BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

[snooker]

Originally Posted by Ruis_Rider

My friends '00 or '01 (not sure...) KTM 640 LC4 has the 27mm nuts that works for the Xch. These nuts have a flange on them and the OD of this flange causes the rear axle nut to not sit against the same surface that the stock 26mm nut does. Because of this, I (as others have done) turned this flange down on a lathe for it to sit properly. I do not think this is necessary, but I didn't like it otherwise. It takes all of 2 minutes, provided you have access to a lathe!

The front 27mm nut sits fine as-is but I turned both front are rear nuts the same just so I never would need to keep them axle-specific.

Best part about this mod is also having the cool tire iron / wrench.

Here's some more help with the KTM rear axle nuts, part no. 50310099000 with pics including this one showing how the rear cap nut is turned down just a bit smaller.
But the real nugget on that link is the Scheffelmeir stainless steel wheel spacers

[tbarstow]

Originally Posted by Butters

You can get them from justgastanks.com, it's a Baja Designs tank for a KTM: http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=2830

Tim, it looks like you got a bit more volume out of your tank than I did. I wouldn't be surprised if you got a full 1.5 gallons additional. I'm told you can expand tanks over and over, so I am contemplating having another go at it. I still haven't polished off my first tank since I'm re-doing my mounting bracket, but it does appear that it will completely drain the auxiliary tank, making use of all the gas.

Although I tried to avoid it, I am also going to have to use my rack for mounting points. But with my HB racks, there is a plate that prevents me from mounting it as far back as you did. It looks like yours definitely clears your chain (not to mention it shouldn't drop that low.). I'm not sure if my new mount will totally clear my chainguard, but I think any contact isn't going to be an issue. I got more 1/4" stock yesterday from MMC, so I'm hoping I might get mine fabbed up today.

One question, do you have any concerns about not having a chainguard? I've debated taking mine off, but was a bit concerned about possible damage if I break a chain.

You can heat and form the plastic many times. I actually repeated the heating cycle twice, the second time is the photos with the aluminum plates clamped around the tank.

No, I'm not worried about not having a chain guard on my bike. If you break your chain, it's probably going through your engine case.

[Don't shoot me!!!]

I have the Kahedo seat "High" version (3 Cm higher)
Iv'e found it to be very comfy, even when it's not a customized seat for my weight etc.
It's buildt in the same shape as the OEM, and a vital thing for me, it's not TO soft
Overall i found it worth every penny, and i WILL be a returning customer to Mr Dorn on my next project.






And, as i'm forced to sell my X, everythings for sale
Keep in mind that the bike is allso up for sale, so i can't sell engine, wheels, frame etc...
PM me for parts....

[TobyG]

Originally Posted by snooker

Here's some more help with the KTM rear axle nuts, part no. 50310099000 with pics including this one showing how the rear cap nut is turned down just a bit smaller.
But the real nugget on that link is the Scheffelmeir stainless steel wheel spacers

FYI: Link isn't working (well...actually there is no URL behind the selectable text)

[Butters]

The KTM tank, version2. My initial attempt had the tank hitting the chainguard at full compression. Unlike TBarstow's, mine is still in line with the chain since I can't mount the tank canted outward due to the tight fit of the rack. (Edit: no clearance issues with the chainguard).

Here's how I mounted the KTM tank behind my Hepco Becker racks:


The top bracket is a flat piece of stock and a 1" spacer. It bolts to the bracket that came with the KTM tank and uses the bolts (longer) that hold the side racks to the tailrack:

The bottom bracket uses the two bolts that previously held the canister to the subframe. It bolts directly to the bracket that comes with the KTM tank:

Here's is the additional material on the HB racks that prevents the bottom of the tank to be moved outward. There is plenty of material that could be removed, but I am trying to avoid that. Also, it may not be clear from the pics, but that thing is wedged in very tight between the rack and the rear fender.

Here is a pic from the rear showing the alignment of the tank and the chainguard:


I will edit this post once I verify the tank won't contact the chainguard and can post the total range I got from it.

Edit #1: No issues with the chainguard. In fact, it doesn't even contact it. Now to figure out the range . . .

Edit #2: The low fuel light came on at 167 miles, but I only averaged 52mpg for that tankful. So I'm thinking 175 to reserve will be pretty typical. It also looks like my odometer is only off 3-4% (whereas the speedo is off about 8%). I think an actual 200 miles is possible as is. In fact, I think it is likely, but those last 5 or 10 miles would have me a little nervous.

[snooker]

Originally Posted by TobyG

FYI: Link isn't working (well...actually there is no URL behind the selectable text)

Sorry, must be all the molten plastic fumes. :) OK look again I fixed it above. Or here: LINKY

[tbarstow]

Originally Posted by Butters

Here's is the additional material on the HB racks that prevents the bottom of the tank to be moved outward. There is plenty of material that could be removed, but I am trying to avoid that. Also, it may not be clear from the pics, but that thing is wedged in very tight between the rack and the rear fender.

Here is a pic from the rear showing the alignment of the tank and the chainguard:


I will edit this post once I verify the tank won't contact the chainguard and can post the total range I got from it.

Hmmmm....the directions for my tank were for a Yamaha YZ400/426, so I didn't get any bracketry with it.

I would try taking off the rear bodywork (white plastic) and trying to move the KTM tank further forward to miss the rear flange on the HB rack. I wouldn't hesitate to then chop a piece of the white bodywork off near the main gas filler to accomodate the new tank.

I would then do the boiling water treatment again, clamping the tank between 2 flat pieces and the rack tubes. This will get you a less bulged everywhere shape, plus you can bend the forward end of the tank a bit for positioning.

To get the lower right side of the tank to bulge out, I used a heat gun on it while the tank was full of boiling water and under pressure.

[SCflyer]

Gents,
Little electrical help if someone could. I'm finally getting the finals done on my rally ish build and all the lights worked until about 3 days ago. It's only been ridden down the road a few times and always kept in a garage. Hi beam - HID (Touratech kit) won't work. Neither will the little marker light underneath the fairing though that shouldn't be related...

The hi beam indicator light works but when I turn the switch to brite, the low side goes out but no hi beam light or indicator. All the wiring looks okay, fuses good, battery is good, signals, horn, brake lights work. Obvious thing would be maybe that part of the switch decided to go out?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

[Butters]

Originally Posted by tbarstow

Hmmmm....the directions for my tank were for a Yamaha YZ400/426, so I didn't get any bracketry with it.

I would try taking off the rear bodywork (white plastic) and trying to move the KTM tank further forward to miss the rear flange on the HB rack. I wouldn't hesitate to then chop a piece of the white bodywork off near the main gas filler to accomodate the new tank.

I would then do the boiling water treatment again, clamping the tank between 2 flat pieces and the rack tubes. This will get you a less bulged everywhere shape, plus you can bend the forward end of the tank a bit for positioning.

To get the lower right side of the tank to bulge out, I used a heat gun on it while the tank was full of boiling water and under pressure.

Did you get your tank from justgastanks? Those front and rear brackets as well as some extraneous hardware came with mine.

I really don't want to cut the plastics. Not sure why, I don't plan to sell the bike, but I'd much prefer to cut the aftermarket rack. I'm fairly certain it will be fine as is, but the alternative will be to cant the tank out at the bottom. But I would agree the benefits of the added range would outweigh minor modifications.

I did use a heat gun on the wheel recess area of the tank. I was just pretty conservative when expanding and didn't account for how much it would shrink back once the pressure is released.

[tbarstow]

Originally Posted by SCflyer

Gents,
Little electrical help if someone could. I'm finally getting the finals done on my rally ish build and all the lights worked until about 3 days ago. It's only been ridden down the road a few times and always kept in a garage. Hi beam - HID (Touratech kit) won't work. Neither will the little marker light underneath the fairing though that shouldn't be related...

The hi beam indicator light works but when I turn the switch to brite, the low side goes out but no hi beam light or indicator. All the wiring looks okay, fuses good, battery is good, signals, horn, brake lights work. Obvious thing would be maybe that part of the switch decided to go out?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

I'm going to assume that you are using the TT Rally Fairing.

The little marker light under the fairing is what the relay that keeps the low beam on is wired to, so you need to figure out why that isn't lit up. Does the HID ballast for the high beam make any sound when you switch it on? It sounds like you aren't getting any power to it. Check all of your connections and see if the relays are working.

[pampaX]

Originally Posted by Butters

You can get them from justgastanks.com, it's a Baja Designs tank for a KTM: http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=2830

Thanks

[SCflyer]

Originally Posted by tbarstow

I'm going to assume that you are using the TT Rally Fairing.

The little marker light under the fairing is what the relay that keeps the low beam on is wired to, so you need to figure out why that isn't lit up. Does the HID ballast for the high beam make any sound when you switch it on? It sounds like you aren't getting any power to it. Check all of your connections and see if the relays are working.

It is (fairing) and will do.

[bloochdog]

Originally Posted by snooker

Here's some more help with the KTM rear axle nuts, part no. 50310099000 with pics including this one showing how the rear cap nut is turned down just a bit smaller.
But the real nugget on that link is the Scheffelmeir stainless steel wheel spacers

I have not been on this thread in a while... been meaning to solve the axle nut POA . thanks for the tip. I ordered four last night! two for me and two for banshee... Thanks for doing the leg work!

[snooker]

Originally Posted by bloochdog

I have not been on this thread in a while... been meaning to solve the axle nut POA . thanks for the tip. I ordered four last night! two for me and two for banshee... Thanks for doing the leg work!

I just pulled together somebody else's solution and documented it in one place. Payin' it forward a little.

[SCflyer]

Goof on my part the first time...I forgot about the fuses under the seat. I was looking at the ones in my AP2...the 7.5amp fuse was blown, replaced with a spare 15 and now the marker light works, indicator light works and I hear the relay click over when I switch to highbeam. But the HID will still not come on, started it and tried again, still didn't work. I'll be checking things out with it but any othe suggestions would be appreciated.