 (dirt) and it has manual decompression. It is not difficult to use and I would never think of modifying it for auto decompression. On models that came with auto decompression, I doubt I would go to the trouble of modifying it for manual decompression.

After priming pumps, my DR350 with CV carb is a 1 - 2 kick starter. This is the same as when it was fitted with its original Pumper carb.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:16 AM   #13845
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
What's a fair price on 1993 DR350 with 6000 miles?
What's a good quiet exhaust for DR350?
Autodecompression mod?
Price for one like that here in CA would be $500-$1500, depending on condition.

Best quiet exhaust is the stock exhaust, modified by KienTech.

The only way to add auto-decompression is to switch heads with a 94 or newer DR. They also had a different kick start ratio on the 94+ models, they are a lot easier to start.
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